There's a prison near where we are staying in Lima and when they asked if I wanted to see the main gate to the prison ... I thought ... a gate is a gate ... do I want to see a gate.... not really. But apparently this is worth seeing ... so off we went.
The corner of the street leading up to the gate was filled with vendor's stalls and I innocently (or ignorantly) said...'Oh .. another market.' and Milka said, 'Similar'. We wandered along through the stalls selling food items , drinks, fruit, hot food as well as skirts and sandals. Milka explained that the skirts and sandals are for sale as well as for rent ... by women visiting the jail as they aren't allowed in wearing jeans or closed-in shoes. What an innocent, protected life I lead.
As we got further along the rows of stalls the crowd was thicker ... and the girls whispered amongst themselves and directed me onto the street . .. away, apparently from the long queue that was waiting to enter the prison for visiting day. Today it was women's visiting day, and the area was filled with women and children laden with bags of food and personal items to be taken into the prison. Obviously, given my previous faux pas with photos, we kept the camera well hidden – so no photos of the prison gate ... or the crowds outside
Monday, September 14, 2009
Long bus trip .... and more
One day when I'm back home I plan to check out the road from Cusco to Lima via Ica on Google Earth .... I'm sure it's as picturesque as other trips over the mountains that we've taken, but my experience was somewhat different.
Milka and I took a night bus ... so we were never going to see very much. The bus was very comfortable ...only 3 seats across (2 + 1) – almost horizontal recline, blanket and pillow supplied, good meals – we even got earphones and toothbrushes. But the road was very twisty!!! We seemed to be coming down the mountain FOREVER!!!! I awoke from 'bus-sleep' early dawn, and through slightly open curtains could see some of the landscape. We were winding our way across the top of a very high plain. I couldn't believe that we were still soooo high!! As we continued our torturous descent, my stomach began the journey up, and we still had 3-4 more hours to go. We'd been on several bus trips in recent weeks ... but nothing affected me like this one – it must be an amazing road .... one I will have to see on Google Earth. Our return to Cusco will be a flight!!!!
We got off the bus in Ica, then took a local bus to Paracas (about 50km). Ica is in a valley in what looks like a desert. It's amazing to see crops and particularly grapes growing in pure sand.
Milka has a block of land near Paracas – an new area of land has been released ... and for a small amount of money, blocks can be obtained, some improvements are required and someone needs to live there .... but there are no services!! Eventually, when more people live in the area, services will be provided. Not quite the way development happens in our world ... but also VERY different amounts of money involved. So Milka's mum lives out there part of the time ... to help meet the requirements. It's a way for Milka to eventually have land in her name, something that is not as common as home.
The area could be described as ... sandy beach area (apparently 8km from the coast), views of sand dunes, rich soil (can grow anything ... when you get rid of the salt ... and if you can provide enough water) ... there is water to the area .... 1 tap for all.
I think she is a special lady .... don't think I could live out there. We were picked up from the bus by Milka's uncle who also lives out there with his wife. His car has to be seen to be believed ... even older and more dilapidated than Cusco taxis ... station wagon, but didn't need to open the back for our bags ... they went in the front where the passenger seat used to be. He filled the oil and put a bit of fuel in the tank, and we were off.... LOUDLY ... at a walking pace. About 4-6kms, we turned off the bitumen and took a sandy track for 20-25 minutes.
The 'house' is basic one room ... but from others I've seen, this is 'grande' ... solid timber (not woven straw). The also have a few other common structures – kitchen as well as animal enclosures.
In years to come .... this place may well be something else!!!
Late in the afternoon, we went back to the highway and waited for a bus to Lima, 245kms, which took more than 4 hours.
As a local bus, it made frequent stops to pick up and drop off passengers as well as numerous vendors who hop on the bus and travel between stops .... hawking things like drinks, sandwiches, lollies, fruit, jellies etc.
Milka and I took a night bus ... so we were never going to see very much. The bus was very comfortable ...only 3 seats across (2 + 1) – almost horizontal recline, blanket and pillow supplied, good meals – we even got earphones and toothbrushes. But the road was very twisty!!! We seemed to be coming down the mountain FOREVER!!!! I awoke from 'bus-sleep' early dawn, and through slightly open curtains could see some of the landscape. We were winding our way across the top of a very high plain. I couldn't believe that we were still soooo high!! As we continued our torturous descent, my stomach began the journey up, and we still had 3-4 more hours to go. We'd been on several bus trips in recent weeks ... but nothing affected me like this one – it must be an amazing road .... one I will have to see on Google Earth. Our return to Cusco will be a flight!!!!
We got off the bus in Ica, then took a local bus to Paracas (about 50km). Ica is in a valley in what looks like a desert. It's amazing to see crops and particularly grapes growing in pure sand.
Milka has a block of land near Paracas – an new area of land has been released ... and for a small amount of money, blocks can be obtained, some improvements are required and someone needs to live there .... but there are no services!! Eventually, when more people live in the area, services will be provided. Not quite the way development happens in our world ... but also VERY different amounts of money involved. So Milka's mum lives out there part of the time ... to help meet the requirements. It's a way for Milka to eventually have land in her name, something that is not as common as home.
The area could be described as ... sandy beach area (apparently 8km from the coast), views of sand dunes, rich soil (can grow anything ... when you get rid of the salt ... and if you can provide enough water) ... there is water to the area .... 1 tap for all.
 |
| From Peru 2 - 2009 |
I think she is a special lady .... don't think I could live out there. We were picked up from the bus by Milka's uncle who also lives out there with his wife. His car has to be seen to be believed ... even older and more dilapidated than Cusco taxis ... station wagon, but didn't need to open the back for our bags ... they went in the front where the passenger seat used to be. He filled the oil and put a bit of fuel in the tank, and we were off.... LOUDLY ... at a walking pace. About 4-6kms, we turned off the bitumen and took a sandy track for 20-25 minutes.
The 'house' is basic one room ... but from others I've seen, this is 'grande' ... solid timber (not woven straw). The also have a few other common structures – kitchen as well as animal enclosures.
In years to come .... this place may well be something else!!!
Late in the afternoon, we went back to the highway and waited for a bus to Lima, 245kms, which took more than 4 hours.
As a local bus, it made frequent stops to pick up and drop off passengers as well as numerous vendors who hop on the bus and travel between stops .... hawking things like drinks, sandwiches, lollies, fruit, jellies etc.
Saturday, September 12, 2009
In Lima with my daughter in law
We are still in Lima with Milka's grande familia ... and she's doing an amazing job translating for me. Everything .... EVERYTHING is very different!!! Will try to record some of these experiences, but photos will have to wait.
We're at the airport this morning to see Jeff and Jill before they return to OZ ... and since our laptop is sooo small, we have it with us ... hence this brief message.
We're at the airport this morning to see Jeff and Jill before they return to OZ ... and since our laptop is sooo small, we have it with us ... hence this brief message.
Monday, September 07, 2009
Festival day is Cusco
Collected a September calendar from Tourist Information office in Cusco - lists all the festivals for the month- and discovered that there was a festival in Cusco Saturday for World Tourism Day. Then we discovered that Milka was participating in the parade with her Tourism school. Awesome ... and so that we didn't miss a good vantage spot, we started reasonably early with breakfast at Jack's ... anyone who's been to Cusco will know about Jacks... and luck was on our side and we didn't have to queue at the door.
Got a good vantage spot around 11am - people at the tourist office thought the parade started at 10am ... Milka was told to be there around 1pm... so we weren't taking any chances. It was the hottest day yet in SA... and we were in full sun, on the top of the stand in the plaza... awesome.
People watching was very interesting .... lots of hat sellers (yes we bought more hats), ice blocks, drinks, food as well as the usual tourist items.
Around 11.30 the first of the groups entered the plaza. Apparently they had assembled and marched from a long way up the hill through several other plazas before reaching Plaza de Aramas. The whole parade was very colourful and at times quite loud. A fantastic spectacle as various groups danced their way through the streets. Zac joined us and got frequent updates from Milka ... we're about 30 mins away ... Not quite. About 4pm, Milka's school group entered the plaza ... they were awesome. Two groups dresses in either orange or green predominately led the group and danced back and forth in front of us, then another group in assorted costumes representing various cultural groups and areas carried colourful strips of material representing the Cusco flag. Milka was dressed in a costume from the jungle where she was born. Lucky it was a warm day ... but I'm sure many others sweltered in teir thick, dark, multi;lyered costumes.
