Off to see the birds

Day 2 was an early start to join a tour to the Colca Canyon with an overnight stay

The road out of Arequipa passes through high snow-capped peaks to extremely dry – moonscape-like landscape.

Really hard to describe these scenes. The tour leader pointed out different community areas on the outskirts of this large city of over 1 million people, with 15% percent unemployment, large populations moving to the cities in the hope of better life ... and growing slums.

Out of Arequipa, we passed the antiplano, where we stopped several times to see vicuna, alpaca... and even something like a rabbit. Higest point on the journey was 4900m .... cold, but even at this vista point, several traders were out to sell their wares.


After going up for most of the morning we then descended into the fertile Colca Valley - where, after travelling on some rough roads we arrived as a small village of 750 people, and stopped at a magnificent hotel - what a treat in what is otherwise very poor areas with most dwellings made of rock or mud brick. Not only was the place spectacular, the buffet lunch - barbequed chicken and alpaca steaks along with a huge range of other dishes, followed by passionfruit mousse and cactus fruit mousse ... was soooo delicious. Evening buffet was just as stunning - we are definitely NOT going hungry. BTW - full 3 course buffet cost 22 soles ... less than $10.

Road Trip - Day 1

First day was a long bus trip from Cusco to Arequipa so tickets were bought for the deluxe, comfy bus leaving at 9am and travelling direct, instead of the 6am bus which is cheaper and makes frequent stops.

Short taxi ride to the bus station for 9 of us... only to find that the bus had broken down and a different bus would make the trip as far as Hulaycha, where we'd be able to board the deluxe bus. Not happy Jan! After much venting by Zac (after all this was his honeymoon trip) and some money refunded we were loaded onto the alternative bus. Interesting to see how careful he is to ensure that luggage is securely loaded together and preferably away from the general cargo/luggage area which would be accessed numerous times throughout the trip ... and where there was a distinct smell of fish from a previous cargo. Not for the first time that I have been thankful for the skill and determination of our tour leader .... Senor Tour Leader as Milka likes to call him. We'd been travelling for hours, when Milka asked, “Senor Tour Leader, what time is the lunch?” Lunch would have been served on the deluxe bus ... but not on this one. It was about 3 or 4pm when we pulled in to Hulyacha to change buses ... but there was little time to get anything other than packets of biscuits from nearby traders. The bus was waiting for us ... and why not – the 9 of us outnumbered the other passengers.

Back to that trip – we passed through amazing scenery. You don't have to go farout of Cusco to find small farming communities, mud brick houses, people in traditional clothing tending small numbers of animals, small festival groups dancing and singing, Inka ruins and vistas of snow capped mountains. Schools are interesting – often quite large, and students mostly very well dressed in uniforms.

The bus stopped several times to pick up passengers ... the first stop was just outside the bus station gates, where apparently cheaper tickets can be obtained. On one occasion 2 women carrying huge bundles wrapped in the usual bright cloth boarded the bus in the middle of nowhere. They struggled up to the top deck, and just as I was wondering how they were going to get it down the aisle with their load, they heaved it up onto a platform and started selling stuff from it. We didn't understand any of the language, but one went up and down the bus taking orders while the other proceeded to pull the bundle apart enough to dig into and chop servings of roasted lamb ribs off, shove them into a plastic bag along with a couple of potatoes. Our camera wasn't quick enough to capture this chopping action, sadly. When all customers had been served, they hopped off the bus, not doubt waiting for another bus in the opposite direction to take them back again.

No – we didn't have lamb and potatoes for lunch ... just biscuits.

Hulayaca has to be seen to be believed. Apparently it's not far from Puno and the Bolivian border ... and is a mecca for imported, black market goods. Biscuits we bought were made in Bolivia .... so for 2 soles, we got 1 packet wafer cream biscuits and a bottle of soft drink. It's also a dry, dustbowl with so much construction, unfinished buildings and litter. Don't stop there unless you have to.

The new bus was spacious – only 3 seats across, good recliners and footrests ... but really bad movies. Japanese or Chinese films with Spanish subtitles...

Arrived at Arequipa late – but really looking forward to checking out the sites I missed on our last visit here – no problems with 'altitude sickness' this time.

