Have uploaded LOTS of pictures today from Uyuni and our salt adventures - Click on the slide show to view them. No pictures from La Paz yet. Going out soon to check out some more of the town.
Bye to all - hope you are enjoying our trip too...
Monday, August 31, 2009
Another night bus
We topped off our Uyuni visit with a fantastic pizza dinner at the hotel restaurant – Minuteman Pizza ... Pizza with Altitude 3670m. Been there – done that - Bought a T-Shirt. Really was the best pizza we've had in South America. Great food, great atmosphere and really friendly staff.
Shouldn't have enjoyed so much pizza and vino tinto ... because we followed our dinner with an overnight bus to La Paz – not so bad ... but about half the trip was on the roughest road ever. Worse than the Mistake Creek road ... or any other we have travelled on in Australia. We were sitting in the FRONT row on the TOP deck, so had a great view of the road ... when a view was possible through the clouds of dust. I should say that Lex had a great view, because I pulled the curtain across my view!!!! He reckons the 'road' ran along a creek bed for parts of the way. The vibrations (is there a stronger word than this???) shook everything ... moving our shoes and Jeff's laptop several rows back. They were lucky to rescue the laptop just before it slid down the stairs 2 rows behind their seat.
We arrived in La Paz just before daylight ... 11 hours on the bus and not game to brave the bus toilet ... the lights of this city from El Alto .. the top of the valley... is spectacular but not as good as the daylight view in my opinion.
Zac and Milka caught up with some sleep while we explored the streets and markets with Lex as the Tour Guide. I had remembered Zac's warnings from our previous trip – remove jewellery – carry as little as possible – be careful about people's sensitivities when taking pictures.
But we still drew attention to ourselves.
We wandered through market areas – tourist markets, witches markets (with all the llama fetuses etc) as well as local markets – clothing, food, party things etc. The scenes of bags stuffed with all sorts of items, people loaded with large heavy bags on their backs, babies sleeping amidst the goods or playing in cardboard boxes beside the stall, all the women in their colourful skirts, shawls and hats .... we just had to sneak a few snaps.
A local said something to us about 'la bolsa' – wasn't sure if he was warning us to be careful about the small bag containing a few purchases or to put the camera in the bag (balsa). But I put the camera away anyway ... to be on the safe side. Traffic around this area is chaotic with stalls set up on the roadway, pedestrians all over the roadway and cars and small minivans (buses) ploughing on through. Crossing these roads is a nightmare – and can only be achieved in stages, leaving us stranded in the middle of traffic often.
So when a group of local police ran passed me down the road and stopped the others (Lex, Jeff and Jill) .... with conversation in broken English and Spanish ... we were left wondering if we were being chatted because of – jay walking – taking photos in sensitive areas or violating peoples' privacy... or warning us about being in dangerous areas.
We hung about the street a bit longer (we weren't far from our hotel by this stage) as Jeff was getting his glasses fixed, and the group of police also remained in the area ... watching us. Not for long, because they approached us again, this time with an officer who could speak English. He explained that the area we'd been in was not safe for tourists – thieves, bag snatchers etc, and they wanted to warn us to be careful. They also asked if we needed help (as we hadn't moved on). They were very friendly and very caring about our safety.
Needless to say, Zac's reaction was a classic .... Mum, didn't I tell you to be careful about taking photos ... etc, etc, etc. Who's lecturing who now???
Next time we went out we went with Zac and Milka (our guardians).
Will be different today though ... as Zac and Milka have caught a plane back to Cusco - some people have to work, while we will stay in La Paz for another day before heading off to Puno. Should be interesting .... a border crossing on our own - without Zac.
Wait for the next entry .... hope there is a next!!!!
Shouldn't have enjoyed so much pizza and vino tinto ... because we followed our dinner with an overnight bus to La Paz – not so bad ... but about half the trip was on the roughest road ever. Worse than the Mistake Creek road ... or any other we have travelled on in Australia. We were sitting in the FRONT row on the TOP deck, so had a great view of the road ... when a view was possible through the clouds of dust. I should say that Lex had a great view, because I pulled the curtain across my view!!!! He reckons the 'road' ran along a creek bed for parts of the way. The vibrations (is there a stronger word than this???) shook everything ... moving our shoes and Jeff's laptop several rows back. They were lucky to rescue the laptop just before it slid down the stairs 2 rows behind their seat.
