Last big day out in Cusco .... for 2012

What a day - first the blessing of the brewery ... oh and the update on that.... The extra that was added to the pot was a symbolic 'fox tail' and a porcelain cat with an upright waving paw was purchased for the brewery - for good fortune.  This venture should really do well!!!!

Zac, Lex ... and Duncan managed to make another brew before going to the bar to connect the keg.

Familiar look of concentration!!!!

We were joined in Norton's (after making our way down the street 'bar to bar') by a number of Zac and Milka's friends that we have come to know over here.  Great bunch of people!!!  We really appreciate their friendship and the way they have welcomed us into their community.  We feel very blessed.  

BIG thanks also to Zac and Milka - not many people would have in-laws staying with them for 8 months!!!!!  But it's been an amazing opportunity to appreciate and enjoy their families, country, culture and lifestyle and this fascinating place!!!  Love you heaps!!!

We will be back!

The brewery has been blessed - Quechan style

How do you write about something you don't understand????

This morning Zac and Milka organised a 'blessing ceremony' for the brewery ... for suerte - or good luck.
It was reminiscent of the Spring ceremony we attended a few years ago where offerings were placed in a hole in the ground for Pachamama - Mother Earth - who presides over the planting and sowing of seeds as well as harvest time.

In this ceremony offerings were placed in a ceramic bowl which remains in the brewery facing the doorway.  When I left this morning there was still one more item to be included, but still to be purchased, to complete the ritual.

Again I say - how can I write about something I don't understand.  Tell it like I saw it.  Although it was a Quechan ceremony, there were obvious Catholic gestures included - such a mix of cultures and religion!!!

Milka and I met Senor Pancho near the house and took him up to the brewery were production was underway.  He spread out a poncho on the floor and set out all his items .... so many things all individually wrapped or in small plastic bags.

 Items included many types of grains, powders, herbs (I think), fibres, ribbons (in Cusco and Peru colours), small plastic figures, money, flowers, wine, biscuits.... oh and coca leaves.

To begin - the smoking stuff was lit - like I said, I don't know or understand what everything was.  Coca leaves were sorted and only perfectly shaped leaves were selected.  Wine was opened and splashed around the floor.  The small ceramic bowl was lined with floral paper ... and then items were specifically selected to be blessed and then gently placed into the bowl.

The bottom was lined with coca leaves - Senor Pancho had selected groups of three - Quechan words were spoken before each set was carefully positioned in the bottom of the bowl.  His actions were very deliberate.  Nothing random about it.  There seemed to be a particular order to the way items were selected and positioned.

The bowl was full but more items were added including some small dried FISH - possibly anchovies!!!

Eventually the bowl was full!! Some sparkly gold thread was wound around everything, then a wad of cotton wool and the lid was tied on with ribbon.  

More Quechan words spoken ...a bell and small shaker moved over the top of the offering.  I'm sure it all means something..

Eventually it was handed to Zac and placed in a lofty position facing towards the door.

I think there was more to come - this had already taken an hour. So watch for an update .... not sure what it includes, but I know they place alpaca foetus under the foundations of a new house ..... so I can't wait to see what else they have!!!  

In discussion we discovered that Senor Pancho lies near Ausengate - the high snow covered mountain that we admire from the pedestrian walkway over Calle Cultura.  I so want to go there..... hopefully next time.  Every encounter brings new opportunities.  This one is no different - I think Zac and Milka have an invitation to visit the Senor!!!

This morning I had planned to go for a haircut .... but it was more important to record this.  Guess the haircut will have to wait until we get back to Sydney.  Sure to find a hairdresser there, bet it will cost more than my last haircut - S/7  even cheaper than my S/10 manicure!!!!

So many more pictures of the brewery and the blessing ceremony in this slideshow.

Shopping .. last days

Have left quite a bit of shopping until the last.  That way I have a good idea of what I want - certainly looked around plenty!!!!  There's so much here - but I really don't NEED anything for myself.  Some things are really cheap.  Where else can you buy 3 pairs of earrings for S/5 or around $2???  Yes I have some of those!

There's just some lovely experiences...

I bought some of these lovely passport covers -

Bargained to two-thirds of the price.  Before we even said we wanted any, she had dropped the price by S/3 ... which is the price I previously paid.  So we asked for lower price for quantity, and she readily accepted.  It's not always that easy, and we don't always do it.  But the interesting thing was that as we left the store she handed us both a 'regalo' - gift.  Two pens with Peruvian characters on the top.  Amazing!!!