Peruvian Wedding

It´s Monday morning here ... and I am sneaking a little time on the computer (hoping that none of the other 11 people here tonight urgently need to use the computer because I MUST write about the wedding today). Why the rush .... well this morning we are off on the honeymoon with the bride and groom... unusual - Yes, but so is everything here in Peru. Their planned honeymoon had to be postponed due to Visa issues, so this trip is al alternative ... and we´re not here for very long so, we´re joining them. In fact 9 of us will be heading off together this morning in less than one hour.

The fantastic wedding day started off with breakfast in an amazing surroundings .... Royal Inka Hotel in the Pisac Valley, surrounded by high mountains, Inca terraces and ruins, quaint mud brick houses and gum trees!!!! Breakfast was individually cooked omelettes ... with ingredients of your choice. Chef was a real showman as well.

After breakfast the procession of people in the hotel´s salon began with 2 family friends taking over the salon and for makeup and hair styling. ... I was first in line. Interesting ... with no common communication - all good.

Getting ready was a communial affair as people moved between the ´grande´rooms - sharing whatever they had, and other guests arriving, beging introduced etc. The boys looked spectacular.... I was very proud of both of them. The eyes were starting to leak already ... and in my head I could hear Milka saying to me ...´no woman no cry!´. I was trying very hard, but it didn´t work.

Party and celebration mode was already in full swing ... but Peru time was also working overtime. Things just don´t always go to plan. A bus organised to pick up many of the guests in Cusco didn´t arrive on time with some guests then arranging taxis so they would arrive in time. Some, including members of the official wedding party didn´t make it before the ceremony began ... but made it by the end - all good. They were there to sign paperwork and take part in photo sessions.

The bride and groom just beamed with happiness and emotions all round were overflowing. The service, in a very small 16th century church was in both Spanish and English ... and was very emotional. Milka did a reading in Spanish and Zac did one in English. The priest included the Australian visitors throughout the service, even commenting on the great distance we all travelled to be here etc. There was much standing and sitting sitting -no room for kneeling, and when the ceremony was over, many photos were taken IN the church - so much shuffling took place as various groups took their place beside the bride and groom ... with this amazing church background.

Many photos were taken in and around the hotle grounds, before Zac and Milka took off to have more photos taken around Pisac surrounds. Guests drifted off to the reception area to await the arrival of the bride and groom. When they arrived, they were introduced, champagne flowed and the wedding dance began - Zac and Milka danced together and then family members were introduced to dance with them.

Can´t remember the sequence of events - there was lots of champagne, wine and Zac´s beers (several different brews), good food, loud music and MUCH dancing. Somewhere in the middle of it all there was another ceremony - a civil service, cutting of the cake, boquet throwing, Zac taking off Milka´s garter, which was then trhown for the guys to catch, something else with a lot of ribbons hanging out of a large glass, and much more dancing. Pervuians certainly can dance!!! The music continued non-stop until about 9pm - not bad for a wedding that took place at 12.30pm. Some Aussie guests were even seen to be getting dance lessons throughout the night!

It was a great party - which continued the next day with a cricket game, golf, swimming, local markets(for some) and some crazy 4-wheel bike racing.

Sorry - have to go - look for more photos whenever I can. Love to all.

Wedding day in Pisac

It´s the morning after here in Pisac.... the wedding was another AMAZING experience ... so much to write about, but unfortunately that will have to wait until we are somewhere else with better internet connection.

It was a HUGE day with lots of special moments... starting with breakfast... , 2 wedding ceremonies - a church one in both English and Spanish as well as a civil ceremony later in the afternoon, after much merry-making. Hope to have more details for all later today or tonight.

Pisac

Friday night ... and we are out at Pisac for the wedding ... that in itself is another adventure. Zac and Milka left early in the day to travel out to meet up with the priest. The rest of us travelled out after lunch. We were expecting a bus capable of seating 18 people .... a 15 seater arrived (for 17 of us), bags were thrown up on to the roof, 15 cases of wine were stowed on the roof or under seats, people were loaded on along with the wedding attire, numerous suit bags etc,... and 5 kegs of beer (brewed by Zac ) and the gas tank. What a load... then off along another winding mountain road and down into the spectacular valley.