BTW ... today I am taking a bus with Milk ... we're going to Lima for a few days. I also have a Spanish dictionary with me ... as Lex is staying here with Zac. Should be fun. Jeff and Jill got an early start this morning - they have hired a car and are taking a road trip to visit some alpaca places. Another adventure...
Got a good vantage spot around 11am - people at the tourist office thought the parade started at 10am ... Milka was told to be there around 1pm... so we weren't taking any chances. It was the hottest day yet in SA... and we were in full sun, on the top of the stand in the plaza... awesome.
People watching was very interesting .... lots of hat sellers (yes we bought more hats), ice blocks, drinks, food as well as the usual tourist items.
Around 11.30 the first of the groups entered the plaza. Apparently they had assembled and marched from a long way up the hill through several other plazas before reaching Plaza de Aramas. The whole parade was very colourful and at times quite loud. A fantastic spectacle as various groups danced their way through the streets. Zac joined us and got frequent updates from Milka ... we're about 30 mins away ... Not quite. About 4pm, Milka's school group entered the plaza ... they were awesome. Two groups dresses in either orange or green predominately led the group and danced back and forth in front of us, then another group in assorted costumes representing various cultural groups and areas carried colourful strips of material representing the Cusco flag. Milka was dressed in a costume from the jungle where she was born. Lucky it was a warm day ... but I'm sure many others sweltered in teir thick, dark, multi;lyered costumes.
BTW ... today I am taking a bus with Milk ... we're going to Lima for a few days. I also have a Spanish dictionary with me ... as Lex is staying here with Zac. Should be fun. Jeff and Jill got an early start this morning - they have hired a car and are taking a road trip to visit some alpaca places. Another adventure...
Friday, September 04, 2009
We made it home
Our 5 hour bus ride back to Cusco turned out to be an 8 hour ride. It seems our new tour guide did OK, although there was one occasion where the words 'stick with us, we'll show you a good time' were echoing in our ears. Not far out of Puno, we struck some roadworks. The side-track was 'cross-country' ... across the flat. There was congestion as trucks, buses and cars from both directions pushed forward. Our driver obviously took the wrong path .... through very slippery mud from previous night's rain, and we started to slide ... sideways!!!
A couple of guys on the roadside smiled and lay back on the bank to watch the spectacle ....I thought we could be stuck for a while. Bus boys hopped out and started gathering stones to put under the back wheels and just ahead of us the path was blocked by a truck. The scene didn't look promising, but before too long we were inching our way forward and onto firmer ground.... and on our way again.
The bus stopped at Juliaca around 10.30am, and we considered buying something from the ladies lined up outside the bus station fence, with arms stretched through the fence holding their wares.... plastic bags of coloured liquid or buns, empanadas or similar .... we couldn't be sure. At an earlier stop, women had been selling plastic bags of potatoes and cheese or trout, potatoes and rice. We were thinking ... 5 hours ... our water should be enough. More than 6 hours on the road, at a control point stop, more bags of unknown food were proffered to bus patrons. From other scenes around that area, we think the item might have been pork crackling.
From Puno to Cusco, we passed through high flat plains beside Lake Titikaka, though valleys surrounded by high peaks, over ranges between he valleys – there's always something interesting to see. In the fertile valleys, intensive agriculture is mostly done by hand, and on the higher plains cattle, sheep or alpacas graze, usually tended by a herder. Mud brick is the most common building material .. and in some areas newly made bricks are laid out too dry.
Streets of towns we passed though around 1pm were filled with children coming out of school – kids all dressed in school uniforms, often making purchases from local street vendors on their way. We've been told on more than one occasion (and in more than one country) that school starts at 7.30 and goes until 1pm when the kids come home ... that would give 5 hrs of tuition with half hour break. Kids have to take all their books home, because the classrooms are used by other classes during the afternoon. Interesting...
We finished our day with lunch at Two Nations restaurant (run by an Aussie) in Cusco (around 6pm). Promised Aussie Burgers will have to wait for another day ... as the rest of the menu was too enticing.
Note to self.... don't believe a lady in the boot when she tells you the bus trip from Puno to Cusco takes 5 hours .... it's definitely more like 8 hours!!!
A couple of guys on the roadside smiled and lay back on the bank to watch the spectacle ....I thought we could be stuck for a while. Bus boys hopped out and started gathering stones to put under the back wheels and just ahead of us the path was blocked by a truck. The scene didn't look promising, but before too long we were inching our way forward and onto firmer ground.... and on our way again.
The bus stopped at Juliaca around 10.30am, and we considered buying something from the ladies lined up outside the bus station fence, with arms stretched through the fence holding their wares.... plastic bags of coloured liquid or buns, empanadas or similar .... we couldn't be sure. At an earlier stop, women had been selling plastic bags of potatoes and cheese or trout, potatoes and rice. We were thinking ... 5 hours ... our water should be enough. More than 6 hours on the road, at a control point stop, more bags of unknown food were proffered to bus patrons. From other scenes around that area, we think the item might have been pork crackling.
From Puno to Cusco, we passed through high flat plains beside Lake Titikaka, though valleys surrounded by high peaks, over ranges between he valleys – there's always something interesting to see. In the fertile valleys, intensive agriculture is mostly done by hand, and on the higher plains cattle, sheep or alpacas graze, usually tended by a herder. Mud brick is the most common building material .. and in some areas newly made bricks are laid out too dry.
Streets of towns we passed though around 1pm were filled with children coming out of school – kids all dressed in school uniforms, often making purchases from local street vendors on their way. We've been told on more than one occasion (and in more than one country) that school starts at 7.30 and goes until 1pm when the kids come home ... that would give 5 hrs of tuition with half hour break. Kids have to take all their books home, because the classrooms are used by other classes during the afternoon. Interesting...
We finished our day with lunch at Two Nations restaurant (run by an Aussie) in Cusco (around 6pm). Promised Aussie Burgers will have to wait for another day ... as the rest of the menu was too enticing.
Note to self.... don't believe a lady in the boot when she tells you the bus trip from Puno to Cusco takes 5 hours .... it's definitely more like 8 hours!!!
Wednesday, September 02, 2009
A day on the lake
Lake Titikaka is one of those special places. It's a HUGE lake shared between Peru and Bolivia - the floating islands of Uros and Taquile Is are both on the Peruvian side. Our trip visited both these areas - the floating islands are not far from Puno, but Taquile Is is some distance.
Tourism is their main source of income. There are so many boats making these trips and the island people are well prepared for visitors. Boats visit different islands in the Uros group - we were met by the family, treated to an explanation of how the islands are built and how they live and trade, before being invited to look around their small island and into their homes. One man (can't remember his name ... only his son's name - Frank) invited us into his one room home - half of it was taken up with a bed. He explained that the house is small because it is easier to warm a small room.
Meanwhile the women are outside with their handicrafts are spread out for sale. Earlier they asked us not to give their children money as it sets up a bad precedent where they will expect it in future - best way to help is to buy some of their handicrafts. We did.
We also took a ride in one of their reed boats ... to another island. Boats last for 2 years .. and interestingly they contain 2000 plastic soft drink bottles to give the flotation. Great recycling...
Next on to Taquille island ... brisk uphill walk to our lunch venue. Long tables were set up near a group of family homes ... not in the township. We were treated to loacl music dancing ... some of the group even got to join in the dancing - not bad at altitude (says Jill), before a lunch of quinoua soup followed by grilled trout, rice and papas fritas. DELICIOUS.
Then up to the top of the village .... more steep uphill, and only a short time to look around and make some purchases. Suffice to say here, Peruvians are extremely reluctant to take American dollars which have even the slightest rip, tear or mark!!!
Long boat ride home ...and the wind and swell made it even longer, I think.
Back to Cusco today.....