I also bought some of these wrist bands.  So colourful and CHEAP  .. S/1 each.  Same prices as 5 years ago.  Have seen similar ones on sale in France and Australia - but not even for $1.  So I bought 10..... was given an extra one as well.  When the items were packaged and money exchanged, The lady gave me a BIG hug .... Gracias.  Amazing.  She sells lots of hand made jewellery, makes a lot there herself, and I've only ever bought these cheap wrist bands.

I'm starting to wonder if these people recognise me .... or do they know this is my last shopping spree.  We are finally going home???  

Not all shopping experiences are as pleasant.  There are LOTS of traders walking the streets trying to sell paintings, musical instruments, dolls, hats, scarves, jumpers, photos....... etc

Many of these traders are young women carrying bags of goods as well as a baby on their back.  They are trying to make a living, but they really don't give up.  NO apparently means 'maybe'.  Carrying bags of last minute shopping we were an obvious target ... 'bags' means 'hey these people are buying!!'  A young lady selling beanies was very persistent.  I made a mistake of showing slight interest - after all they are really nice.... and she was dropping her price with each NO, but were were soon confronted with about 6 others trying to get a look in with their wares.  Lex was sooooo unimpressed.  'Not polite' words were spoken but she followed us for another block before giving up.  I really would have bought one .... but I had really spent everything I was carrying that day.

Oh well .... one more shopping day to go.  Wonder what treasures that may bring.

The numbers don't add up!!!

down to our last 2 weeks here - for the second time.  Time to air this topic which has been going round and round in my head for the past 8 months.

The numbers don't add up.....

Money numbers that is.  On one hand, things are relatively cheap (inexpensive) here, but some things are quite expensive.

Obviously our Aussie Dollars go a lot further here - $1 = S/2.60 approximately - so it works in our favour.

I've been told that when travelling, you should try to work in the local currency, and not try to convert prices back to your own currency.  Fair enough, but you need to sometime to see how prices compare.

Some things are about equivalent $1 = S/1

For instance - a very good meal in a good restaurant costs 30-50 soles. Dollars = Soles probably fairly similar to Australia.  And of course you can get good meals a lot cheaper than that.  Great nachos at Paddy's Pub are about S/16 - and that's generally enough for Lex and I.  We also eat at a number of 'Menu' lunch places where you can get a 3 course meal and drink for S/10  Don't think we can do that in Australia even for $10

A large cerveza (620ml bottle of beer) in a bar costs around S/10.  Cider, that I like is around S/20

But groceries vary greatly.... and I realise I am quite out of touch with prices of things back home .... and am probably in for a shock when I go shopping.

How do these compare???
Tub of butter (500g)  S/9.30
Large box of cornflakes - S/10
1L long life milk - S/3
Ham S/35 per kilo - There's a lot of cheaper style pizza ham ...
mince  S/13 a kilo
Chicken breast meat is about S/14 per kilo
sausages are even more expensive  S/50 per kilo  chorizo sausages  More expensive than steak
Small tub of Philly cream cheese S/9.50
2L coca cola S/5.50
small yoghurt S/1

Families here are very good at stretching meals - with rice, beans, lentils, potatoes, pasta etc.  

We buy 'pan' (bread rolls) fresh - sometimes twice daily, and we can get 4 ciabatta rolls for S/1  delicious too!

So not all grocery prices seem cheap ... thinking $=S/  Anything that is imported is obviously more expensive than locally produced items.  Pasta sauces are starting to appear in the supermarket - around S/10 a jar.  Local Peruvian style sauces are not so expensive.

BUT the one price that still amazes me is the price of bus and taxi fares.

We catch a local bus - 70c will get you anywhere in Cusco - out of town is a bit more.  Obviously buses can be very crowded, standing room only, and this can be difficult for anyone taller than a Peruvian in a 'combi', which most buses are.  And of course, you need to be careful of pick pockets.

A taxi from town centre to our area usually costs around S/3 - sometimes more because we are 'gringos' or it's raining, or late at night, or the driver doesn't particularly want to go that way.  Varies.

So any way I figure it transport costs are a bargain...  Can't imagine a $3 taxi ride anywhere in OZ.

