Leaving on a jet plane....

We're on our way home, and as you can imagine, leaving what has become our second home and our extended family was quite difficult. It was an early start ... flight changes and all, leaving us very short of time for the Lima change-over.

We arrived, to be greeted by Milka's Lima family, Gladys, Miguel and Sara ... who arrived with a present for Lex. How awesome - it's probably a one hour taxi ride from their place to the airport - and we were so short of time we only had time to say 'hi', 'thanks' and 'goodbye until we return' - but it was good to see them again... really must learn more Spanish for our next trip. The present was a new hat - so I now have his other hat to wear home. Check this out....

we have about 5 hours here ... so might be looking for a power point - on our trip over we only had wifi for a short time. May be different this time.

Last night's darts night was a good farewell to Cusco for us - sharing the time not only with Zac and Milka but also several of their friends. They all make us feel so welcome, and the kilt wearing Scotsman, gave us a short farewell speech on behalf of all ... commenting that of all the expats in the group, Zac was the only one whose parents had visited for such an extended period ... 11 weeks - and he thought that was awesome! They also mentioned that Zac and Milka had fielded several comments at various times about having parents/in-laws living with them for almost 3 months, and both said, 'No problem!' It really wasn't a problem either!

We have lots of adjusting to do when we get home ....

• work for me ... I know that's going to be a challenge.
• not going out so much ... sitting in a bar for a few hours enjoying spectacular scenes, or eating out
  
• less rice ... maybe
• might have to remove the waste paper bin from the toilet for a while
• and the cost of everything in Oz ... our 2 course dinner with wine and live opera for 4 people cost less then $100, and of course you can eat well for much less than that.
• shopping ... not so many opportunities in Clermont
• and may be lots more

No doubt we will be back again sometime ... although, much to Milka's disappointment, we can't name a time.

Signing off from South America 25 September 2009.

Last days in Cusco .... and here's still more to see.

What an amazing place ... a place of contrasts .... always throws up something different.

Yesterday, being our second last day in Cusco, we headed in to town for the afternoon - I browsed some of the markets again whilst Lex made himself comfortable at Paddy's. Not a bad way to spend an afternoon. I even bought a couple of hand-painted cards from a young man - these are alwys interesting exchanges ... but ones we mostly try to avoid. The conversation goes like this (and if you've been here yourself, you'll relate to this)...

You look at my paintings lady. It's my work. One sol..... (it's never one sol)... No thanks.
Maybe later. Maybe next week. Maybe next life. ( I love their sense of humour.) No Thanks. Walk into another shop ... only to find him still waiting for me when I come out.
Where you come from lady? Australia, I say, not wanting to be rude ... but BAD move 'cos it always opens more dialogue.
Kevin Rudd the Prime Minister. Who you like best, Kevin Rudd or John Howard?
I asked where it learnt about them ... and he says at school.
I don't like either ... Politics. Country needs politics, but it's full of corruption. You like Cusco? How many times you been here?
Twice
Bit more conversation... and I say Ciao ... and go into the next market, but he is still waiting when I come out 30 mins later..... So I look at his work. We negotiate a price, and I now have 2 hand painted cards.

I met up with Lex later in Paddy's ... and find he's got into some conversation with a couple of Irishmen and a Scot, who were wanting to find out where you get the drink made from a frog in a blender!!!!! (brings to mind a cartoon I saw years ago) Haven't heard of this drink ... but the waitress says she's had the soup, not the drink, but she thinks you can get it at San Pedro market .... where Zac introduced Lex who introduced Jeff to a special drink ... fruit, milk, beer ... etc. Don't think we have time for another trip to San Pedro market before we leave ... ;-)

After Paddy's we met Zac and Milka for church - not their local church, but one near the Plaza since we were going out for tea after. Just happened to be the Saint's day at La Merced church, so it was packed, with different blessings being made etc. Voices in these churches are very beautiful!

And a new experience for tea ... dinner and entertainment at Divina Comedia - a couple of streets up the hill from the plaza. Dinner and live opera performances .... in Cusco!!!!

From Peru 2 - 2009

What a unique experience - the food was superb, and the entertainment was amazing ... and so effortless!!! Dessert was also unique ... a shared plate with small serves of 5 different desserts. What a great idea when you can't decide on one!!! or just want to try them all!!!