Tourism is their main source of income. There are so many boats making these trips and the island people are well prepared for visitors. Boats visit different islands in the Uros group - we were met by the family, treated to an explanation of how the islands are built and how they live and trade, before being invited to look around their small island and into their homes. One man (can't remember his name ... only his son's name - Frank) invited us into his one room home - half of it was taken up with a bed. He explained that the house is small because it is easier to warm a small room.
Meanwhile the women are outside with their handicrafts are spread out for sale. Earlier they asked us not to give their children money as it sets up a bad precedent where they will expect it in future - best way to help is to buy some of their handicrafts. We did.
We also took a ride in one of their reed boats ... to another island. Boats last for 2 years .. and interestingly they contain 2000 plastic soft drink bottles to give the flotation. Great recycling...
Next on to Taquille island ... brisk uphill walk to our lunch venue. Long tables were set up near a group of family homes ... not in the township. We were treated to loacl music dancing ... some of the group even got to join in the dancing - not bad at altitude (says Jill), before a lunch of quinoua soup followed by grilled trout, rice and papas fritas. DELICIOUS.
Then up to the top of the village .... more steep uphill, and only a short time to look around and make some purchases. Suffice to say here, Peruvians are extremely reluctant to take American dollars which have even the slightest rip, tear or mark!!!
Long boat ride home ...and the wind and swell made it even longer, I think.
Back to Cusco today.....
Nancy in the boot ... turns up a gem.
Remember the lady who met us at the bus station (touting) - well she met us at the hotel yesterday morning to escort us to the port for our day trip on Lake Titikaka ... once again travelling in the boot. She's arranged our bus tickets for today, so she will meet us this morning for our trip to the bus station and will most likely travel in to boot again ... along with our growing luggage - can't be comfortable.
BUT ... the boat trip she organised for us yesterday turned up a real find. Jeff (the alpaca breeder) has been trying to find out about a particular alpaca place between Puno and Cusco (won't even try to spell it) ... and whilst talking to our guide for the day ... who had to say everything twice ... in Spanish and English.. we discovered she comes from a small (very small village) with the same name. Amazing - we had searched the internet for info ... but nothing.
We got talking with her about her village ... which she only visits once a year - in December and January during the rainy season so she can help her family on the farm. To get there she travels part way by bus and then she has to take a donkey or a llama the rest of the way.
She and Jeff also talked about alpacas ... it seems the shear their alpacas by hand ...not with shears but using tin from sardine tins. Life is certainly different over here.
BUT ... the boat trip she organised for us yesterday turned up a real find. Jeff (the alpaca breeder) has been trying to find out about a particular alpaca place between Puno and Cusco (won't even try to spell it) ... and whilst talking to our guide for the day ... who had to say everything twice ... in Spanish and English.. we discovered she comes from a small (very small village) with the same name. Amazing - we had searched the internet for info ... but nothing.
We got talking with her about her village ... which she only visits once a year - in December and January during the rainy season so she can help her family on the farm. To get there she travels part way by bus and then she has to take a donkey or a llama the rest of the way.
She and Jeff also talked about alpacas ... it seems the shear their alpacas by hand ...not with shears but using tin from sardine tins. Life is certainly different over here.
Tuesday, September 01, 2009
We made it to Puno
I'm sure you're all waiting to hear that news!!!!
We even managed a taxi ride ... with an extra person ... to a hotel.... negotiated a better price ... after we asked about wifi from our room (we are feeling starved without ready internet access) and then after we settled in to our room ... moved to ones with wifi.
The extra passenger.... well as we came through Puno bus station we were approached by a woman - thought she may have been touting for hotels etc, and it seems she was. First told us how much a taxi would cost to town, asked about hotels and suggested some but we had Zac's recommendation in mind. She escorted us out to our taxi and told him where we wanted to go, helped us pile our bags into the back (we now have an extra bag so the count was 2 big bags, 2 medium bags, and 3 back packs), and then she squeezed in as well. Must have been very uncomfortable.
We booked a tour with her to the islands tomorrow.... so she got something for her trouble.
We even managed a taxi ride ... with an extra person ... to a hotel.... negotiated a better price ... after we asked about wifi from our room (we are feeling starved without ready internet access) and then after we settled in to our room ... moved to ones with wifi.
The extra passenger.... well as we came through Puno bus station we were approached by a woman - thought she may have been touting for hotels etc, and it seems she was. First told us how much a taxi would cost to town, asked about hotels and suggested some but we had Zac's recommendation in mind. She escorted us out to our taxi and told him where we wanted to go, helped us pile our bags into the back (we now have an extra bag so the count was 2 big bags, 2 medium bags, and 3 back packs), and then she squeezed in as well. Must have been very uncomfortable.
We booked a tour with her to the islands tomorrow.... so she got something for her trouble.
“Stick with us. We'll show you a good time.”
The above statement came from Jeff and Lex ... as we headed out of La Paz this morning.
They had bought tickets the previous day ... to Puno, and returned feeling very chuffed with their achievements!! Bus going to Puno (tick), Good bus (Cama ... should be lay back seats) (tick) Good seats – not next to the toilet (tick), Good price – 240 Bolivianos for 4 of us ... that's less than $10 each (tick) and a reasonable start time at the station at 8am (tick).
Was this the bus we would be travelling on?? No comment.....
 |
| From Peru 2 - 2009 |
Well we were at the station anxiously waiting to see this bus .... short delay, and we were on. Promised 'GOOD' seats didn't turn out so good. Yes they were front row, which on a double decker would mean great views, but front row on a single level bus is behind the driver's cabin which is secluded by curtains ... so we only had limited side views.
No problem ... most of the valley was covered in haze this morning so the view wasn't that good anyway. El Alto is the bustling satellite city at the top of the valley .... and it was very busy. Stopped for a fuel stop somewhere along El Alto .... no sooner got going then we did a U turn and entered the fuel stop on the opposite side of the road. Weren't there long and we took off again ... back towards La Paz one hour after leaving it. No explanation ... one of the passengers came forward and tapped on the conductor's door ... and although we couldn't understand the exchange, we gathered from what was said by her and other passengers we were headed back to La Paz.
Well not quite ... another turn and we realised we were headed for Uyuni .... remember the nightmare night bus ride??? None of us were keen to do that again. After 4 stops to try to refuel this bus .... many back streets and U-turns, we ended up back at the second fuel stop we'd made .... and waited in line. It was now more than 2 hours since leaving La Paz, and the conductor came through with a bag of empanadas and plastic cups. Naturally we took what was offered ... but the looks on our faces were priceless when he produced a thermos container that looked more like a fuel can and poured steamy yellow liquid into each of the cups.
There was a long pause as we each waited to see who would taste the liquid first. It turned out to be very sweet tea. We were fit to burst by this stage ... and Jeff says “Stick with us. Didn't we say we'd show you a good time!” Jeff even added a nip of ron (rum) to his to make it more palatable ... not!
And I could hear Zac whispering in my ear ....'That's Bolivia!'
Great to get news of Dea and Jothy's baby at this stage of our journey. Congratulations to all, and thanks for getting the news to us.
Eventually we were on our way ... and managed the border crossing, quite uneventfully. We even caught up with the Tucan bus which was leaving La Paz about the same time and were including the tour of Tiwinaku. The border was sooo much less chaotic than last time wee were here ... not a market day, so queues were short and our entry to Peru went smoothly.
Yes Milka ... we can do it. We did it!
Check back later for photos .....
Highlights from La paz
We had a day in La Paz on our own – but we managed to fill it up with shopping. Things in Bolivia are very cheap ... particularly if you earn your money in Au dollars and spend it in Bolivianos. Thee exchange rate of Bolivianos to US$ is about 7 to 1. So a meal costing around 45 Bs would be less than $8 US so a bit more in Aussie money.
Also seems ridiculous to be bargaining the price of items down ... such as reducing thee price of a bag down from 45Bs to 40 Bs ... but we do it. Item is still less than $10
Streets in certain areas of the city are huge market areas – some selling tourist type items, but we also went through a huge area of local markets selling clothing, food, shoes as well as grog. Stalls selling similar items or services are all grouped together. Some traders have shops but many, many more are set up on stands in the street. At night, everything gets packed away or wrapped up using plastic tarps.