We arrived in La Paz just before daylight ... 11 hours on the bus and not game to brave the bus toilet ... the lights of this city from El Alto .. the top of the valley... is spectacular but not as good as the daylight view in my opinion.
Zac and Milka caught up with some sleep while we explored the streets and markets with Lex as the Tour Guide. I had remembered Zac's warnings from our previous trip – remove jewellery – carry as little as possible – be careful about people's sensitivities when taking pictures.
But we still drew attention to ourselves.
We wandered through market areas – tourist markets, witches markets (with all the llama fetuses etc) as well as local markets – clothing, food, party things etc. The scenes of bags stuffed with all sorts of items, people loaded with large heavy bags on their backs, babies sleeping amidst the goods or playing in cardboard boxes beside the stall, all the women in their colourful skirts, shawls and hats .... we just had to sneak a few snaps.
A local said something to us about 'la bolsa' – wasn't sure if he was warning us to be careful about the small bag containing a few purchases or to put the camera in the bag (balsa). But I put the camera away anyway ... to be on the safe side. Traffic around this area is chaotic with stalls set up on the roadway, pedestrians all over the roadway and cars and small minivans (buses) ploughing on through. Crossing these roads is a nightmare – and can only be achieved in stages, leaving us stranded in the middle of traffic often.
So when a group of local police ran passed me down the road and stopped the others (Lex, Jeff and Jill) .... with conversation in broken English and Spanish ... we were left wondering if we were being chatted because of – jay walking – taking photos in sensitive areas or violating peoples' privacy... or warning us about being in dangerous areas.
We hung about the street a bit longer (we weren't far from our hotel by this stage) as Jeff was getting his glasses fixed, and the group of police also remained in the area ... watching us. Not for long, because they approached us again, this time with an officer who could speak English. He explained that the area we'd been in was not safe for tourists – thieves, bag snatchers etc, and they wanted to warn us to be careful. They also asked if we needed help (as we hadn't moved on). They were very friendly and very caring about our safety.
Needless to say, Zac's reaction was a classic .... Mum, didn't I tell you to be careful about taking photos ... etc, etc, etc. Who's lecturing who now???
Next time we went out we went with Zac and Milka (our guardians).
Will be different today though ... as Zac and Milka have caught a plane back to Cusco - some people have to work, while we will stay in La Paz for another day before heading off to Puno. Should be interesting .... a border crossing on our own - without Zac.
Wait for the next entry .... hope there is a next!!!!
Sunday, August 30, 2009
So much sal!!!
Arrived in Uyuni around 2am ... piled into a taxi – all 6 of us, 5 big bags, 4 backpacks.... (Hey this is Bolivia isn't it.) and then checked into a hotel ... across the road from the Bolivian Army Barracks .. so NO FOTOS there – in fact signs all around the hotel warn people against taking photos in the military zone.
Zac has a great rapport with hotel and restaurant staff so we were treated to a superb breakfast ... even brought out the large jar of vegemite for us. We had a tour of the salt flats booked, so around 10.30am we headed out in a 4-wheel drive – 6 of us, a driver and a cook ... lunch was provided.
Stopped at a small village on the edge of the salt flat ... explanation of their process for drying and packaging salt – all done by hand, and a look around a few market stalls – few salt carved products which were interesting. Wonder how they will stand up to a bit of humidity.
Next stop was a train cemetery ... not sure of the history, but there was talk about Butch Cassidy county.
Now for a drive out onto the salt flat ... which is so much smoother than the rough dirt road we had driven on to get there. But why would you keep driving further out into the salt flat (I thinks to meself ... afterall it{s all the same). But keep driving we did ... miles. Then we stopped for a photo shoot ... well playing around on the salt flat.... now this was more like it. May have to wait for the best of those pics ... they are still on Zac{s camera. (oops... I am on a Spanish keyboard in and Internet Cafe .. no wifi in our hotel, sadly)
Then we kept driving... to an island in the salt. Looked as deserted as the rest ... had only seen a few vehicles ... but around the back of the island... and it was like being on Fraser ... lots of 4-wheel drives all parked up to the island ... and loads of people sitting at picnic tables ... made from salt.
It wasn{t long until our picnic was ready too and we sat down to chicken and salad, which we followed up with a walk around the island, more photos with HUGE cactus plants ... then more playing around on the salt.
It was another amazing, amazing day ... and so much more than had expected. Just like every other day.
More to write about our next adventure ... we are in La Paz now ... and there{s lots to go and look at so more will have to wait until later.... Bye.
