Dyeing in Chinchero ... Part 1

Early on Sophie's trip to Cusco, she found a small textile shop where a lady showed her a book of dyeing and weaving photos.  She took me in to show me - think I had been there previously, but hadn't engaged in any conversation with the store keeper.  Solo mirando (just looking).  Like most places, as soon as you stop to admire an item, many items are unfolded and displayed, a price may be given, and then reduces and generally this question follows 'How much for you, lady?'

But the experiences where you do engage in conversation (more than the price haggling) are so much richer.

This particular day, Sophie asked to see the book again, and we were shown another book as well - dyed wool samples - all natural.  Knowing Sophie's interest in all textiles, I said that she would like to learn about natural dyeing - 'could you teach her?'   Well I'm sure I didn't say those exact words (in Spanish - because I still don't know how to say that), but our lady understood our request, even though she spoke no English.  She asked us to come back tomorrow and speak with her daughter (who spoke English) to make arrangements.

We were on a HIGH!!!

Next day arrangements were made for us to visit her family home in Chinchero, and spend a day with them learning how they work with plants to make amazing colours.  Couldn't believe this was happening.  We planned to make a family outing - spend the weekend in Chinchero with Zac and Milka before heading off to Ollantaytambo for a few days ... and of course Machu Picchu.

Found some really delightful accommodation in Chinchero - Casa de Barro.

Sophie and I had a few hours Saturday afternoon to explore some markets ... sadly the best market in Chinchero is only Sunday, but we did find some more amazing experiences.  

Later when Lex, Zac and Milka arrived we strolled around the Inca terraces at Chinchero.

Couldn't pass up the chance to take a look around the famous Chinchero Markets before meeting our lady.  All the food stalls were doing business but most of the textile stalls were yet to set up.  Chinchero is the centre for textiles in Cusco area.

Heading back towards our lodge, we noticed a woman waving to us.  First thought - who's she waving at??? Took a few moments to realise this was our lady ... waiting for us, and greeting us like long lost friends.  

Four of us headed up the track with her to her house, while Lex trekked off in a different direction for a day's hiking in the mountains. He tired himself out ... walking along an Inca road down the mountain, and then returning UP the same path.  Spectacular walk...

Look for Chinchero Part 2 for our dyeing adventure!!!

Enjoying Cusco with family

Few weeks since I last updated this blog - too busy sharing our favourite places, markets, foods, bars, sights and sounds etc with Sophie.  We've even managed a few extra special experiences as well.  It's been awesome!!

Around historic sites... plenty of those around Cusco!!!

The 12 sided stone in Cusco.

Qoricancha ... opposite Zac's office.

Tipon - lots of walking uphill here - but rain cancelled the walk back to the township  

The Cathedral in Cusco.

Sacsayhuaman - we walked UP to this site .... and then out to Qenko.  BIG day walking!

Just a short rest on these seats at Sacsayhuaman

Chinchero ... late afternoon stroll around the ruins.  Cold!!!

Up on the hill behind Ollantaytambo - more ruins and more UPHILL walking.

Oh and now my secret is out!!!  Not being very brave with heights or narrow pathways right on the edge of mountains, I couldn't actually say I 'walk' up these inclines.  But I do get there..... most of the time! Four legs must be better than two!

Magic day at Machu Picchu

Markets ..... Have we been to markets??????  Within hours of Sophie landing in Cusco we headed off to a local market for fresh produce for lunch - and of course a 'local' market experience.... meat cuts all on display can be confronting .  Santa Rosa Market at San Sebastian

Crafty tourist markets ..... plenty of these too. Selling jumpers (maybe alpaca), blankets, scarves, ceramics, textiles, hats, bags, etc etc etc.  Often children operate stalls but they are just as persistent and knowledgeable about their wares as the adults.  Can't put anything over them, I imagine.

Little girl at Pisac markets demonstrating and selling dyes.  Of course Sophie bought some of these!! 

Wooden spoons in all shapes and sizes.  Hope we can get these back to OZ.

Molino Market is like Cusco black market - sells everything from TVs to party items.  Watch your pockets in this area....  We did manage a quick photo of the stalls with everything for parties. Pinatas are very big over here.

And textile shops - there are lots these too.  Many are co-operatives selling textiles from particular areas.  We had some amazing experiences chatting with sellers in our limited Spanish.  One lady is a 'Sharman' - she gave us crystals and next moment she was performing a cleansing ritual with them for us.... all over our bodies. Mmm but she did rightly pinpoint that I was suffering sore neck and shoulders.
Talked to another lady and about dyeing process and suddenly we were organising a day workshop with her and her family at their house in Chinchero .... spectacular!!! Watch for the blog post about that - I will get to it!

Oh and I should add while mentioning shopping experiences. I could be a godmother here in Peru!!! Yesterday we returned to the Chinchero lady's shop while showing Tish around.  One of the ladies had her small (2 yr old) son with her.  Augusto looked very much like a little girl, so they explained to us that he would not have his first haircut until his baptism - by his padrino (godfather).   Within seconds I was asked if I wanted to be his 'madrina'.  I don't think I will still be here in May.....   but you never know!!!

Eating out ... mostly in Cusco

We've had some amazing dining experiences.  Couple of highlights on our Rio trip were -

Moqueca (fish stew).  finger licking good!!

And a spectacular churrasco (Brazilian BBQ) in Brasilia ... and spectacularly expensive too!!!  Tenderest cuts of beef we've ever tasted, fabulous service, amazing salad bar!!!  Very upper class looking place, but they didn't turn us away in our travel gear and back packs - although all packs, coats etc were placed on extra chairs at our table, and covered with a crisp white tablecloth!!!!  Like Senor Carbon here in Cusco, they keep bringing different meats straight off the grill, until you turn over the green/red coaster on the table. 