Royal Inka Hotel is quite a sight. Our rooms are massive, the church is tiny, and the place has loads of interesting features. Today we cleaned the church ... ready for the wedding. Will try to get the pics up`loaded soon.

Familia grande

The family is growing and the house expands.

We came home from our Machu Picchu trip to find the house had grown to 13 people. Friday and people came and went and the place took on the air of a hair salon. Such a busy place.

Family members arrive from OZ

Sorry about the delay in posting ... for those who are waiting for updates and pictures. Life has been hectic, but the house has been moreso.

Lac, Katrina, Mike and Lou arrived last Monday, and Mitch arrived on Tuesday. Lac and Kat were extremely tired after almost 40 hours in transit .... shattered, but still on their feet, so we kept them going until night. Since their arrival we have visited numerous markets with everyone getting right into the spirit of bargaining, much to the disgust and disadvantage of the local traders. Everyone will have a little more to carry home.

We also had a family lunch at Senor Carbon - the meat restaurant mentioned previously. We all enjoyed that too. Didn´t give the new-comers long to settle into the high altitude conditions before tripping off to Machu Picchu. Our package included pickup in the city at 5.30 - so for those of us staying with Zac, it was a 4.30am wakeup and a taxi pickup into the city. Unfortunately Katrina was really ill - but keen to go, so we headed off with a bucket and several liners.... As Zac had predicted she came good as we descended from altitude into the lower heights of Machu Picchu .... and was able to enjoy the sites of this magnificent place.

In the city we were met by a guide, taken to a waiting bus for the 2 hour ride through snow capped mountains to Ollantaytambo, then onto the Vista Dome train .... train with glass panels in the roof to enable great views of the mountainous scenery. Spectacular ... and so much better than the Backpackers Train that we went on last time. Liek planes, we were served meals ... and on the home journey the staff provided entertainment - local dancing as well as a fashion parade of alpaca garments.

In Agues Callientes we were met by another guide, taken to our hotels and then back to the bus station for the zigzag ride up to Machu Picchu - with a 3 hour tour from another local guide followed by time to wander arounder by ourselves. This place is so impressive ... amazing amazing - even if you´ve seen it before. It´s simply breath-taking .. pictures /video don´t do it justice. Even the surrounding High mountains are spectacular. I love Agues Callientes ... village with a railway as the main street and pathways up the side of the mountain. The village has grown since we were here ... and there is so much construction taking place ... all rambling with no apparent plan.

We stayed the night and had time the following day to wander around, see a demonstration of musical instruments an, and scout around the markets before the trip home.

Sunday lunch with the family

Another surreal experience... It´s almost 4.30 pm, and lunch is almost ready... but so much has gone on before. Milka´s family are all here for Sunday lunch - Milka´s mum and dad, who have come from Lima with a grandaughter, Ximena, Milka´s sister, Mercy and brother in law, Rod (who is Australian) and 3 kids, and one of the bridesmaids from Lima, Isabella plus us Australians. We´ve already had delicious scallops in the shells, brought from Lima by Miguel, Milka´s dad, and cooked under the griller with cheese, garlic butter and lime.

Next we´re having a lamb roast, bought from the local market this morning, with gravy Australian style, courtesy of the Gravox brought from Oz. It´s been a riot - a mix of English and Spanish with bilinguals working hard! They have been so welcoming to us foreigners, it´s been wonderful! Plenty of drinks - Zac´s homebrew and a couple of nice wines, and we haven´t started lunch yet.

Many ´salud´s happening - a great day, on top of of the buck´s party - a bit of the hair of the dog! The boys woke up a bit slowly, but are in fine form now. Prior to the visitors arriving, we were banished to the bedrooms so that Milka and her mum could do the cleaning, which happens quite regularly. Everyone does exactly what Milka says - no doubt who wears the pants in this family! This is Jill blogging because Judy has a bit of a glow up and has difficulty with the typing - I put it down to emotional overload!