Many street traders are selling drinks or juice. They usually have a few glasses filled ready to go. These need to be consumed at the stall, but if you want a take-away, you get it in a small plastic bag tied at the top – was reminded about these this morning at the bus station, when I saw a girl with plastic bag full of yellow liquid and a straw sticking out of the top. Seems to be common in Peru and Bolivia.
Also seems ridiculous to be bargaining the price of items down ... such as reducing thee price of a bag down from 45Bs to 40 Bs ... but we do it. Item is still less than $10
Streets in certain areas of the city are huge market areas – some selling tourist type items, but we also went through a huge area of local markets selling clothing, food, shoes as well as grog. Stalls selling similar items or services are all grouped together. Some traders have shops but many, many more are set up on stands in the street. At night, everything gets packed away or wrapped up using plastic tarps.
Many street traders are selling drinks or juice. They usually have a few glasses filled ready to go. These need to be consumed at the stall, but if you want a take-away, you get it in a small plastic bag tied at the top – was reminded about these this morning at the bus station, when I saw a girl with plastic bag full of yellow liquid and a straw sticking out of the top. Seems to be common in Peru and Bolivia.
Monday, August 31, 2009
Photos
Have uploaded LOTS of pictures today from Uyuni and our salt adventures - Click on the slide show to view them. No pictures from La Paz yet. Going out soon to check out some more of the town.
Bye to all - hope you are enjoying our trip too...
Bye to all - hope you are enjoying our trip too...
Another night bus
We topped off our Uyuni visit with a fantastic pizza dinner at the hotel restaurant – Minuteman Pizza ... Pizza with Altitude 3670m. Been there – done that - Bought a T-Shirt. Really was the best pizza we've had in South America. Great food, great atmosphere and really friendly staff.
Shouldn't have enjoyed so much pizza and vino tinto ... because we followed our dinner with an overnight bus to La Paz – not so bad ... but about half the trip was on the roughest road ever. Worse than the Mistake Creek road ... or any other we have travelled on in Australia. We were sitting in the FRONT row on the TOP deck, so had a great view of the road ... when a view was possible through the clouds of dust. I should say that Lex had a great view, because I pulled the curtain across my view!!!! He reckons the 'road' ran along a creek bed for parts of the way. The vibrations (is there a stronger word than this???) shook everything ... moving our shoes and Jeff's laptop several rows back. They were lucky to rescue the laptop just before it slid down the stairs 2 rows behind their seat.
We arrived in La Paz just before daylight ... 11 hours on the bus and not game to brave the bus toilet ... the lights of this city from El Alto .. the top of the valley... is spectacular but not as good as the daylight view in my opinion.
Zac and Milka caught up with some sleep while we explored the streets and markets with Lex as the Tour Guide. I had remembered Zac's warnings from our previous trip – remove jewellery – carry as little as possible – be careful about people's sensitivities when taking pictures.
But we still drew attention to ourselves.
We wandered through market areas – tourist markets, witches markets (with all the llama fetuses etc) as well as local markets – clothing, food, party things etc. The scenes of bags stuffed with all sorts of items, people loaded with large heavy bags on their backs, babies sleeping amidst the goods or playing in cardboard boxes beside the stall, all the women in their colourful skirts, shawls and hats .... we just had to sneak a few snaps.
A local said something to us about 'la bolsa' – wasn't sure if he was warning us to be careful about the small bag containing a few purchases or to put the camera in the bag (balsa). But I put the camera away anyway ... to be on the safe side. Traffic around this area is chaotic with stalls set up on the roadway, pedestrians all over the roadway and cars and small minivans (buses) ploughing on through. Crossing these roads is a nightmare – and can only be achieved in stages, leaving us stranded in the middle of traffic often.
So when a group of local police ran passed me down the road and stopped the others (Lex, Jeff and Jill) .... with conversation in broken English and Spanish ... we were left wondering if we were being chatted because of – jay walking – taking photos in sensitive areas or violating peoples' privacy... or warning us about being in dangerous areas.
We hung about the street a bit longer (we weren't far from our hotel by this stage) as Jeff was getting his glasses fixed, and the group of police also remained in the area ... watching us. Not for long, because they approached us again, this time with an officer who could speak English. He explained that the area we'd been in was not safe for tourists – thieves, bag snatchers etc, and they wanted to warn us to be careful. They also asked if we needed help (as we hadn't moved on). They were very friendly and very caring about our safety.
Needless to say, Zac's reaction was a classic .... Mum, didn't I tell you to be careful about taking photos ... etc, etc, etc. Who's lecturing who now???
Next time we went out we went with Zac and Milka (our guardians).
Will be different today though ... as Zac and Milka have caught a plane back to Cusco - some people have to work, while we will stay in La Paz for another day before heading off to Puno. Should be interesting .... a border crossing on our own - without Zac.
Wait for the next entry .... hope there is a next!!!!
Shouldn't have enjoyed so much pizza and vino tinto ... because we followed our dinner with an overnight bus to La Paz – not so bad ... but about half the trip was on the roughest road ever. Worse than the Mistake Creek road ... or any other we have travelled on in Australia. We were sitting in the FRONT row on the TOP deck, so had a great view of the road ... when a view was possible through the clouds of dust. I should say that Lex had a great view, because I pulled the curtain across my view!!!! He reckons the 'road' ran along a creek bed for parts of the way. The vibrations (is there a stronger word than this???) shook everything ... moving our shoes and Jeff's laptop several rows back. They were lucky to rescue the laptop just before it slid down the stairs 2 rows behind their seat.
We arrived in La Paz just before daylight ... 11 hours on the bus and not game to brave the bus toilet ... the lights of this city from El Alto .. the top of the valley... is spectacular but not as good as the daylight view in my opinion.
Zac and Milka caught up with some sleep while we explored the streets and markets with Lex as the Tour Guide. I had remembered Zac's warnings from our previous trip – remove jewellery – carry as little as possible – be careful about people's sensitivities when taking pictures.
But we still drew attention to ourselves.
We wandered through market areas – tourist markets, witches markets (with all the llama fetuses etc) as well as local markets – clothing, food, party things etc. The scenes of bags stuffed with all sorts of items, people loaded with large heavy bags on their backs, babies sleeping amidst the goods or playing in cardboard boxes beside the stall, all the women in their colourful skirts, shawls and hats .... we just had to sneak a few snaps.
A local said something to us about 'la bolsa' – wasn't sure if he was warning us to be careful about the small bag containing a few purchases or to put the camera in the bag (balsa). But I put the camera away anyway ... to be on the safe side. Traffic around this area is chaotic with stalls set up on the roadway, pedestrians all over the roadway and cars and small minivans (buses) ploughing on through. Crossing these roads is a nightmare – and can only be achieved in stages, leaving us stranded in the middle of traffic often.
So when a group of local police ran passed me down the road and stopped the others (Lex, Jeff and Jill) .... with conversation in broken English and Spanish ... we were left wondering if we were being chatted because of – jay walking – taking photos in sensitive areas or violating peoples' privacy... or warning us about being in dangerous areas.
We hung about the street a bit longer (we weren't far from our hotel by this stage) as Jeff was getting his glasses fixed, and the group of police also remained in the area ... watching us. Not for long, because they approached us again, this time with an officer who could speak English. He explained that the area we'd been in was not safe for tourists – thieves, bag snatchers etc, and they wanted to warn us to be careful. They also asked if we needed help (as we hadn't moved on). They were very friendly and very caring about our safety.
Needless to say, Zac's reaction was a classic .... Mum, didn't I tell you to be careful about taking photos ... etc, etc, etc. Who's lecturing who now???
Next time we went out we went with Zac and Milka (our guardians).
Will be different today though ... as Zac and Milka have caught a plane back to Cusco - some people have to work, while we will stay in La Paz for another day before heading off to Puno. Should be interesting .... a border crossing on our own - without Zac.
Wait for the next entry .... hope there is a next!!!!
Sunday, August 30, 2009
So much sal!!!