From Peru 2 - 2009

The restaurant is in one of those magnificent, well maintained colonial buildings ... very old stone-work, courtyard in the middle. Even the toilet was an experience. Lights came on automatically as you walked along the corridor. The hand basin had a stone puma head for the water .. but there was no obvious tap ... small pressure plate on the floor, turns on the water and it comes out of the puma's mouth!! Glad I wasn't the first to go ...

Tonight we are in for a different experience. Last night in Cusco and Zac's friends have brought their weekly darts night forward to Thurs for us... so we are off to Cross Keys ... a very nice, English style pub.

But wait .... there's more!

Spectacular Spring Sunday continues .....

Lex and I walked down from Sacsayhuaman to Cusco .... (rather walk down than up as some people were!!!!) and thinking ... breakfast at Jack's would top off a fabulous morning ... but the sights and sounds of Plaza de Armas were calling ... yet again.

A band was playing ... and could be heard from the church at San Christobel (where Jill and I had explored a parade with Zac some weeks earlier). A crowd was gathering ... I just had to check it out - give breakfast a miss.

From Peru 2 - 2009

There was the usual military presence assembled in front of the Cathedral ...

From Peru 2 - 2009

but thousands more people were gathered on the street in front of the Jesuit Church ... along the whole length of the street. Many of the group on the Norton's end were very young children ...and parents - but the kids were nearly all in costumes.

From Peru 2 - 2009

When the parade began ... after the military marching and bands - the groups of kids followed. It appeared to be kindergarten groups ... and all groups had a theme for their costumes ... but the kids were sooo young - from about 2yr old. Parents and or teachers carried some very young ones ... but most marched along.

From Peru 2 - 2009

One group, slightly oder, about 4 or 5 were in school uniform ... what a sight to see them 'goose-stepping' their way along the street.

Groups of adults (possibly teachers) followed - but there were still thousands of people waiting for their turn around the plaza. From what we were able to read from the banners, it looked like a parade celebrating education in Cusco.... but Milka explained later, that it was a Spring Festival Parade ...which probably explains some of the costumes on the littlies - flowers, bees, cows....maybe! But it was spectacular. People here seem to LOVE parades ... and costumes.

We didn't wait to see it all ... tired and hungry - although I did manage a bit more shopping before heading home for the rest of our previous night's sleep!!

First day of Spring in Cusco ... apparently

Sunday ... what a spectacular day!!!

We'd heard about a festival at Sacsayhuaman ... not sure that we got to that one, buut this was definitely one of those 'special' moments. Milka came home one night from Tourism class talking about an event in the Valley of the Moon ... somewhere near Qenko. Details were sketchy ... except 5.30am. Another trip to this area of the valley ... in the early morning was certainly appealing to Lex and I ... so all agreed - not only would we be there, but we would buy an Andian tree the day before for a special tree planting ceremony at Sacsayhuaman. No one figured on the late night of social darts at Mark and Cecilia's the night before.... ;-(

But we were up early ... caught a taxi (a driver with some supposed knowledge of the place) ... and were eventually deposited somewhere in the hills. Not many people in sight ... but the arrival of a few others walking along, carrying small trees gave us hope that we were in the right place.

Lex and I felt very privileged to be included with a small group of locals in this ceremony. Most of the ceremony was in Quechan, with an occasional explanation in Spanish ... so we had little hope of understanding anything. We go the idea it was a tribute to Pachamama (Mother Earth). There was also a purification (cleansing) ceremony - involving smoke -

From Peru 2 - 2009

ridding the body of all bad thoughts and making a wish for the future. (maybe that's off the mark - but it was an incredible feeling to not only be there ... but to be welcomed there and included by those conducting the event). The surroundings added to the magic of the moment.

We followed along with the group to Sacsayhuaman with drums beating

From Peru 2 - 2009

(past an accident scene involving a bus and a car - first accident we've seen here, amazingly, considering the road and the vehicles ... and the drivers). Some sections we had walked previously with Jeff, Jill and our friend ... but at times we went down back lanes, and into the back entry to Sacsayhuaman, where the tree planting ceremony took place. Much ritual with all of this - in Quechan again. We all were asked to select 3 + 2 coca leaves - similar significance to the smoke... put your wishes into the coca leaves - which were placed carefully into the bottom of a hole. Then all the items which were part of the ceremony were placed into the hole (including the ceramic containers) .... flower petals, seeds, water, and lots more we didn't understand .... as well as chocolate, red wine, apple!!!