The house is filling up

Deciding to opt out of the hen's night, Jill and I came home from a successful shopping experience to meet Milka's dad. By successful, I mean we successfully managed to get from the Artisans Market where some purchases were bargained for. to a supermarket to buy household necessities, and home again. A simple task you might think – but think again. We managed to hail a taxi (stick your hand out and hope the car that stops is a taxi), tell the driver that you want to go to the 'Mega Mart' and how much will that cost– and he then comes back with a string of Spanish (I presume he's asking me which Mega Mart ... I know of at least 2 here) ... all I can say is 'No entiendo' and hope that we arrive at a Mega mart. The cost of 3 soles is now the least of our concerns ... but we are dropped off at a mega mart which I am familiar with, successfully make our purchases, and then get another taxi to home ... 'A Kennedy A, enfrente Inca Sur' .... see I have memorized our address, but that's the first time I have had to give the directions. I count that as 'successful'!

By this stage we are congratulating ourselves on our progress with Spanish... now for another experience – sharing a meal with Milka's mum, dad and niece, none of whom speak very much English, and no translators. Milka understands quite a bit of English, but sometimes has difficulty finding the English words to express what she wants to say. On these occasions she usually refers to Zac, or calls him on the phone if he's not around, and passes the phone to us for him to explain what she is trying to say. Tonight, Jill and I are on our own with Gladys, Miguel and Ximena ..... and a dictionary!!!!

We got the message that Milka's family think very highly of Zac ... opressio – esteem.

The house is filling up – lucky we're no longer in the small flat! There's 10 of us here tonight.

Lex said he met a young lady tonight, danced with her, and when it was time for home she got into the taxi with them - he wondered where they were dropping her off.... to discover she's staying here with us. Jeff tells a different story ... about a girl he met last night and brought home in a taxi...

Meet Isabelle, one of Milka's bridesmaids. Zac, Milka and Isabelle are on the floor tonight .... and although we feel somewhat uncomfortable, they wouldn't have it any other way. The more the merrier!!

A different shopping experience

(No photos for this ....)

We set off with Milka ... warned that we would be going into an area where it wasn't safe to carry bags, cameras, etc and where pick-pockets might frequent. Get the picture .... 4 of us carrying nothing, minus our jewellery, money stashed in internal pockets or hiding places.

We'd previously driven through this commercial area (nothing like the commercial areas we are used to) but today, Saturday it was alive. The railway line which runs through the centre of the street was filled with people selling livestock... puppies, kittens, ducks, chooks.... A side-street was a sea of tarps all the way up the hill – a double row of stalls up the middle of the street and footpaths lined with more stalls ... all crowded with bargain hunters. All the spaces in buildings lining this street were also full of stalls – alley ways, courtyards, unfinished buildings ... every available space. One space we went into was such a building ... up 3 flights of concrete steps – open floors of an unfinished building where dozens of stall holders had laid out their wares on tarps or blankets.

Some of the stock was new, but much of it was second hand ... clothing, curtains, sheets, apparently from North America, Other sections were tools, old computer parts (motherboards .... crapppp!!!) even second hand traditional clothing – woven shawls with big holes in them.

We traipsed along .... Milka leading the way, Jill and I trying to keep up .. and Gladys bringing up the rear ... often falling behind because she stopped to check out a bargain. After a while it became apparent we were on a mission to get items for Milka's 'costume' for her hen's night - a Pimps and Prostitutes party. The shopping expedition for boots for Jill and I was to come later. Milka, tried on coats, leather jackets, searched for bags etc before setting off for another area where other items were added to the costume collection and boots were purchased ... for 50 soles!

Whist we were shopping with Milka, Jeff and Lex were assigned the task of looking after Zac during his bucks' event – can't call it a party as it was an all day event, starting with breakfast during the Rugby Tri-Nations match, followed by go-kart racing, then paintball, then off to Senor Carbon's for lunch (all you can eat meat), then a 'show' involving flesh, and finally to meet up with the girls event for a night of dancing, drinking and merrymaking.

Pleased to note that all made it home safely, although somewhat bruised and sore, but generally in better condition than a previous night out.