Arrived in Uyuni around 2am ... piled into a taxi – all 6 of us, 5 big bags, 4 backpacks.... (Hey this is Bolivia isn't it.) and then checked into a hotel ... across the road from the Bolivian Army Barracks .. so NO FOTOS there – in fact signs all around the hotel warn people against taking photos in the military zone.
Zac has a great rapport with hotel and restaurant staff so we were treated to a superb breakfast ... even brought out the large jar of vegemite for us. We had a tour of the salt flats booked, so around 10.30am we headed out in a 4-wheel drive – 6 of us, a driver and a cook ... lunch was provided.
Stopped at a small village on the edge of the salt flat ... explanation of their process for drying and packaging salt – all done by hand, and a look around a few market stalls – few salt carved products which were interesting. Wonder how they will stand up to a bit of humidity.
Next stop was a train cemetery ... not sure of the history, but there was talk about Butch Cassidy county.
Now for a drive out onto the salt flat ... which is so much smoother than the rough dirt road we had driven on to get there. But why would you keep driving further out into the salt flat (I thinks to meself ... afterall it{s all the same). But keep driving we did ... miles. Then we stopped for a photo shoot ... well playing around on the salt flat.... now this was more like it. May have to wait for the best of those pics ... they are still on Zac{s camera. (oops... I am on a Spanish keyboard in and Internet Cafe .. no wifi in our hotel, sadly)
Then we kept driving... to an island in the salt. Looked as deserted as the rest ... had only seen a few vehicles ... but around the back of the island... and it was like being on Fraser ... lots of 4-wheel drives all parked up to the island ... and loads of people sitting at picnic tables ... made from salt.
It wasn{t long until our picnic was ready too and we sat down to chicken and salad, which we followed up with a walk around the island, more photos with HUGE cactus plants ... then more playing around on the salt.
It was another amazing, amazing day ... and so much more than had expected. Just like every other day.
More to write about our next adventure ... we are in La Paz now ... and there{s lots to go and look at so more will have to wait until later.... Bye.
Zac has a great rapport with hotel and restaurant staff so we were treated to a superb breakfast ... even brought out the large jar of vegemite for us. We had a tour of the salt flats booked, so around 10.30am we headed out in a 4-wheel drive – 6 of us, a driver and a cook ... lunch was provided.
Stopped at a small village on the edge of the salt flat ... explanation of their process for drying and packaging salt – all done by hand, and a look around a few market stalls – few salt carved products which were interesting. Wonder how they will stand up to a bit of humidity.
Next stop was a train cemetery ... not sure of the history, but there was talk about Butch Cassidy county.
Now for a drive out onto the salt flat ... which is so much smoother than the rough dirt road we had driven on to get there. But why would you keep driving further out into the salt flat (I thinks to meself ... afterall it{s all the same). But keep driving we did ... miles. Then we stopped for a photo shoot ... well playing around on the salt flat.... now this was more like it. May have to wait for the best of those pics ... they are still on Zac{s camera. (oops... I am on a Spanish keyboard in and Internet Cafe .. no wifi in our hotel, sadly)
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| From Peru - 2009 |
Then we kept driving... to an island in the salt. Looked as deserted as the rest ... had only seen a few vehicles ... but around the back of the island... and it was like being on Fraser ... lots of 4-wheel drives all parked up to the island ... and loads of people sitting at picnic tables ... made from salt.
It wasn{t long until our picnic was ready too and we sat down to chicken and salad, which we followed up with a walk around the island, more photos with HUGE cactus plants ... then more playing around on the salt.
It was another amazing, amazing day ... and so much more than had expected. Just like every other day.
More to write about our next adventure ... we are in La Paz now ... and there{s lots to go and look at so more will have to wait until later.... Bye.
Bolivia... we made it. Another border crossing.
Leaving Salta... and Argentina today. First stage is by bus to a town on the Argentinian border – La Quiacha. Once again we passed through spectacular scenery, climbed the mountains before travelling across the high pampa flatlands. I's not difficult to imagine how this mountainous area came about ... all the layers show how the landscape was formed as well as the movement and turmoil that must have taken place millions of years ago. The vertical, angular as well as rolling strata layers (if that's the right terminology) is really amazing.
At the border, we collected our luggage, enlisted the services of a local and his taxi-barrow to carry our gear the several hundred yards from the bus station .... through the township, and the border crossing ... to the Bolivian side.
Well, we were now at 3700m ... and feeling the altitude on the brisk walk trying to keep up with our barrow pusher .. an elderly, small but sprightly man. Once we arrived at the Border Control checkpoint, we joined the line of people waiting to have passports stamped, while our barrow pusher took the luggage along the roadway to the other side of the building ... and waited. This was a rather anxious time .. the line we were in wasn't moving, while a steady steam of locals and what looked like large groups of tourists filed straight past us and the checkpoint. At first we weren't able to see our barrow pusher or luggage, and there was much joking about whether he would wait to be paid the 10 Bolivianos promised ... or nicked off and sold our luggage for considerably more.
But he appeared at the other side of the building ... waiting and watching for us – rather hoped he might be watching our luggage. Zac had planned the trip to allow about 3 hours to get through both crossings and on to the station for the train leg.... but with talk of closing the office for lunch on top of the time we had already waited ... we surged towards the window ... Zac handed over all passports for us like a tour group ... and suddenly we were through. Lucky, 'cos Jill was freaking out about not having the Argentinian entry form that we completed on entering Argentina ... and which is collected when you leave the country. Not her fault ... cos the border guard on entry kept both copies of her form ... and we were told not to worry about it ... I'm sure she did.
On to the border ... show passports again and explain that our barrow pusher had our luggage ... and yes it was all clothes (ropas). Yes our barrow pusher was still there with ALL of our bags - woohoo.
Now to enter Bolivia ... more queues ... and forms. The queue was huge .... but this time it looked like locals, not tourists – so we followed Zac into the the office – completed our entry forms, had passports stamped ... and entered Bolivia.
Our barrow pusher, unfortunately couldn't go any further so our luggage was unloaded from the Argentinian barrow to a Bolivian barrow – the station was supposedly only 6 blocks from there ... and a price was negotiated.
Nearly got myself into some really hot water at this point ... boys went off to change some money, and I stepped back to take a photo of Jill and Milka with our barrow load of luggage on the Bolivian side ... when one of the other barrow pushers started shouting, jumping about wielding a lump of wood ... and apparently threatening to kick me. i got the message that he didn't want me to take a photo ... even though the camera wasn't pointed at him ... so I took refuge with the guys ... in the Cambio, leaving Milka and Jill to guard our load with our new Bolivian barrow pusher – who turned out to be a real whinger. Yes, he did have to push uphill, and it was much more than 6 blocks – but he agreed to the price.
The station left much to be desired – nothing like bus stations which are full of people selling food, drinks etc. There was nothing there ... and nothing to indicate it was a station. Zac and Milka managed to get chicken, rice and chips for all back in town ... a very greasy birthday lunch which was supplemented by some beer and coke from the shop across the road. Beer, just off the shelf, was cold enough, but care was definitely needed when opening ... and effect of altitude.
A few more beers were acquired ... hasitly ... for the train trip only to find out that the sell beer on the train so don't permit BYOs. That didn't deter these three Aussie drinkers ... who had to hide their cans every time the Beer Police (aka guards) came through.
Writing this whilst on the train ... scenery continued to be spectacular, we've been served a meal ... fruit juice, black coffee, biscuits and butter and jam. YUM!! Another terrifiic birthday meal.
It's now dark, so we're unable to appreciate the scenery – movies are shown in Spanish, so might be time to catch some shut eye. I think we may be on the train until 1am ... time keeps creeping back, but the good thing is that we are booked in to a hotel for whatever time we arrive. Also have a tour booked to visit the salt flats in the morning .... and then a night bus for the long trio to La Paz .... which is even higher.
The adventure continues ... will try to upload whenever I can.
At the border, we collected our luggage, enlisted the services of a local and his taxi-barrow to carry our gear the several hundred yards from the bus station .... through the township, and the border crossing ... to the Bolivian side.