From Peru 2 - 2009

Everyone was invited to cover these items with some soil, and then our trees were blessed with some special water.

And then we planted our trees.

Lex was in his element ... sitting in a hole, covered in dirt with Sacsayhuaman in the background - what a treat!! By this stage, Zac and Milka had ducked away, leaving Lex and I with a group of Quechan and Spanish speaking locals.... and we were very comfortable with it too.

From Peru 2 - 2009

Last days in Cusco

.... so we had to do more .... shopping, walking, eating out, relaxing at the locals.... and whatever else Cusco delivers, which BTW is always something.

From Peru 2 - 2009

Walking the streets we came across this enterprising young girl - about 8yrs old ... out on her own. She talked us into taking photos - something we usually ignore. Her name was Flor.

First night back ... really felt like I had arrived home. Just love this city and we spent a wonderful evening at Norton's with the owner/manager, Milka's friend. Beans are definitely NOT the best thing to eat on first night return to altitude .... well that's what I'm blaming ... not the red wine we had!

One day Lex and I walked around several streets - which are always fascinating, and ended up at Norton's ... and from the balcony we watched as the traffic flow decreased (police motor-cyclist parked in the middle of the road will do it). A group entered the plaza carrying beautiful lanterns ... planes, boats, flowers etc... As they paraded round the plaza and past our balcony, we realised it was a Bi-lingual School ... and discovered later, when we dined at Cross Keys (another of Zac's local spots) that the group was celebrating their 9th anniversary ... some of Zac's friends had been in the parade and were also dining at Cross Keys.

That same evening, we were attracted by more music ... to find a band near La Merced church ... thumping out popular music. Also spent some time at a Book Sale in the square ... bought a recipe book ... in Spanish and English - not all ingredients will be available in OZ!

From Peru 2 - 2009

Cusco is never dull!

More about school

Forgot to mention student writing. Our kids generally learn print script first, then exits and entries leading to cursive script. Often our students continue, or revert to print script as their preferred option.

Here the students learn cursive script from the start!!! Interesting.

Off to school ... Peru style

Went to school one morning whilst in Lima with Milka's niece and her mum. Very interesting. Schools generally are surrounded by high (approx 10 ft with wire above that), solid concrete walls. The gate is only open at certain times.

When we arrived ... around 7.45am .. the gate was open, many parents were standing around outside, and children were filing through the gate, with their control book (bit like a student diary), open to be stamped on entry. We weren't permitted in ... but Sara caught the eye of the director across the concrete sports area. He beckoned us in and greeted Sara with the usual SA greeting .... kiss on the cheek. I was introduced .... and greeted in a similar fashion. First time I've been been greeted by a school principal in such a fashion!!! Sara explained that I am a teacher visiting from Oz and would like to see how a class operates here ... could we visit the room. Well, not right then, but come back at 12 noon.

So we did, but we had to have the 'control' book with us or we wouldn't have been allowed in. We arrived at the room hile a science lesson was in progress ... I think. Took me a while to work out what was going on. Then it all changed. Another teacher arrived to take an English lesson. They were doing numbers from 11 to 20. At least I could communicate with the English teacher.

The room was ground floor ... bare concrete floor. Walls has some posters about science and maths topics. There was a large cupboard which appeared to contain class resources .... including roll of toilet paper which was collected by students when they left the room to go to the toilet. Desks were small, 2 person wooden tables painted brown, arranged in rows and chairs were small brown wooden ones. They had a new flat screen TV above the large blackboard, but it was covered, and apparently was new and hadn't been used. The teacher's desk, at the front of the room, was small... similar to student desks.

At 1pm, small plastic bags of milk and a bread roll were distributed to all students. ALL books were packed into school ports ... which were sitting under desks. Groups of older students were gathering outside the room ... I thought they were most likely siblings waiting to collect their younger brothers or sisters / this was a second grade class - students were around 7 yrs old. But NO.... this was the next class arriving for their school day. At 1pm, the first groups who have been there since 8am .... with only a 15 min break .... go home and the older students arrive for their school day .... probably until 6pm.

As we left the school, vendors with mobile carts were there to sell drinks, food, lollies etc to the kids, but there was also a guy with a wooden fram, and several small plastic bags containing goldfish for sale. Kids walked home or were picked up in motor taxis.