Zac has a great rapport with hotel and restaurant staff so we were treated to a superb breakfast ... even brought out the large jar of vegemite for us. We had a tour of the salt flats booked, so around 10.30am we headed out in a 4-wheel drive – 6 of us, a driver and a cook ... lunch was provided.
Stopped at a small village on the edge of the salt flat ... explanation of their process for drying and packaging salt – all done by hand, and a look around a few market stalls – few salt carved products which were interesting. Wonder how they will stand up to a bit of humidity.
Next stop was a train cemetery ... not sure of the history, but there was talk about Butch Cassidy county.
Now for a drive out onto the salt flat ... which is so much smoother than the rough dirt road we had driven on to get there. But why would you keep driving further out into the salt flat (I thinks to meself ... afterall it{s all the same). But keep driving we did ... miles. Then we stopped for a photo shoot ... well playing around on the salt flat.... now this was more like it. May have to wait for the best of those pics ... they are still on Zac{s camera. (oops... I am on a Spanish keyboard in and Internet Cafe .. no wifi in our hotel, sadly)
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| From Peru - 2009 |
Then we kept driving... to an island in the salt. Looked as deserted as the rest ... had only seen a few vehicles ... but around the back of the island... and it was like being on Fraser ... lots of 4-wheel drives all parked up to the island ... and loads of people sitting at picnic tables ... made from salt.
It wasn{t long until our picnic was ready too and we sat down to chicken and salad, which we followed up with a walk around the island, more photos with HUGE cactus plants ... then more playing around on the salt.
It was another amazing, amazing day ... and so much more than had expected. Just like every other day.
More to write about our next adventure ... we are in La Paz now ... and there{s lots to go and look at so more will have to wait until later.... Bye.
Bolivia... we made it. Another border crossing.
Leaving Salta... and Argentina today. First stage is by bus to a town on the Argentinian border – La Quiacha. Once again we passed through spectacular scenery, climbed the mountains before travelling across the high pampa flatlands. I's not difficult to imagine how this mountainous area came about ... all the layers show how the landscape was formed as well as the movement and turmoil that must have taken place millions of years ago. The vertical, angular as well as rolling strata layers (if that's the right terminology) is really amazing.
At the border, we collected our luggage, enlisted the services of a local and his taxi-barrow to carry our gear the several hundred yards from the bus station .... through the township, and the border crossing ... to the Bolivian side.
Well, we were now at 3700m ... and feeling the altitude on the brisk walk trying to keep up with our barrow pusher .. an elderly, small but sprightly man. Once we arrived at the Border Control checkpoint, we joined the line of people waiting to have passports stamped, while our barrow pusher took the luggage along the roadway to the other side of the building ... and waited. This was a rather anxious time .. the line we were in wasn't moving, while a steady steam of locals and what looked like large groups of tourists filed straight past us and the checkpoint. At first we weren't able to see our barrow pusher or luggage, and there was much joking about whether he would wait to be paid the 10 Bolivianos promised ... or nicked off and sold our luggage for considerably more.
But he appeared at the other side of the building ... waiting and watching for us – rather hoped he might be watching our luggage. Zac had planned the trip to allow about 3 hours to get through both crossings and on to the station for the train leg.... but with talk of closing the office for lunch on top of the time we had already waited ... we surged towards the window ... Zac handed over all passports for us like a tour group ... and suddenly we were through. Lucky, 'cos Jill was freaking out about not having the Argentinian entry form that we completed on entering Argentina ... and which is collected when you leave the country. Not her fault ... cos the border guard on entry kept both copies of her form ... and we were told not to worry about it ... I'm sure she did.
On to the border ... show passports again and explain that our barrow pusher had our luggage ... and yes it was all clothes (ropas). Yes our barrow pusher was still there with ALL of our bags - woohoo.
Now to enter Bolivia ... more queues ... and forms. The queue was huge .... but this time it looked like locals, not tourists – so we followed Zac into the the office – completed our entry forms, had passports stamped ... and entered Bolivia.
Our barrow pusher, unfortunately couldn't go any further so our luggage was unloaded from the Argentinian barrow to a Bolivian barrow – the station was supposedly only 6 blocks from there ... and a price was negotiated.