Well, we were now at 3700m ... and feeling the altitude on the brisk walk trying to keep up with our barrow pusher .. an elderly, small but sprightly man. Once we arrived at the Border Control checkpoint, we joined the line of people waiting to have passports stamped, while our barrow pusher took the luggage along the roadway to the other side of the building ... and waited. This was a rather anxious time .. the line we were in wasn't moving, while a steady steam of locals and what looked like large groups of tourists filed straight past us and the checkpoint. At first we weren't able to see our barrow pusher or luggage, and there was much joking about whether he would wait to be paid the 10 Bolivianos promised ... or nicked off and sold our luggage for considerably more.
But he appeared at the other side of the building ... waiting and watching for us – rather hoped he might be watching our luggage. Zac had planned the trip to allow about 3 hours to get through both crossings and on to the station for the train leg.... but with talk of closing the office for lunch on top of the time we had already waited ... we surged towards the window ... Zac handed over all passports for us like a tour group ... and suddenly we were through. Lucky, 'cos Jill was freaking out about not having the Argentinian entry form that we completed on entering Argentina ... and which is collected when you leave the country. Not her fault ... cos the border guard on entry kept both copies of her form ... and we were told not to worry about it ... I'm sure she did.
On to the border ... show passports again and explain that our barrow pusher had our luggage ... and yes it was all clothes (ropas). Yes our barrow pusher was still there with ALL of our bags - woohoo.
Now to enter Bolivia ... more queues ... and forms. The queue was huge .... but this time it looked like locals, not tourists – so we followed Zac into the the office – completed our entry forms, had passports stamped ... and entered Bolivia.
Our barrow pusher, unfortunately couldn't go any further so our luggage was unloaded from the Argentinian barrow to a Bolivian barrow – the station was supposedly only 6 blocks from there ... and a price was negotiated.
Nearly got myself into some really hot water at this point ... boys went off to change some money, and I stepped back to take a photo of Jill and Milka with our barrow load of luggage on the Bolivian side ... when one of the other barrow pushers started shouting, jumping about wielding a lump of wood ... and apparently threatening to kick me. i got the message that he didn't want me to take a photo ... even though the camera wasn't pointed at him ... so I took refuge with the guys ... in the Cambio, leaving Milka and Jill to guard our load with our new Bolivian barrow pusher – who turned out to be a real whinger. Yes, he did have to push uphill, and it was much more than 6 blocks – but he agreed to the price.
The station left much to be desired – nothing like bus stations which are full of people selling food, drinks etc. There was nothing there ... and nothing to indicate it was a station. Zac and Milka managed to get chicken, rice and chips for all back in town ... a very greasy birthday lunch which was supplemented by some beer and coke from the shop across the road. Beer, just off the shelf, was cold enough, but care was definitely needed when opening ... and effect of altitude.
A few more beers were acquired ... hasitly ... for the train trip only to find out that the sell beer on the train so don't permit BYOs. That didn't deter these three Aussie drinkers ... who had to hide their cans every time the Beer Police (aka guards) came through.
Writing this whilst on the train ... scenery continued to be spectacular, we've been served a meal ... fruit juice, black coffee, biscuits and butter and jam. YUM!! Another terrifiic birthday meal.
It's now dark, so we're unable to appreciate the scenery – movies are shown in Spanish, so might be time to catch some shut eye. I think we may be on the train until 1am ... time keeps creeping back, but the good thing is that we are booked in to a hotel for whatever time we arrive. Also have a tour booked to visit the salt flats in the morning .... and then a night bus for the long trio to La Paz .... which is even higher.
The adventure continues ... will try to upload whenever I can.
Thursday, August 27, 2009
Big day out ... more than wine tour
Another HUGE day today ... in Argentina. We set off reasonably early (7.30 is much earlier than we have been getting up lately ... but not as early as we need to be up tomorrow ... 4.30!!!) and didn't get home until 9pm.
We headed south from Salta for the wine area of Cafayate, 180km or so ... but it takes hours .. about 4 hours. 75 km through an amazing gorge ... spectacular rock formations and scenery. On the way out we stopped a couplee of times ... to take photos, but stopped for even more on the way home, when the light was better for photos.
At Cafayate, we visited 2 wineries, had a super lunch at a really nice hotel/hacienda, and a bit of time to browse around the plaza (and shops) while Zac and Milka went horse riding.
We're all tired tonight.... a pity it's too late for an early night (11pm here already), because we have to be out of here at 5am ... for the next stage of our mystery tour.
We have a bus trip to a touwn on this side of the Argentine-Bolivian border ... after that I understand we need to cross the border, possibly on foot, and then a train ride to somewhere in Bolivia .... our tour leader has told us to be prepared for a long train ride... and possibly cold conditions. So here we go again...
Thanks all for the birthday wishes. Celebrated my birthday today ... Australian time ... rather than tomorrow, witth a big travel (bus and train) day.
We headed south from Salta for the wine area of Cafayate, 180km or so ... but it takes hours .. about 4 hours. 75 km through an amazing gorge ... spectacular rock formations and scenery. On the way out we stopped a couplee of times ... to take photos, but stopped for even more on the way home, when the light was better for photos.
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| From Peru - 2009 |
At Cafayate, we visited 2 wineries, had a super lunch at a really nice hotel/hacienda, and a bit of time to browse around the plaza (and shops) while Zac and Milka went horse riding.
We're all tired tonight.... a pity it's too late for an early night (11pm here already), because we have to be out of here at 5am ... for the next stage of our mystery tour.
We have a bus trip to a touwn on this side of the Argentine-Bolivian border ... after that I understand we need to cross the border, possibly on foot, and then a train ride to somewhere in Bolivia .... our tour leader has told us to be prepared for a long train ride... and possibly cold conditions. So here we go again...
Thanks all for the birthday wishes. Celebrated my birthday today ... Australian time ... rather than tomorrow, witth a big travel (bus and train) day.
Wednesday, August 26, 2009
Argentinian experience
I'm sitting quietly in a bar ... with wireless internet access (and a nearby power point) and very thankful for this tiny (and often frustrating) laptop.
I've just had a visit from a young girl, who'd only be about 6 or 7 ... trying to sell a handful of socks and stockings. Last night we had a couple of young kids in the restaurant around 11pm (one was about 10 and he had his arm around a younger boy about 4 or 5) ... they were just asking for money. Restaurant owners seem to tolerate them for a short while and then usher them to the door.
Sad to see kids out in the streets and bars like that....
The Artesan shops have many of the same items as Peru and Chile ... (maybe) alpaca jumpers, scarves, beanies etc ... but there's also a lot of leather, slightly different ceramics, silver aand jewellery. They also don't seem to enter into haggling so much, although it does happen on the more expensive items. I usually think I should have bought things ... after we leave a place. I like to look at things, but I'm not much of a shopper, really. Does that surprise anyone?
Our hotel is right on the Plaza, where there is a magnificient Cathedral. it's painted pink and pale yellow, it looks spectacular all lit up at night, but while we have been here it has been full of large groups of school students. Groups flood into the plaza and then into the Cathedral - not sure how long they stay, but we've seen them going in in the morning, and throughout the day and even around 5pm. So we've been in a couple of times to check it out .... it is really spectacular - no photos sorry, and the singing that we've heard (with responses from students) is very moving.
Shopping here is interesting. Not sure what time shops open up as we haven't been up early - our room has no external window or light source, but everything seems to shut around 1pm or so and doesn't re-open until 5.30pm - then they are open until about 9 or 10pm. Difficult to get used to.
Tomorrow we have a wine tour planned ...mmmm should be good.
Peace and quiet has just been disturbed by loud bangs, rhythmic drumming and whistling. A small group of people in costume protesting .... about tourism I think.... Something to follow up on later
I've just had a visit from a young girl, who'd only be about 6 or 7 ... trying to sell a handful of socks and stockings. Last night we had a couple of young kids in the restaurant around 11pm (one was about 10 and he had his arm around a younger boy about 4 or 5) ... they were just asking for money. Restaurant owners seem to tolerate them for a short while and then usher them to the door.
Sad to see kids out in the streets and bars like that....