Later in the afternoon, the homework began, and I started to get a greater appreciation of how the school worked. The day is planned around 45 min periods - and students ONLY take to school the books required for that day. Sounds like what happens in high schools back home .... but these are second grade!!!! Five hours at school, with only one 15 min break!!!

From Peru 2 - 2009

Each subject has homework ... and in addition there is a weekly project ... which requires a great deal of parent input!!! The maths I saw included multiplication, division and fraction. The project for this week was about water filtration ... a model and experiment had to be created and demonstrated. On Friday, when the project was due... we were a bit late...around 8.15. The gates were shut, and apparently the director was addressing the students. Many students were also late, and lined up outside. When the talking finished, the gates opened, students filed in, but we weren't allowed in (we were acrrying all the bits for the science project). Eventually we were allowed through the solid steel gate, but had to wait by the gate. After a short time we were allowed to speak with the director in the middle of the concrete area. Usual greeting all around along with much loud talking ... by him, and a few parents also carring objects for their children. BUT ... there was no way he was allowing any of the group to go to classrooms .... our items were taken by the groundsman, or cleaner ... and delivered.

One other day, the students were to go home at 11am ... apparently there was a teachers' meeting after that.

ALL very interesting.

Party time in Lima .... and do they know how to party!!!

Last night we went to a double party ... seventh birthday for Milka's niece and fifth wedding anniversary for her cousin (the birthday girl's parents). What a night!!! The birthday party was first ... starting at 7pm.... massive decorations, about 50 kids.... and their parents ....loud music ... all the usual party food etc ... then the clowns arrived – the entertainment wasn't a sit down affair. They revved the kids up ... with much dancing and jumping around, ... accompanied by whistles, blown in time with the thumping music (every one of the kids had one), as well as rattles, balloons, glow sticks, pinata full of toys, birthday cake etc... At 9pm, when the kids left, the place was cleared ready for the adult's party. A live band arrived, ready to start playing sometime after 11pm. Groups of people arrived, food was served, and a Peruvian custom for drinks began ..... a small jug containing a mixture of wine and pisco along with a very small glass began to bee passed around. A person pours a small amount into the glass, then passes the jug on to another person – usually someone they wish to 'have cheers with'. That person holds on to the jug until the glass has been emptied and passed to them. And so it goes..... A similar process worked with a small flask of straight pisco, and a small jug of cubra libre (usually rum, coke and lime .... although I think this was just rum and lime juice).

About the same time as the band started (LOUD music.... PA system, HUGE speakers, and really LOUD Peruvian MC), a couple of plastic crates of beer (tallies) were carried in and distributed around the groups ..... one bottle and one glass per group. Same process worked for the beer too .... and interestingly, the person holding the bottle .... waiting for the glass, waited patiently, never drinking from the bottle.

Once the band stared, and music began thumping out ... dancing began.... Latin American style. Boy ... these people can dance!!! The music and dancing continued until 3.30am.... the band packed up and left. At that point, the stereo started .... even LOUDER!!! Streets are narrow and neighbours are very close .... no-one would have got any sleep, but no-one complained. Definitely NOT like Australia. There was no group of males around the keg outside either!!! Everybody was dancing.... Throughout the night, as 2 crates of empties were filled, someone would take them out the door .... and reappear shortly after with 2 full crates ..... even at 5am!!!!! I asked about this sometime later ... and the beer was purchased from a local shop.... whenever needed. Some service!

We left for home around 5.30am.... the crowd had dwindled, but the music was still thumping out and people were still dancing!!!!

No wonder Milka says she doesn't want to come to Australia because we don't dance much. Maybe she is right!!!

BTW ... the family next door looks like having a party tonight. There's an arch of pink balloons around the doorway. Maybe we won't get much sleep tonight .... (we share a wall). OH... the PA system has just started .... and the thumping music ..... arreba, areba!!!!!!! )

Reflections of Lima

What a mixture ... in some ways, Lima is a HUGE city(over 9 million people apparently ) with some very modern areas as well as beautiful historic areas - beautiful plazas, elaborate balconies, well-maintained parks (people don't walk on the grass areas) ... and particularly the Parque de Luz – park of Lights, which has magnificent fountains with light and laser show. Spectacular ... and definitely worth a visit ... for 4 sole entry!!