Nearly got myself into some really hot water at this point ... boys went off to change some money, and I stepped back to take a photo of Jill and Milka with our barrow load of luggage on the Bolivian side ... when one of the other barrow pushers started shouting, jumping about wielding a lump of wood ... and apparently threatening to kick me. i got the message that he didn't want me to take a photo ... even though the camera wasn't pointed at him ... so I took refuge with the guys ... in the Cambio, leaving Milka and Jill to guard our load with our new Bolivian barrow pusher – who turned out to be a real whinger. Yes, he did have to push uphill, and it was much more than 6 blocks – but he agreed to the price.
The station left much to be desired – nothing like bus stations which are full of people selling food, drinks etc. There was nothing there ... and nothing to indicate it was a station. Zac and Milka managed to get chicken, rice and chips for all back in town ... a very greasy birthday lunch which was supplemented by some beer and coke from the shop across the road. Beer, just off the shelf, was cold enough, but care was definitely needed when opening ... and effect of altitude.
A few more beers were acquired ... hasitly ... for the train trip only to find out that the sell beer on the train so don't permit BYOs. That didn't deter these three Aussie drinkers ... who had to hide their cans every time the Beer Police (aka guards) came through.
Writing this whilst on the train ... scenery continued to be spectacular, we've been served a meal ... fruit juice, black coffee, biscuits and butter and jam. YUM!! Another terrifiic birthday meal.
It's now dark, so we're unable to appreciate the scenery – movies are shown in Spanish, so might be time to catch some shut eye. I think we may be on the train until 1am ... time keeps creeping back, but the good thing is that we are booked in to a hotel for whatever time we arrive. Also have a tour booked to visit the salt flats in the morning .... and then a night bus for the long trio to La Paz .... which is even higher.
The adventure continues ... will try to upload whenever I can.
At the border, we collected our luggage, enlisted the services of a local and his taxi-barrow to carry our gear the several hundred yards from the bus station .... through the township, and the border crossing ... to the Bolivian side.
Well, we were now at 3700m ... and feeling the altitude on the brisk walk trying to keep up with our barrow pusher .. an elderly, small but sprightly man. Once we arrived at the Border Control checkpoint, we joined the line of people waiting to have passports stamped, while our barrow pusher took the luggage along the roadway to the other side of the building ... and waited. This was a rather anxious time .. the line we were in wasn't moving, while a steady steam of locals and what looked like large groups of tourists filed straight past us and the checkpoint. At first we weren't able to see our barrow pusher or luggage, and there was much joking about whether he would wait to be paid the 10 Bolivianos promised ... or nicked off and sold our luggage for considerably more.
But he appeared at the other side of the building ... waiting and watching for us – rather hoped he might be watching our luggage. Zac had planned the trip to allow about 3 hours to get through both crossings and on to the station for the train leg.... but with talk of closing the office for lunch on top of the time we had already waited ... we surged towards the window ... Zac handed over all passports for us like a tour group ... and suddenly we were through. Lucky, 'cos Jill was freaking out about not having the Argentinian entry form that we completed on entering Argentina ... and which is collected when you leave the country. Not her fault ... cos the border guard on entry kept both copies of her form ... and we were told not to worry about it ... I'm sure she did.
On to the border ... show passports again and explain that our barrow pusher had our luggage ... and yes it was all clothes (ropas). Yes our barrow pusher was still there with ALL of our bags - woohoo.
Now to enter Bolivia ... more queues ... and forms. The queue was huge .... but this time it looked like locals, not tourists – so we followed Zac into the the office – completed our entry forms, had passports stamped ... and entered Bolivia.
Our barrow pusher, unfortunately couldn't go any further so our luggage was unloaded from the Argentinian barrow to a Bolivian barrow – the station was supposedly only 6 blocks from there ... and a price was negotiated.
Nearly got myself into some really hot water at this point ... boys went off to change some money, and I stepped back to take a photo of Jill and Milka with our barrow load of luggage on the Bolivian side ... when one of the other barrow pushers started shouting, jumping about wielding a lump of wood ... and apparently threatening to kick me. i got the message that he didn't want me to take a photo ... even though the camera wasn't pointed at him ... so I took refuge with the guys ... in the Cambio, leaving Milka and Jill to guard our load with our new Bolivian barrow pusher – who turned out to be a real whinger. Yes, he did have to push uphill, and it was much more than 6 blocks – but he agreed to the price.