Shopping with Gladys

Gladys is a super shopper (aka bargainer). On our big day out, Gladys bought a jumper at one of the road-side stalls. Not only did she get the price down, she also managed to get a 'regale' (gift) at the end of the transaction ... because it was her birthday the next day. Really wish I could understand the transaction which took place – but watching the faces and listening to the inflections of the voices was an experience in itself.

Another occasion we went to get some jewellery to go with Milka's wedding dress. Here again, she got the price down and walked out with a small ring (not sure if it was silver like the rest of the stuff in the store or not .. but quite possibly) ... which could either go on the wedding cake or be a present for Gladisita's birthday.

Even our boots purchase was negotiated downwards by Gladys...

Morning with Milka

Plan was for haircuts and shopping for boots. But every event here turns out to be so much more. I've seen hair dressers in the local market stalls – just a chair with a mirror, some hair dressing shop fronts that I haven't ventured into, but today we found something else. Like many of the places we've been taken to this one was through an alley, up some stairs, ring a buzzer to be let in .... and a busy salon opens up. While Jill and I both got hair cuts ( for 25 soles) Gladys got a colour and cut and Milka got a French manicure!!!

Shopping for boots would have to wait for another opportunity – lunch arrangements take priority. This was another one of those places you had to know was there – we wouldn't have found it on our own – very close to town, around the back behind several other shops and eateries. This one was packed with locals. Chicherone ... not sure of the spelling, but it was described as a 'deep-fried pork' place. The option was large (11 soles) or small plate (7 soles), and of course the usual cervesa grande...

We've certainly been treated to some amazing eating experiences – all terrific!

Big day out...

Zac managed to arrange hire of a car and driver for us (for $60 US) so that we could visit some of the outlying tourist sites. Bargain, I reckon. We left home at 9am and didn't get back until 6.30pm and he had the cost of a flat tyre as well.

The scenery is spectacular – high snow capped mountains, terraced hillsides, deep valleys, local villages as well as Inca ruins and salt terraces. We tried to capture the scenery – with video as well as stills, but it is so immense - you just have to see it for yourself.

The township of Chinchero has a village atmosphere with many market stalls both in the narrow streets as well as in the town square, but then the enormity of it opens up. Inca terraces spread out around the hillside below the village. We also watched some women processing potatoes - stamping on them to squeeze the moisture out of them, peeling the skins off them, turning them ... these become dehydrated potatoes often used in cooking stews or soups.

The Morays HUGE... terraced areas ... miles from anywhere ... where the Incas experimented with different climatic conditions for agriculture. Apparently there are several degrees of temperature between the various levels. Amazing, amazing

Moras – Salt Terraces – we drove more miles on rocky dirt roads, often quite narrow, up steep sections where the driver constantly tooted his horn to alert on-coming traffic, which could be taxis, cars or big tourist buses!!!

We approached this site from a high point, and the sight is breath-taking – the whole side of the valley is sectioned into terraces. We stopped to take in the scene ... and stopped again shortly after to change a tyre before driving down to the entrance to the terraces. From this point we were able to walk along the narrow top of the salt terraces, see how the water comes out of the mountain and is channeled into the various areas, and then down a road/track which is where mountain bike groups also venture to meet our car at the bottom. Interestingly this is also where Zac came off a mountain bike some weeks ago.

Next stop, Ollyatatambo. This is a really interesting village with much original Incan construction as well as Inca construction and terracing on the steep mountain sides (read this as MANY steps up). We've been here before, and since it was quite late by this time, Jill and Jeff took a quick look at the ruins while the rest of us opted for a late lunch. Two hour drive home with spectacular scenery topped off a brilliant day out.

More than we expected ... everytime we go out

Some days ago we took off to catch a local bus to Tambomachay ... with a plan to check out those ruins and then walk back towards Cusco, visiting 3 more Inca sites along the way.