From Peru 2 - 2009

But traffic is chaotic!!! We travelled home by local bus. Buses can be 3 lanes wide and passengers, or would be passengers need to dodge through choked lanes of buses to get on of off their bus in the middle of the road. Some of the buses are modern, but many appear to be very old indeed. All traffic weaves back and forth across 3, 4 or 5 lanes of constantly beeping, bumper to bumper traffic.... Well out of the city area, the road is shared with motor-taxis (like the tuk-tuks in Asia). Not sure what 'peak hour' is here.... but we struck traffic like this at 10pm on the night we arrived ..... as well as earlier on other nights.

In the suburban areas, not far out of the city, street vendors line the streets – even at night time. Many hot food stalls seem to become social meeting places. While there are very modern shopping areas, these local market areas are a way of life in Peru... something that seems to be valued and desirable as a cheaper way to purchase items, and probably necessary where wages are not so good.

Grande Familia .... Milka´s suegra meets more of the family

Met more of Milka's family today ... I met aunts, uncles, cousins as well as Milka's grandmother, who is 91, and has difficulty hearing. What an interesting lunch experience it was ... being the only English speaker in a room full of Spanish speakers. The air was filled with lots of laughter, and lots of very fast Spanish voices. Most of what was spoken went over my head, but I found myself laughing along with them – laughter was so contagious.

But they are incredibly welcoming and friendly ... in fact we are invited back for a family party this Friday.

From Peru 2 - 2009

Looking from the outside ..... to see the main gate of the prison

There's a prison near where we are staying in Lima and when they asked if I wanted to see the main gate to the prison ... I thought ... a gate is a gate ... do I want to see a gate.... not really. But apparently this is worth seeing ... so off we went.

The corner of the street leading up to the gate was filled with vendor's stalls and I innocently (or ignorantly) said...'Oh .. another market.' and Milka said, 'Similar'. We wandered along through the stalls selling food items , drinks, fruit, hot food as well as skirts and sandals. Milka explained that the skirts and sandals are for sale as well as for rent ... by women visiting the jail as they aren't allowed in wearing jeans or closed-in shoes. What an innocent, protected life I lead.

As we got further along the rows of stalls the crowd was thicker ... and the girls whispered amongst themselves and directed me onto the street . .. away, apparently from the long queue that was waiting to enter the prison for visiting day. Today it was women's visiting day, and the area was filled with women and children laden with bags of food and personal items to be taken into the prison. Obviously, given my previous faux pas with photos, we kept the camera well hidden – so no photos of the prison gate ... or the crowds outside

Long bus trip .... and more

One day when I'm back home I plan to check out the road from Cusco to Lima via Ica on Google Earth .... I'm sure it's as picturesque as other trips over the mountains that we've taken, but my experience was somewhat different.

Milka and I took a night bus ... so we were never going to see very much. The bus was very comfortable ...only 3 seats across (2 + 1) – almost horizontal recline, blanket and pillow supplied, good meals – we even got earphones and toothbrushes. But the road was very twisty!!! We seemed to be coming down the mountain FOREVER!!!! I awoke from 'bus-sleep' early dawn, and through slightly open curtains could see some of the landscape. We were winding our way across the top of a very high plain. I couldn't believe that we were still soooo high!! As we continued our torturous descent, my stomach began the journey up, and we still had 3-4 more hours to go. We'd been on several bus trips in recent weeks ... but nothing affected me like this one – it must be an amazing road .... one I will have to see on Google Earth. Our return to Cusco will be a flight!!!!

We got off the bus in Ica, then took a local bus to Paracas (about 50km). Ica is in a valley in what looks like a desert. It's amazing to see crops and particularly grapes growing in pure sand.

Milka has a block of land near Paracas – an new area of land has been released ... and for a small amount of money, blocks can be obtained, some improvements are required and someone needs to live there .... but there are no services!! Eventually, when more people live in the area, services will be provided. Not quite the way development happens in our world ... but also VERY different amounts of money involved. So Milka's mum lives out there part of the time ... to help meet the requirements. It's a way for Milka to eventually have land in her name, something that is not as common as home.

The area could be described as ... sandy beach area (apparently 8km from the coast), views of sand dunes, rich soil (can grow anything ... when you get rid of the salt ... and if you can provide enough water) ... there is water to the area .... 1 tap for all.