The station left much to be desired – nothing like bus stations which are full of people selling food, drinks etc. There was nothing there ... and nothing to indicate it was a station. Zac and Milka managed to get chicken, rice and chips for all back in town ... a very greasy birthday lunch which was supplemented by some beer and coke from the shop across the road. Beer, just off the shelf, was cold enough, but care was definitely needed when opening ... and effect of altitude.
A few more beers were acquired ... hasitly ... for the train trip only to find out that the sell beer on the train so don't permit BYOs. That didn't deter these three Aussie drinkers ... who had to hide their cans every time the Beer Police (aka guards) came through.
Writing this whilst on the train ... scenery continued to be spectacular, we've been served a meal ... fruit juice, black coffee, biscuits and butter and jam. YUM!! Another terrifiic birthday meal.
It's now dark, so we're unable to appreciate the scenery – movies are shown in Spanish, so might be time to catch some shut eye. I think we may be on the train until 1am ... time keeps creeping back, but the good thing is that we are booked in to a hotel for whatever time we arrive. Also have a tour booked to visit the salt flats in the morning .... and then a night bus for the long trio to La Paz .... which is even higher.
The adventure continues ... will try to upload whenever I can.
Thursday, August 27, 2009
Big day out ... more than wine tour
Another HUGE day today ... in Argentina. We set off reasonably early (7.30 is much earlier than we have been getting up lately ... but not as early as we need to be up tomorrow ... 4.30!!!) and didn't get home until 9pm.
We headed south from Salta for the wine area of Cafayate, 180km or so ... but it takes hours .. about 4 hours. 75 km through an amazing gorge ... spectacular rock formations and scenery. On the way out we stopped a couplee of times ... to take photos, but stopped for even more on the way home, when the light was better for photos.
At Cafayate, we visited 2 wineries, had a super lunch at a really nice hotel/hacienda, and a bit of time to browse around the plaza (and shops) while Zac and Milka went horse riding.
We're all tired tonight.... a pity it's too late for an early night (11pm here already), because we have to be out of here at 5am ... for the next stage of our mystery tour.
We have a bus trip to a touwn on this side of the Argentine-Bolivian border ... after that I understand we need to cross the border, possibly on foot, and then a train ride to somewhere in Bolivia .... our tour leader has told us to be prepared for a long train ride... and possibly cold conditions. So here we go again...
Thanks all for the birthday wishes. Celebrated my birthday today ... Australian time ... rather than tomorrow, witth a big travel (bus and train) day.
We headed south from Salta for the wine area of Cafayate, 180km or so ... but it takes hours .. about 4 hours. 75 km through an amazing gorge ... spectacular rock formations and scenery. On the way out we stopped a couplee of times ... to take photos, but stopped for even more on the way home, when the light was better for photos.
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| From Peru - 2009 |
At Cafayate, we visited 2 wineries, had a super lunch at a really nice hotel/hacienda, and a bit of time to browse around the plaza (and shops) while Zac and Milka went horse riding.
We're all tired tonight.... a pity it's too late for an early night (11pm here already), because we have to be out of here at 5am ... for the next stage of our mystery tour.
We have a bus trip to a touwn on this side of the Argentine-Bolivian border ... after that I understand we need to cross the border, possibly on foot, and then a train ride to somewhere in Bolivia .... our tour leader has told us to be prepared for a long train ride... and possibly cold conditions. So here we go again...
Thanks all for the birthday wishes. Celebrated my birthday today ... Australian time ... rather than tomorrow, witth a big travel (bus and train) day.
Wednesday, August 26, 2009
Argentinian experience
I'm sitting quietly in a bar ... with wireless internet access (and a nearby power point) and very thankful for this tiny (and often frustrating) laptop.
I've just had a visit from a young girl, who'd only be about 6 or 7 ... trying to sell a handful of socks and stockings. Last night we had a couple of young kids in the restaurant around 11pm (one was about 10 and he had his arm around a younger boy about 4 or 5) ... they were just asking for money. Restaurant owners seem to tolerate them for a short while and then usher them to the door.
Sad to see kids out in the streets and bars like that....
The Artesan shops have many of the same items as Peru and Chile ... (maybe) alpaca jumpers, scarves, beanies etc ... but there's also a lot of leather, slightly different ceramics, silver aand jewellery. They also don't seem to enter into haggling so much, although it does happen on the more expensive items. I usually think I should have bought things ... after we leave a place. I like to look at things, but I'm not much of a shopper, really. Does that surprise anyone?