Incredibly, we caught a taxi (that´s not the incredible part) and managed to communicate to the driver that we wanted to get to the bus station in some street (can´t remember the name). He obviously didn´t really understand our destination ... but said something from which Lex recognised ´Pisac´so said´Si´. We had previously caught a taxi from the bus station with Zac and Milka ... to Pisac, but both Lex and I wondered if we were going to end up at the bus station, or be taken all the way to Pisac by this driver - a problem if one hasn´t previously negotiated a price. However we were taken to the bus station .. - a yard with a couple of buses in it. As we were wondering how we go about getting a ticket (hadn´t seen anything resembling a ticket office), a guy popped out of the gate sprouting several names ... including Tambomachay, which we recognised. WOW what luck, but our luck continued, we got on the bus, picked out a couple of seats (that weren´t broken) and settled in .. to later discover that our tickets had seat numbers on them ... and we were in the right seats. Double WOW as the bus was beyond FULL. With this luck we were in for a great day ... for a princely sum of less than 10 sol.

To be continued.....

Quick catchup .... full day in a nutshell ...

We had 4 sites to visit for the day ... starting at Tambomachay ... and visiting the others as we walked back to Cusco. Our intention was to self guide our way through these... even that changed early in the day ... and it was well worth it.

Tambomachay was a small site which we wandered around by ourselves - Jeff ventured up the hills to check out the farming areas.

Across the road, past some ladies sitting spinning and weaving (in the middle of nowhere) to the next site Pukapukara ... where we met a Peruvian man who offered to show us around this site ... for a price - donation I think he said. He told us he was a trained/qualified guide and this was his day off. We accepted his offer and certainly had an informed (we hope) description of the site, after which he said visitors usually pay 10 soles each for the guided tour but we could pay what we thought it was worth... It was only a small site so we gave him 5 each.

After further discussion we enlisted him to continue the day with us ... also for a price. Instead of walking to the next site (1 hour walk) he suggested we take a local bus for 60 centimos. Another interesting adventure... local buses fill up rather quickly... should say over-fill.

The day continued with lots of unexpected adventures - we certainly saw the sites we had planned but saw aspects that we hadn´t known about - especially at Sachsayhuaman - where Lex and I had been before. Previously we´d seen the huge construction area, but on the other side there are tunnels where mummies had been found as well as the huge rock slides .... and much more.

We were also taken to a textile and silver shop and factory - got a tour of that ... also the place where Jill bought a jacket and Lex bought me a silver bracelet. Not far from the factory we stopped for a strawberry maize beer ... different - but also a place we wouldn´t have ventured into.

Our guide turned out to be enjoyable and informative company - but he was also dead keen to show us a restaurant ... not a tourist place, but a place where loacls eat...´very cheap´.... well NOT but Peruvian standards - but it was a special place , way up on the hill and overlooking Cusco, and the food was good. We had expected things that happened - like when we went to the shops, he would probably get a cut, and possibly even the restaurant ... where he disappeared when the bill arrived - but it was still a great day out.

Meeting the family...

We arrived home early evening to meet Milka´s mum and her neice. Neither Milka or Zac were home ... so here were were with people we hadn´t previously met ... and with whom we shared no common language. Another amazing experience ... but we got along really well, and by the time Zac arrived home much later we had shared family photos ... Jill´s, introductions of family members ... and even learnt a bit more Spanish.

Getting behind

3 days since I last blogged and now it´s out of control. Will upload as many pics as I can .... and add some highlights.

We often seem to start off with only a brief plan... maybe even start somewhere, but we always end up with more than expected. Last Monday we met Zac for lunch ... another place we wouldn

´t ever have found, but another delight. After that we wandered around the city... and stumbled across a courtyard full of HUGE papier mache models. Apparently this was an art school. We

may even have seen some of these being paraded around the streets... not sure how they get them through the arch and out of the courtyard.

Then we wandered down to San Pedro Market ... a local market area - been here before with Zac and Milka, and Lex wanted to treat Jeff to a local ´special fruit juice´... made with everything on the stand, including milk, fruit, carrots, honey, black beer.......

Jill and I explored a bit while they sat there and ´talked´to their juice lady. We even managed to purchase some bananas and some palta -avocados. Some parts of the market were not so enticing ... the offal section.

Another adventure....

From our vantage spot in La Plaza (well from the balcony of Norton´s bar), we noticed a number of tents and a huge crowd up on the hill above the plaza near San Christobel church. Just had to investigate..... I managed to talk Zac into taking Jill and I up the hill in a taxi to see what happening while Lex and Jeff remained in Nortons.