Because fares are so cheap, we take taxis often - so I guess they get their money in the end.  It's not as if fuel prices are all that cheap either.  Prices vary for different blends, but around S/15 per gallon - too much maths for this retired brain!!!

Of course I'm only looking at how far our $AUD go here - Any consideration on prices etc needs to also take into account local wages.  From what I understand and see around us, there's a growing middle class in Peru .... and there are some very wealthy people as well.  In addition, there's a large number of very poor people.  I understand that it is possible to live very cheaply here - especially if you have a place to live and don't have to pay rent.  It is possible to get a 2 or 3 course 'menu' lunch for S/2.50 - I probably wouldn't want to eat it.

Wages are generally NOT high by our standards.  I read that minimum wage in Peru has been increased this year to S/750 per month, and that the average wage in Lima is approximately S/1200 per month.

I find myself constantly comparing prices - considering  $ = S/ strategy, but I am still confused.  All I can be certain of is that our Aussie dollars go further here, and while we enjoying eating out often here in Peru, I think that will not be the case back home in OZ!!  So better live it up in our last 2 weeks here this year!!!

Birthdays are a BIG deal in Peru

It was Milka's birthday yesterday.  

Time to celebrate and it starts early!!!  Like midnight.  Having experienced the family wake up at midnight for Lex's birthday, we were ready.... with a cake. Very easily obtained - there are cake shops everywhere.  Took less than a minute for the girl to write Feliz Cumpleanos Milka on it.  Two alarms set, just in case.  Woke up OK, but biggest problem was trying to turn them off without my glasses.  Failed miserably, as both continued to go off.

We woke them up alright.... singing Happy Birthday in English and Spanish, but we weren't the only ones awake at that time to wish the birthday girl Happy Birthday - her mum also rang her.  We didn't bother with cake-eating at that hour, thankfully, but did it all again in the morning....

 

It's a Peruvian custom - in fact I've been told twice that it's Peruvian LAW, that you get time off on your birthday.  Milka got half a day off - others say it's a full day.  Either way, I wonder if that would catch on back home? Half day at work seems to be a good idea ... oh and another cake!!!

So we went out to lunch to celebrate, since we're already flexible with our time ... Yeah!  

Zac looked a little concerned about the wine opening .....

 

LOL!!!!

A delicious lunch for the third celebration for the day....  then home (for me) for a rest before a night out celebrating with friends.

AND.... another cake!!!!  Birtday cakes here in Peru only have ONE candle, regardless of age.  And it's customary for the birthday person to take the first bite out of the cake ......

Milka did it in style!!!

Happy Birthday Milka 

- we enjoyed all the celebrations - but I think there is more to come on Saturday evening!!!!

Moving day .... into the brewery.

After weeks of preparation, it was finally time to move all Zac's beer making gear out of the house and into the new brewery premises, and you couldn't get the smile off Zac's face!!!!

It all happened amazingly quickly!!!!  Lex had worked throughout the morning to move things from the back courtyard and store cupboard to the front courtyard.  Zac would arrive around 2pm with a truck..... Rodolfo, Milka's cousin who is also staying here at the moment arrived just before 2pm - in time for the move.

So in a matter of minutes equipment was moved from the front yard to the waiting truck - well all but the last couple of items which would have to go in a taxi with Zac and I.  Memories came flooding back of  similar event - moving from their first flat to a new one on our last trip over here - 1 truck with the overflow in a taxi!

And just as amazingly, by the time we arrived in the taxi, the truck had been unloaded and everything was in the brewery - not in place - just IN!!!

Zac's grin didn't fade as he set to work putting all the gear where he wanted it, setting up the filter and pump on the tanks and getting the water filtration started.

There are still some things to dispose of from the construction stage - rubbish is not so easy to get rid of (unless of course you just want to dump it anywhere like so many people here do  - NOT), and 22 bags of yeso (plaster), a result of tradesman over-ordering!

There are still things to 'tweak' - cold room is built but not yet operational, filtration still not working as Zac wants, but it's all there and while he is brewing there's time to potter.

 Gear that he's been waiting on also arrived .... Friday was a GOOD day! 

Some of the ingredients!

Saturday was his first brew day - he's still loving it.

Saturday was his first brew day - he's still loving it. 

Wayki Brewing Company .....

Time for inspections, accreditation, licencing and whatever else is necessary, next week!!!  Watch for Wayki beer in Norton's Bar on the plaza in Cusco!!!!  Woohoo!!!!