Our hotel is right on the Plaza, where there is a magnificient Cathedral. it's painted pink and pale yellow, it looks spectacular all lit up at night, but while we have been here it has been full of large groups of school students. Groups flood into the plaza and then into the Cathedral - not sure how long they stay, but we've seen them going in in the morning, and throughout the day and even around 5pm. So we've been in a couple of times to check it out .... it is really spectacular - no photos sorry, and the singing that we've heard (with responses from students) is very moving.
Shopping here is interesting. Not sure what time shops open up as we haven't been up early - our room has no external window or light source, but everything seems to shut around 1pm or so and doesn't re-open until 5.30pm - then they are open until about 9 or 10pm. Difficult to get used to.
Tomorrow we have a wine tour planned ...mmmm should be good.
Peace and quiet has just been disturbed by loud bangs, rhythmic drumming and whistling. A small group of people in costume protesting .... about tourism I think.... Something to follow up on later
I've just had a visit from a young girl, who'd only be about 6 or 7 ... trying to sell a handful of socks and stockings. Last night we had a couple of young kids in the restaurant around 11pm (one was about 10 and he had his arm around a younger boy about 4 or 5) ... they were just asking for money. Restaurant owners seem to tolerate them for a short while and then usher them to the door.
Sad to see kids out in the streets and bars like that....
The Artesan shops have many of the same items as Peru and Chile ... (maybe) alpaca jumpers, scarves, beanies etc ... but there's also a lot of leather, slightly different ceramics, silver aand jewellery. They also don't seem to enter into haggling so much, although it does happen on the more expensive items. I usually think I should have bought things ... after we leave a place. I like to look at things, but I'm not much of a shopper, really. Does that surprise anyone?
Our hotel is right on the Plaza, where there is a magnificient Cathedral. it's painted pink and pale yellow, it looks spectacular all lit up at night, but while we have been here it has been full of large groups of school students. Groups flood into the plaza and then into the Cathedral - not sure how long they stay, but we've seen them going in in the morning, and throughout the day and even around 5pm. So we've been in a couple of times to check it out .... it is really spectacular - no photos sorry, and the singing that we've heard (with responses from students) is very moving.
Shopping here is interesting. Not sure what time shops open up as we haven't been up early - our room has no external window or light source, but everything seems to shut around 1pm or so and doesn't re-open until 5.30pm - then they are open until about 9 or 10pm. Difficult to get used to.
Tomorrow we have a wine tour planned ...mmmm should be good.
Peace and quiet has just been disturbed by loud bangs, rhythmic drumming and whistling. A small group of people in costume protesting .... about tourism I think.... Something to follow up on later
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
Across the Andes in a bus
We´re getting comfortable with bus travel here ... but still couldn´t do it without Zac.
Caught a bus from San Pedro ... forgot to tell you the bus office was closed when we got back from out sunset desert tour ... but Zac managed to phone the office ... meet the lady AND get the last 6 seats on the bus to Salta leaving 10.30 next morning. So here we were waiting for a bus in the middle of a dusty paddock, that served as the bus stop (he didn´t tell us how long the trip would take ... just that we would be going over 5000m so pack warm clothes for the bus. Certainly was a mystery tour).
Breakfast boxes are handed out - great because we´d had strange Chilean bread and bananas for breakfast ... don´t get too excited, it was juice and a couple of small biscuits. 200m down the road and we stop for the Chilean border control point. Paperwork handed out for the Argentinian border as well. We file out of the bus ... through the control point, passports stamped and back on the bus. Then we wait .... for about an hour ... someone´s documents weren´t right.
On for a couple of hours ... through amazing desert mountain scenery ... barren ... and going up ... up ... up... almost straight up the mountains. Then another stop ... for the Argentinian Border Control point. By now we were very high ... probably around 5000m ... and the wind chill factor was at freezing. And we felt it because the passport check point office was very small and they only allowed groups of 5 into the room at a time. VERY chilly. Then back to the bus ... pick up a lunch box ... biscuit, juice and fruit... and then another long wait. We were there just over 2 hours ... someone else hadn´t done their paperwork properly - more people on the bus than paperwork stamped!!!!
More spectacular scenery - small frozen patches on some peaks, frozen creeks and lakes on the high plains, some vicunas, alpacas --- but so little vegetation. Late afternoon, and we seemed to be going downhill forever and then we passed a sign .... 4100m. We were still way up in the Andes... and the mountains stretched forever before us. We were on TOP of the world.