From Peru 2 - 2009

I think she is a special lady .... don't think I could live out there. We were picked up from the bus by Milka's uncle who also lives out there with his wife. His car has to be seen to be believed ... even older and more dilapidated than Cusco taxis ... station wagon, but didn't need to open the back for our bags ... they went in the front where the passenger seat used to be. He filled the oil and put a bit of fuel in the tank, and we were off.... LOUDLY ... at a walking pace. About 4-6kms, we turned off the bitumen and took a sandy track for 20-25 minutes.

The 'house' is basic one room ... but from others I've seen, this is 'grande' ... solid timber (not woven straw). The also have a few other common structures – kitchen as well as animal enclosures.

In years to come .... this place may well be something else!!!

Late in the afternoon, we went back to the highway and waited for a bus to Lima, 245kms, which took more than 4 hours.

As a local bus, it made frequent stops to pick up and drop off passengers as well as numerous vendors who hop on the bus and travel between stops .... hawking things like drinks, sandwiches, lollies, fruit, jellies etc.

In Lima with my daughter in law

We are still in Lima with Milka's grande familia ... and she's doing an amazing job translating for me. Everything .... EVERYTHING is very different!!! Will try to record some of these experiences, but photos will have to wait.

We're at the airport this morning to see Jeff and Jill before they return to OZ ... and since our laptop is sooo small, we have it with us ... hence this brief message.

Festival day is Cusco

Collected a September calendar from Tourist Information office in Cusco - lists all the festivals for the month- and discovered that there was a festival in Cusco Saturday for World Tourism Day. Then we discovered that Milka was participating in the parade with her Tourism school. Awesome ... and so that we didn't miss a good vantage spot, we started reasonably early with breakfast at Jack's ... anyone who's been to Cusco will know about Jacks... and luck was on our side and we didn't have to queue at the door.

Got a good vantage spot around 11am - people at the tourist office thought the parade started at 10am ... Milka was told to be there around 1pm... so we weren't taking any chances. It was the hottest day yet in SA... and we were in full sun, on the top of the stand in the plaza... awesome.

People watching was very interesting .... lots of hat sellers (yes we bought more hats), ice blocks, drinks, food as well as the usual tourist items.

Around 11.30 the first of the groups entered the plaza. Apparently they had assembled and marched from a long way up the hill through several other plazas before reaching Plaza de Aramas. The whole parade was very colourful and at times quite loud. A fantastic spectacle as various groups danced their way through the streets. Zac joined us and got frequent updates from Milka ... we're about 30 mins away ... Not quite. About 4pm, Milka's school group entered the plaza ... they were awesome. Two groups dresses in either orange or green predominately led the group and danced back and forth in front of us, then another group in assorted costumes representing various cultural groups and areas carried colourful strips of material representing the Cusco flag. Milka was dressed in a costume from the jungle where she was born. Lucky it was a warm day ... but I'm sure many others sweltered in teir thick, dark, multi;lyered costumes.

BTW ... today I am taking a bus with Milk ... we're going to Lima for a few days. I also have a Spanish dictionary with me ... as Lex is staying here with Zac. Should be fun. Jeff and Jill got an early start this morning - they have hired a car and are taking a road trip to visit some alpaca places. Another adventure...

We made it home

Our 5 hour bus ride back to Cusco turned out to be an 8 hour ride. It seems our new tour guide did OK, although there was one occasion where the words 'stick with us, we'll show you a good time' were echoing in our ears. Not far out of Puno, we struck some roadworks. The side-track was 'cross-country' ... across the flat. There was congestion as trucks, buses and cars from both directions pushed forward. Our driver obviously took the wrong path .... through very slippery mud from previous night's rain, and we started to slide ... sideways!!!

A couple of guys on the roadside smiled and lay back on the bank to watch the spectacle ....I thought we could be stuck for a while. Bus boys hopped out and started gathering stones to put under the back wheels and just ahead of us the path was blocked by a truck. The scene didn't look promising, but before too long we were inching our way forward and onto firmer ground.... and on our way again.

The bus stopped at Juliaca around 10.30am, and we considered buying something from the ladies lined up outside the bus station fence, with arms stretched through the fence holding their wares.... plastic bags of coloured liquid or buns, empanadas or similar .... we couldn't be sure. At an earlier stop, women had been selling plastic bags of potatoes and cheese or trout, potatoes and rice. We were thinking ... 5 hours ... our water should be enough. More than 6 hours on the road, at a control point stop, more bags of unknown food were proffered to bus patrons. From other scenes around that area, we think the item might have been pork crackling.