What an adventure.

We got up the hill to find a massive crowd of people gathered around a statue- looked like an Inca ruler, with other banners, statues and crowds up ahead. Close by the statue were numerous men clad in traditional costumes ... many of them drinking from 1.25L bottles of cervesa, carried in crates on ther backs by young women.

After we pushed our way past the group, we realised that the procession was getting ready to move on after their rest break. Forty or so men heaved the massive statue up into the air, and a similar group of boys heaved the wooden stand out from underneath it. What a sight ..... and quite a worrying one actually, because each group strained under the weight, staggered around the narrow road.... moved metres backwards, and sideways before being pushed back into the centre of the road by other groups.... and eventually moving forwards up the steep incline.

The crowd pushed forward to keep out of danger .... but we thought we might be better off to keep to the edge until it passed.... Then we took the stairs up to the next level.... trying to avoid the stream of liquid flowing down the steps (not water).

Up on the next level, the crowd was even greater - we could only manage to get a short way into the gathering. All the tents were food or drink tents and crowds of people were sitting around eating and drinking - often passing around and sharing the one bottle of beer and the one plastic cup. Trays of food included roast chickens and cuy (guinea pig).

We waited around until the statues, bands, and procession continued into the church before attempting to fight our way back through the crowd, down the hill again, leaving the locals to their merry-making. It was a privilege to be there to see just a small part of the event.

Each day is filled with new experiences - today was extra special.

Cerviche for lunch

Today Zac took us to a Cerviche Restaurant for lunch - raw fish marinated in lemon or lime juice. It was actually much better than I expected. The restaurant was quite unique - a wall of swords made from the swords of sword fish ....quite stunning.

It was quite a large restaurant, in a suburban area (not the tourist areas) ... and very busy. Customers waiting for our table.

It is good to have Zac with us to interpret the menu and order for us - much more adventurous that way.

We had this HUGE platter of cerviche, seafood rice and some crispy fried seafood ..... we made a dent in it but it was too much for 5 of us!

Markets ... and more markets

There are so many market stalls here in Cusco - all selling much the same thing. But with some family members arriving here for the first time we just had to visit a few. needles to say, someone walked out with a new alpaca jumper.

We tried on hats, bargained for purses and bags and bought a selection of finger puppets. All part of the Cusco experience and great fun.

Jill also managed to buy a piece of tapestry - from a young lady who spoke quite good English and told us that the fleece came from her grandfather´s alpacas.

Met a man with a dog today.

Took a walk up Gringo Alley - found a great shop with Alpaca knitwear -all hand done. More expensive than the ´Maybe Alpaca´ jumpers sold in most of the markets, but cheaper than the ones sold in the top class shops.

More up, up, up as we had a bit of time to fill in before meeting Zac and Milka for lunch in Paddy´s Bar.

Still feel the effects of altitude, so I stopped for a break near the top of the stairs, and looked up to see a man standing on a small concrete platform on the side of a hill ... behind a high wall. He was telling me to take it easy and rest ... in English.

He invited us into his work place to take in the view, so we headed up the last few steps, along the road beside an adobe wall to a door which popped open. In we went - joining him on this small

concrete platform along with his 2 dogs and lots of bits and pieces.

He explained that he farmed this hillside - the only agricultural land in the city of Cusco. It appeared that he also recycled whatever he could. He pointed out several points of interest visible from this spectacular vantage point, and was happy to answer any questions we had for him - although he was somewhat deaf, so Lex had to write the questions down for him. He could even read the questions written in English.

Catholic churches dominate the skyline and he gave us a bit of the history - how churches were built using the stone from the Inca constructions ... not good! No skyscrapers evident in this skyline - how precious is that!

We left him... not sure if we should be offering him some money (which so often the case when people offer to let you take pictures of them, their work or surroundings), or if that would be an insult.

Visited a great museum before lunch with Zac and Milka... and just because we are on holidays and we can, we stayed on a bit (extended lunch).... before stopping in at a few markets on our way home.

Topped off another special day in Cusco. Gotta love this place.