In Cusco we enjoyed nachos at our favourite balcony seat in Paddy's Bar - and shared this with Sophie as well as Tish and Al.  Enjoyed by all.  Nachos made with wontons rather than con chips, but we love them!!!

Had a great night at Limo on the plaza in Cusco - delicious food and awesome cocktails too!!!

Have also enjoyed sampling street food (although we are careful with our choices) - not everyone enjoyed the 'tuna' like I do (cactus fruit).  

'Menu' places offer a 3 course meal (smaller servings) for very little money.  We tried a few of these - a favourite was Yanapay Restaurant which is part of a social project to support under pivileged children.  The restaurant is like a step back into childhood - and you could find youself sharing your table with any number of large stuffed animals.  

We've eaten traditional Peruvian food as well as 'tourist' food ....and it's all delicious!!!  (Although I could probably pass on the 'chicherron'

Carnival...... feathers, colour, feathers, music, feathers, costumes ..... DRUMS..

Sooo many feathers...  Large costumes, even larger floats, colour, pulsating, loud music, thousands of people.  That was the Samba Parade at Carnival!!!!  We were there Sunday night ... all night!!!

We walked to the Sambadrome along with other people from our hotel, many of them in costume also. Party atmosphere prevailed right from the start - refreshments available from street vendors along the way.

Another first for me....  I have started to drink beer - it's just easier!!

The queue for sector 13 was massive, but moved along steadily.  Sector 13 is set back a little further from the parade area, and is at the end of the strip.  Once dancers got to the end of the strip they were in really high spirits and often performed for the crowd.  Spectacular!!!  Especially when the final section of each samba group arrived - the percussion section kept pumping out the music to the delight of the crowd in Sector 13.  It was the BEST!!!

Really hard to describe such a huge event

• we saw 7 samba groups
• each group has a theme and a song which belted out during their entire performance (most people in the crowd were singing along as well - they know all the words!)
• seemed to be LOTS of HUGE floats in each samba school group - possible 6-8
• between each of the floats were lots of dancers in different costumes - usually between 6 to 10 different costumed sections with 100-300 people in each section.  Sooo many people.  Read one samba school had 3600 performers.  Reckon some had more than that.  Percussion sections alone had at least 300 members - LOVED the percussion!!!
• each samba school took around 90 minutes for the entire group to progress from one end of the sambadrome to the other - music booming out the entire time and all the people around us standing, dancing singing, shouting and waving.  Great atmosphere.
• as soon as one samba school finished the next one started immediately - the first group started at 9pm and the final group started around 6am - sunrise.  What a night!!!  The crowd of 90000 had thinned considerably by that time - but Section 13 was still buzzing.  The last group was our favourite - an African theme - the story of an Angolan kingdom and its contribution to Brazil. Stunning costumes and floats!!!
• as each group finished they were ushered out of the area.  Even that was a spectacle - how to get around 4000 performers, many in large elaborate costumes away from the area, and to get performers off the HUGE floats - 4 large cranes were set up for this purpose, and 2 smaller fork lifts were also used.  Then to get them all away from the area (performers and floats - some of which only made it to the end of the parade by man-power), and have cleaning teams come in an clean the whole area ready for the next troop.
• we had a 45 minute wait between the end of one group until the next group arrive in front of us - but the music was ever present, and there were 2 large screens showing various sections of the parade - and there was plenty to look at as the last performers of the previous group left the area and cleaners came in.
• many large costumes were discarded - dumped in huge piles and picked up by waiting garbage trucks. A number of more attractive and easily carried pieces such as head-dresses were pilfered by eager members of the crowd.  A benefit of being in Sector 13 .... end of the parade.  Early in the morning Zac managed to get a couple of pieces .... 

We had a fabulous night .  Walked home during daylight.

An afternoon at the beach

One can't go to Rio without going to Ipanema Beach and Copacobana Beach.  I can say we walked on the sand briefly - HOT, and dipped my toes into the water - COLD - but the sheer spectacle was soooo much more amazing.  There must of been hundreds of thousands of people on the beach - most with red umbrellas.

A young, bikini clad girl asked if I wanted my photo taken with her ..... so someone aimed the camera, a couple of her friends jumped in beside her .... and here we are.  In Peru they would be asking for payment.  In Australia, it just wouldn't happen - can't take photos of other people, especially children.  Amazing!

 Both beaches are really long and totally packed - mostly locals.  Interesting - bikinis are mostly small, while make speedos are mostly larger than back in Oz.  Everybody is out to enjoy the sunshine - regardless of shape or size. Aussie girls usually try to avoid a tan line (from straps) Latin American girls like to have a tan line - so Milka explained to me.

 

Sarongs for sale - wish I had bought some of these.

 

Vendors make their way through the crowds selling food, prawn kebabs, drinks, ice-creams as well as bikinis, sarongs etc.  You don't even have to move from your spot!!! Drink stalls are stationed every hundred metres or so - alcohol of course readily available everywhere. Rio party continued on the beaches as well!!

Loved this sales setup.  Guy walked along the beach with his umbrella, dripping with bikinis. Every few hundred metres he stopped, planted his umbrella firmly into the sand and sat down and set up shop in his own personal shade.  Brilliant technique.    

 

     

cashews...

Prawn kebabs

Apparently recycling is worthwhile - so can collectors were out and about everywhere we went. Very little litter!