From Puno to Cusco, we passed through high flat plains beside Lake Titikaka, though valleys surrounded by high peaks, over ranges between he valleys – there's always something interesting to see. In the fertile valleys, intensive agriculture is mostly done by hand, and on the higher plains cattle, sheep or alpacas graze, usually tended by a herder. Mud brick is the most common building material .. and in some areas newly made bricks are laid out too dry.

Streets of towns we passed though around 1pm were filled with children coming out of school – kids all dressed in school uniforms, often making purchases from local street vendors on their way. We've been told on more than one occasion (and in more than one country) that school starts at 7.30 and goes until 1pm when the kids come home ... that would give 5 hrs of tuition with half hour break. Kids have to take all their books home, because the classrooms are used by other classes during the afternoon. Interesting...

We finished our day with lunch at Two Nations restaurant (run by an Aussie) in Cusco (around 6pm). Promised Aussie Burgers will have to wait for another day ... as the rest of the menu was too enticing.

Note to self.... don't believe a lady in the boot when she tells you the bus trip from Puno to Cusco takes 5 hours .... it's definitely more like 8 hours!!!

A day on the lake

Lake Titikaka is one of those special places. It's a HUGE lake shared between Peru and Bolivia - the floating islands of Uros and Taquile Is are both on the Peruvian side. Our trip visited both these areas - the floating islands are not far from Puno, but Taquile Is is some distance.

Tourism is their main source of income. There are so many boats making these trips and the island people are well prepared for visitors. Boats visit different islands in the Uros group - we were met by the family, treated to an explanation of how the islands are built and how they live and trade, before being invited to look around their small island and into their homes. One man (can't remember his name ... only his son's name - Frank) invited us into his one room home - half of it was taken up with a bed. He explained that the house is small because it is easier to warm a small room.

Meanwhile the women are outside with their handicrafts are spread out for sale. Earlier they asked us not to give their children money as it sets up a bad precedent where they will expect it in future - best way to help is to buy some of their handicrafts. We did.

We also took a ride in one of their reed boats ... to another island. Boats last for 2 years .. and interestingly they contain 2000 plastic soft drink bottles to give the flotation. Great recycling...

Next on to Taquille island ... brisk uphill walk to our lunch venue. Long tables were set up near a group of family homes ... not in the township. We were treated to loacl music dancing ... some of the group even got to join in the dancing - not bad at altitude (says Jill), before a lunch of quinoua soup followed by grilled trout, rice and papas fritas. DELICIOUS.

Then up to the top of the village .... more steep uphill, and only a short time to look around and make some purchases. Suffice to say here, Peruvians are extremely reluctant to take American dollars which have even the slightest rip, tear or mark!!!

Long boat ride home ...and the wind and swell made it even longer, I think.

Back to Cusco today.....

Nancy in the boot ... turns up a gem.

Remember the lady who met us at the bus station (touting) - well she met us at the hotel yesterday morning to escort us to the port for our day trip on Lake Titikaka ... once again travelling in the boot. She's arranged our bus tickets for today, so she will meet us this morning for our trip to the bus station and will most likely travel in to boot again ... along with our growing luggage - can't be comfortable.

BUT ... the boat trip she organised for us yesterday turned up a real find. Jeff (the alpaca breeder) has been trying to find out about a particular alpaca place between Puno and Cusco (won't even try to spell it) ... and whilst talking to our guide for the day ... who had to say everything twice ... in Spanish and English.. we discovered she comes from a small (very small village) with the same name. Amazing - we had searched the internet for info ... but nothing.

We got talking with her about her village ... which she only visits once a year - in December and January during the rainy season so she can help her family on the farm. To get there she travels part way by bus and then she has to take a donkey or a llama the rest of the way.

She and Jeff also talked about alpacas ... it seems the shear their alpacas by hand ...not with shears but using tin from sardine tins. Life is certainly different over here.

We made it to Puno

I'm sure you're all waiting to hear that news!!!!

We even managed a taxi ride ... with an extra person ... to a hotel.... negotiated a better price ... after we asked about wifi from our room (we are feeling starved without ready internet access) and then after we settled in to our room ... moved to ones with wifi.