The Artesan shops have many of the same items as Peru and Chile ... (maybe) alpaca jumpers, scarves, beanies etc ... but there's also a lot of leather, slightly different ceramics, silver aand jewellery. They also don't seem to enter into haggling so much, although it does happen on the more expensive items. I usually think I should have bought things ... after we leave a place. I like to look at things, but I'm not much of a shopper, really. Does that surprise anyone?
Our hotel is right on the Plaza, where there is a magnificient Cathedral. it's painted pink and pale yellow, it looks spectacular all lit up at night, but while we have been here it has been full of large groups of school students. Groups flood into the plaza and then into the Cathedral - not sure how long they stay, but we've seen them going in in the morning, and throughout the day and even around 5pm. So we've been in a couple of times to check it out .... it is really spectacular - no photos sorry, and the singing that we've heard (with responses from students) is very moving.
Shopping here is interesting. Not sure what time shops open up as we haven't been up early - our room has no external window or light source, but everything seems to shut around 1pm or so and doesn't re-open until 5.30pm - then they are open until about 9 or 10pm. Difficult to get used to.
Tomorrow we have a wine tour planned ...mmmm should be good.
Peace and quiet has just been disturbed by loud bangs, rhythmic drumming and whistling. A small group of people in costume protesting .... about tourism I think.... Something to follow up on later
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
Across the Andes in a bus
We´re getting comfortable with bus travel here ... but still couldn´t do it without Zac.
Caught a bus from San Pedro ... forgot to tell you the bus office was closed when we got back from out sunset desert tour ... but Zac managed to phone the office ... meet the lady AND get the last 6 seats on the bus to Salta leaving 10.30 next morning. So here we were waiting for a bus in the middle of a dusty paddock, that served as the bus stop (he didn´t tell us how long the trip would take ... just that we would be going over 5000m so pack warm clothes for the bus. Certainly was a mystery tour).
Breakfast boxes are handed out - great because we´d had strange Chilean bread and bananas for breakfast ... don´t get too excited, it was juice and a couple of small biscuits. 200m down the road and we stop for the Chilean border control point. Paperwork handed out for the Argentinian border as well. We file out of the bus ... through the control point, passports stamped and back on the bus. Then we wait .... for about an hour ... someone´s documents weren´t right.
On for a couple of hours ... through amazing desert mountain scenery ... barren ... and going up ... up ... up... almost straight up the mountains. Then another stop ... for the Argentinian Border Control point. By now we were very high ... probably around 5000m ... and the wind chill factor was at freezing. And we felt it because the passport check point office was very small and they only allowed groups of 5 into the room at a time. VERY chilly. Then back to the bus ... pick up a lunch box ... biscuit, juice and fruit... and then another long wait. We were there just over 2 hours ... someone else hadn´t done their paperwork properly - more people on the bus than paperwork stamped!!!!
More spectacular scenery - small frozen patches on some peaks, frozen creeks and lakes on the high plains, some vicunas, alpacas --- but so little vegetation. Late afternoon, and we seemed to be going downhill forever and then we passed a sign .... 4100m. We were still way up in the Andes... and the mountains stretched forever before us. We were on TOP of the world.
Sadly were were losing light as we continued the descent down the other side - not that I like being on the window seat and looking down from such great heights - but it was truly spectacular (I was on the aisle seat). The mountains are massive, huge folds of land, deep gorges from thousands (probably millions) of years of erosion. We passed through deep canyons, down long, straight sections and eventually down zig-zag, multi-hairpin bends. Looking up, we had travelled down a long way ... looking forward, we were still above the further peaks.... and still the road wound down .... It was so breath-taking - just wish there were some pictures to so ... but the light was fading. And amazingly, as remote and barren as this area is, we passed the occassional dwelling ... or even a person walking along.
Finally thought we saw the bright lights of a city way off in the distance. Still more than an hour away.... and down, down ,down. I wouldn´t like to be driving this road myself, and was thankful for the skill of our driver as we swerved onto the gravel at a much lower altitude.
Town was Jujuy .... not Salta which was still anout hour and a half away.... and more down. Arrived at Salta ... late, think it was around 10.30pm ... Zac picked out a hotel from the people touting. Good find ... close to the plaza, negotiated the price DOWN ... 100 pesos per room per night (think that´s around $30) including bus transfers (2 taxis and the hotel paid), and breakfast. Not bad.
Checked in and then off to find a restaurant open at 11pm ... for some Argentinian beef. It was good!!!!
More later... have overstretched my free 15 minutes ... and I need to find a power adapter ´cos I didn´t bring the right ones ... the Australian ones for here! Buggar!!
Caught a bus from San Pedro ... forgot to tell you the bus office was closed when we got back from out sunset desert tour ... but Zac managed to phone the office ... meet the lady AND get the last 6 seats on the bus to Salta leaving 10.30 next morning. So here we were waiting for a bus in the middle of a dusty paddock, that served as the bus stop (he didn´t tell us how long the trip would take ... just that we would be going over 5000m so pack warm clothes for the bus. Certainly was a mystery tour).
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| From Peru - 2009 |
Breakfast boxes are handed out - great because we´d had strange Chilean bread and bananas for breakfast ... don´t get too excited, it was juice and a couple of small biscuits. 200m down the road and we stop for the Chilean border control point. Paperwork handed out for the Argentinian border as well. We file out of the bus ... through the control point, passports stamped and back on the bus. Then we wait .... for about an hour ... someone´s documents weren´t right.
On for a couple of hours ... through amazing desert mountain scenery ... barren ... and going up ... up ... up... almost straight up the mountains. Then another stop ... for the Argentinian Border Control point. By now we were very high ... probably around 5000m ... and the wind chill factor was at freezing. And we felt it because the passport check point office was very small and they only allowed groups of 5 into the room at a time. VERY chilly. Then back to the bus ... pick up a lunch box ... biscuit, juice and fruit... and then another long wait. We were there just over 2 hours ... someone else hadn´t done their paperwork properly - more people on the bus than paperwork stamped!!!!
More spectacular scenery - small frozen patches on some peaks, frozen creeks and lakes on the high plains, some vicunas, alpacas --- but so little vegetation. Late afternoon, and we seemed to be going downhill forever and then we passed a sign .... 4100m. We were still way up in the Andes... and the mountains stretched forever before us. We were on TOP of the world.
 |
| From Peru - 2009 |
 |
| From Peru - 2009 |
Sadly were were losing light as we continued the descent down the other side - not that I like being on the window seat and looking down from such great heights - but it was truly spectacular (I was on the aisle seat). The mountains are massive, huge folds of land, deep gorges from thousands (probably millions) of years of erosion. We passed through deep canyons, down long, straight sections and eventually down zig-zag, multi-hairpin bends. Looking up, we had travelled down a long way ... looking forward, we were still above the further peaks.... and still the road wound down .... It was so breath-taking - just wish there were some pictures to so ... but the light was fading. And amazingly, as remote and barren as this area is, we passed the occassional dwelling ... or even a person walking along.
 |
| From Peru - 2009 |
Finally thought we saw the bright lights of a city way off in the distance. Still more than an hour away.... and down, down ,down. I wouldn´t like to be driving this road myself, and was thankful for the skill of our driver as we swerved onto the gravel at a much lower altitude.
Town was Jujuy .... not Salta which was still anout hour and a half away.... and more down. Arrived at Salta ... late, think it was around 10.30pm ... Zac picked out a hotel from the people touting. Good find ... close to the plaza, negotiated the price DOWN ... 100 pesos per room per night (think that´s around $30) including bus transfers (2 taxis and the hotel paid), and breakfast. Not bad.
Checked in and then off to find a restaurant open at 11pm ... for some Argentinian beef. It was good!!!!
 |
| From Peru - 2009 |
More later... have overstretched my free 15 minutes ... and I need to find a power adapter ´cos I didn´t bring the right ones ... the Australian ones for here! Buggar!!
Monday, August 24, 2009
San Pedro de Atacama
... writing this from Salta, Argentina.... 3 countries in 3 days ... but that´s another story.
San Pedro first... sorry, pictures will have to wait.
Arrived in San Pedro by bus from Arica... not sure how long, but it was an overnight bus. We got on the bus around 10pm ... and arrived at San Pedro next morning sometime around 8 or 9 or 10am. Life is a blur. Another interesting bus trip. We had our big bags inspected and tagged at the bus station so when we arrived at a Control point somewhere in the middle of the night we only had to take our hand luggage off the bus... put it up on a bench and open the bags. No big deal, then back on the bus and back to sleep. We had our sleeping bags and were very comfortable - Semi-Cama bus and the seats recline well back.
The desert is spectacular. We must have climbed a long way up through the night - think Zac said we´d reach 5000m overnight, and then we went a long way down .... long, almost straight roads ... all the way to San Pedro.
Strange place ... reminds me a little of Lightning Ridge. All dwellings appear to be mud brick, low set and behind mud brick walls ... very dusty. Several touts for hostals met the bus, and Zac picked out a bargain for us ... 2 blocks (... plus) from the Plaza. That was an experience - bet you can´t wait to see the pictures of that place. ;-)
We took an afternoon tour to Moon Valley - included a walk through a Salt Canyon, a couple of other places and a sunset view of the desert from a high point ... which was a really hard climb - we were still at 2400m.
Once back in town Zac organised a bus out to Salta the next morning - so we settled in for a meal ... and a few Chilean reds to complete our visit to Chile. Jeff even managed to do some work on the hot water system ... on the roof of the hostal during the night.... No wonder there was no water for Milka´s shower the next morning.
Chile is so much more expensive than other places .... but it is also so much harder to get used to the currency - BIG numbers with lots of zeros. Toilet stop costs 200 pesos. Large french fries at Maccas in Arica was 900 pesos. Pizza for lunch at San Pedro was 8,500 pesos - think that´s about $17 US - change that to Peruvian soles and it´s about 51 soles .... expensive in Zac and Milka´s eyes when you consider we had meals in top class restaurant with fantastic service for 35 soles.
San Pedro first... sorry, pictures will have to wait.
Arrived in San Pedro by bus from Arica... not sure how long, but it was an overnight bus. We got on the bus around 10pm ... and arrived at San Pedro next morning sometime around 8 or 9 or 10am. Life is a blur. Another interesting bus trip. We had our big bags inspected and tagged at the bus station so when we arrived at a Control point somewhere in the middle of the night we only had to take our hand luggage off the bus... put it up on a bench and open the bags. No big deal, then back on the bus and back to sleep. We had our sleeping bags and were very comfortable - Semi-Cama bus and the seats recline well back.
 |
| From Peru - 2009 |
 |
| From Peru - 2009 |
The desert is spectacular. We must have climbed a long way up through the night - think Zac said we´d reach 5000m overnight, and then we went a long way down .... long, almost straight roads ... all the way to San Pedro.
Strange place ... reminds me a little of Lightning Ridge. All dwellings appear to be mud brick, low set and behind mud brick walls ... very dusty. Several touts for hostals met the bus, and Zac picked out a bargain for us ... 2 blocks (... plus) from the Plaza. That was an experience - bet you can´t wait to see the pictures of that place. ;-)
 |
| From Peru - 2009 |
We took an afternoon tour to Moon Valley - included a walk through a Salt Canyon, a couple of other places and a sunset view of the desert from a high point ... which was a really hard climb - we were still at 2400m.
 |
| From Peru - 2009 |
 |
| From Peru - 2009 |
Once back in town Zac organised a bus out to Salta the next morning - so we settled in for a meal ... and a few Chilean reds to complete our visit to Chile. Jeff even managed to do some work on the hot water system ... on the roof of the hostal during the night.... No wonder there was no water for Milka´s shower the next morning.
Chile is so much more expensive than other places .... but it is also so much harder to get used to the currency - BIG numbers with lots of zeros. Toilet stop costs 200 pesos. Large french fries at Maccas in Arica was 900 pesos. Pizza for lunch at San Pedro was 8,500 pesos - think that´s about $17 US - change that to Peruvian soles and it´s about 51 soles .... expensive in Zac and Milka´s eyes when you consider we had meals in top class restaurant with fantastic service for 35 soles.
Saturday, August 22, 2009
Macdonalds in Arica Chile
We're just having papas frittas at Maccas in Chile. A long bus trip ... followed by a taxi ride ... border crossing which we could only manage with the assistance of Spanish speakers ... with some knowledge of how things work here. What an eventful day ... again.
Throughout the day I think of so many things to write about but just now they all evade me. I started off in the front seat of the bus ... on the top . Spectacular views - but all got too much for me with incredibly winding roads, passing other buses and trucks ... on double lines. I just had to swap places with Jill for a third row seat. It's such barren desolate country.
Whenn we reached the coast ... over the border in Chile, it really isn't much different.... still desolate, barren, but desert. So much sand. Will have to wait for the pictures.
The taxi ride across the border was well worth the 60 soles - our driver was in and out of the car on the Peruvian side as well as the Chilean side ... paperwork and customs checks. Another experience to add to our kitbag. Interesting that when you cross the Chilean border by car, you don't pay the $56US that you pay with entry into the Santiago airport.
Love to all....
FYI - Milka was most upset when we left Cusco that Lac and Katrina weren't coming with us, and today we left Mitch behind in Arequipa .... the group is getting smaller ... so more sadness.
Throughout the day I think of so many things to write about but just now they all evade me. I started off in the front seat of the bus ... on the top . Spectacular views - but all got too much for me with incredibly winding roads, passing other buses and trucks ... on double lines. I just had to swap places with Jill for a third row seat. It's such barren desolate country.
Whenn we reached the coast ... over the border in Chile, it really isn't much different.... still desolate, barren, but desert. So much sand. Will have to wait for the pictures.
The taxi ride across the border was well worth the 60 soles - our driver was in and out of the car on the Peruvian side as well as the Chilean side ... paperwork and customs checks. Another experience to add to our kitbag. Interesting that when you cross the Chilean border by car, you don't pay the $56US that you pay with entry into the Santiago airport.
Love to all....
FYI - Milka was most upset when we left Cusco that Lac and Katrina weren't coming with us, and today we left Mitch behind in Arequipa .... the group is getting smaller ... so more sadness.
Friday, August 21, 2009
Message to all
So much to write about ... I am behind again. We had an awesome day in the Colca Canyon - spectacular scenery, saw several condors ... just overheard, another great feast for lunch - even greater range than the previous day. Every day exceeds our expectations.
Gladys and Miguel have returned to Lima - today is Mitch's birthday, and his last day with us, so we celebrated in another amazing restaurant. Very classy place ... mains were about 35 soles. Still cheap.
Today we managed a bus trip around Arequipa and a tour of the Santa Catalina Monestry .... which I missed last time. HUGE place - lots of great photo opportunities.
Tomorrow morning ... early ... we are off on an early bus to Tacna ... somewhere near thee border ... then we're crossing the border into Chile ... and heading for San Pedro in the Atacama Desert ... well that's the plan. See how we go. We have tickets for the first bus trip ... but that doesn't mean much here.
Not sure when I will have an opportunity to update this. Also having trouble adding pics to the blog so please check the Picassa web ablum instead ... click on the slideshow or try this link http://picasaweb.google.com/lj4721/Peru2009#
Cheers Judy
Gladys and Miguel have returned to Lima - today is Mitch's birthday, and his last day with us, so we celebrated in another amazing restaurant. Very classy place ... mains were about 35 soles. Still cheap.
Today we managed a bus trip around Arequipa and a tour of the Santa Catalina Monestry .... which I missed last time. HUGE place - lots of great photo opportunities.
Tomorrow morning ... early ... we are off on an early bus to Tacna ... somewhere near thee border ... then we're crossing the border into Chile ... and heading for San Pedro in the Atacama Desert ... well that's the plan. See how we go. We have tickets for the first bus trip ... but that doesn't mean much here.
Not sure when I will have an opportunity to update this. Also having trouble adding pics to the blog so please check the Picassa web ablum instead ... click on the slideshow or try this link http://picasaweb.google.com/lj4721/Peru2009#
Cheers Judy
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