The extra passenger.... well as we came through Puno bus station we were approached by a woman - thought she may have been touting for hotels etc, and it seems she was. First told us how much a taxi would cost to town, asked about hotels and suggested some but we had Zac's recommendation in mind. She escorted us out to our taxi and told him where we wanted to go, helped us pile our bags into the back (we now have an extra bag so the count was 2 big bags, 2 medium bags, and 3 back packs), and then she squeezed in as well. Must have been very uncomfortable.

We booked a tour with her to the islands tomorrow.... so she got something for her trouble.

“Stick with us. We'll show you a good time.”

The above statement came from Jeff and Lex ... as we headed out of La Paz this morning.

They had bought tickets the previous day ... to Puno, and returned feeling very chuffed with their achievements!! Bus going to Puno (tick), Good bus (Cama ... should be lay back seats) (tick) Good seats – not next to the toilet (tick), Good price – 240 Bolivianos for 4 of us ... that's less than $10 each (tick) and a reasonable start time at the station at 8am (tick).

Was this the bus we would be travelling on?? No comment.....

From Peru 2 - 2009

Well we were at the station anxiously waiting to see this bus .... short delay, and we were on. Promised 'GOOD' seats didn't turn out so good. Yes they were front row, which on a double decker would mean great views, but front row on a single level bus is behind the driver's cabin which is secluded by curtains ... so we only had limited side views.

No problem ... most of the valley was covered in haze this morning so the view wasn't that good anyway. El Alto is the bustling satellite city at the top of the valley .... and it was very busy. Stopped for a fuel stop somewhere along El Alto .... no sooner got going then we did a U turn and entered the fuel stop on the opposite side of the road. Weren't there long and we took off again ... back towards La Paz one hour after leaving it. No explanation ... one of the passengers came forward and tapped on the conductor's door ... and although we couldn't understand the exchange, we gathered from what was said by her and other passengers we were headed back to La Paz.

Well not quite ... another turn and we realised we were headed for Uyuni .... remember the nightmare night bus ride??? None of us were keen to do that again. After 4 stops to try to refuel this bus .... many back streets and U-turns, we ended up back at the second fuel stop we'd made .... and waited in line. It was now more than 2 hours since leaving La Paz, and the conductor came through with a bag of empanadas and plastic cups. Naturally we took what was offered ... but the looks on our faces were priceless when he produced a thermos container that looked more like a fuel can and poured steamy yellow liquid into each of the cups.

There was a long pause as we each waited to see who would taste the liquid first. It turned out to be very sweet tea. We were fit to burst by this stage ... and Jeff says “Stick with us. Didn't we say we'd show you a good time!” Jeff even added a nip of ron (rum) to his to make it more palatable ... not!

And I could hear Zac whispering in my ear ....'That's Bolivia!'

Great to get news of Dea and Jothy's baby at this stage of our journey. Congratulations to all, and thanks for getting the news to us.

Eventually we were on our way ... and managed the border crossing, quite uneventfully. We even caught up with the Tucan bus which was leaving La Paz about the same time and were including the tour of Tiwinaku. The border was sooo much less chaotic than last time wee were here ... not a market day, so queues were short and our entry to Peru went smoothly.

Yes Milka ... we can do it. We did it!

Check back later for photos .....

Highlights from La paz

We had a day in La Paz on our own – but we managed to fill it up with shopping. Things in Bolivia are very cheap ... particularly if you earn your money in Au dollars and spend it in Bolivianos. Thee exchange rate of Bolivianos to US$ is about 7 to 1. So a meal costing around 45 Bs would be less than $8 US so a bit more in Aussie money.

Also seems ridiculous to be bargaining the price of items down ... such as reducing thee price of a bag down from 45Bs to 40 Bs ... but we do it. Item is still less than $10

Streets in certain areas of the city are huge market areas – some selling tourist type items, but we also went through a huge area of local markets selling clothing, food, shoes as well as grog. Stalls selling similar items or services are all grouped together. Some traders have shops but many, many more are set up on stands in the street. At night, everything gets packed away or wrapped up using plastic tarps.

Many street traders are selling drinks or juice. They usually have a few glasses filled ready to go. These need to be consumed at the stall, but if you want a take-away, you get it in a small plastic bag tied at the top – was reminded about these this morning at the bus station, when I saw a girl with plastic bag full of yellow liquid and a straw sticking out of the top. Seems to be common in Peru and Bolivia.