Sadly were were losing light as we continued the descent down the other side - not that I like being on the window seat and looking down from such great heights - but it was truly spectacular (I was on the aisle seat). The mountains are massive, huge folds of land, deep gorges from thousands (probably millions) of years of erosion. We passed through deep canyons, down long, straight sections and eventually down zig-zag, multi-hairpin bends. Looking up, we had travelled down a long way ... looking forward, we were still above the further peaks.... and still the road wound down .... It was so breath-taking - just wish there were some pictures to so ... but the light was fading. And amazingly, as remote and barren as this area is, we passed the occassional dwelling ... or even a person walking along.
Finally thought we saw the bright lights of a city way off in the distance. Still more than an hour away.... and down, down ,down. I wouldn´t like to be driving this road myself, and was thankful for the skill of our driver as we swerved onto the gravel at a much lower altitude.
Town was Jujuy .... not Salta which was still anout hour and a half away.... and more down. Arrived at Salta ... late, think it was around 10.30pm ... Zac picked out a hotel from the people touting. Good find ... close to the plaza, negotiated the price DOWN ... 100 pesos per room per night (think that´s around $30) including bus transfers (2 taxis and the hotel paid), and breakfast. Not bad.
Checked in and then off to find a restaurant open at 11pm ... for some Argentinian beef. It was good!!!!
More later... have overstretched my free 15 minutes ... and I need to find a power adapter ´cos I didn´t bring the right ones ... the Australian ones for here! Buggar!!
Caught a bus from San Pedro ... forgot to tell you the bus office was closed when we got back from out sunset desert tour ... but Zac managed to phone the office ... meet the lady AND get the last 6 seats on the bus to Salta leaving 10.30 next morning. So here we were waiting for a bus in the middle of a dusty paddock, that served as the bus stop (he didn´t tell us how long the trip would take ... just that we would be going over 5000m so pack warm clothes for the bus. Certainly was a mystery tour).
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| From Peru - 2009 |
Breakfast boxes are handed out - great because we´d had strange Chilean bread and bananas for breakfast ... don´t get too excited, it was juice and a couple of small biscuits. 200m down the road and we stop for the Chilean border control point. Paperwork handed out for the Argentinian border as well. We file out of the bus ... through the control point, passports stamped and back on the bus. Then we wait .... for about an hour ... someone´s documents weren´t right.
On for a couple of hours ... through amazing desert mountain scenery ... barren ... and going up ... up ... up... almost straight up the mountains. Then another stop ... for the Argentinian Border Control point. By now we were very high ... probably around 5000m ... and the wind chill factor was at freezing. And we felt it because the passport check point office was very small and they only allowed groups of 5 into the room at a time. VERY chilly. Then back to the bus ... pick up a lunch box ... biscuit, juice and fruit... and then another long wait. We were there just over 2 hours ... someone else hadn´t done their paperwork properly - more people on the bus than paperwork stamped!!!!
More spectacular scenery - small frozen patches on some peaks, frozen creeks and lakes on the high plains, some vicunas, alpacas --- but so little vegetation. Late afternoon, and we seemed to be going downhill forever and then we passed a sign .... 4100m. We were still way up in the Andes... and the mountains stretched forever before us. We were on TOP of the world.
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| From Peru - 2009 |
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| From Peru - 2009 |
Sadly were were losing light as we continued the descent down the other side - not that I like being on the window seat and looking down from such great heights - but it was truly spectacular (I was on the aisle seat). The mountains are massive, huge folds of land, deep gorges from thousands (probably millions) of years of erosion. We passed through deep canyons, down long, straight sections and eventually down zig-zag, multi-hairpin bends. Looking up, we had travelled down a long way ... looking forward, we were still above the further peaks.... and still the road wound down .... It was so breath-taking - just wish there were some pictures to so ... but the light was fading. And amazingly, as remote and barren as this area is, we passed the occassional dwelling ... or even a person walking along.
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| From Peru - 2009 |
Finally thought we saw the bright lights of a city way off in the distance. Still more than an hour away.... and down, down ,down. I wouldn´t like to be driving this road myself, and was thankful for the skill of our driver as we swerved onto the gravel at a much lower altitude.
Town was Jujuy .... not Salta which was still anout hour and a half away.... and more down. Arrived at Salta ... late, think it was around 10.30pm ... Zac picked out a hotel from the people touting. Good find ... close to the plaza, negotiated the price DOWN ... 100 pesos per room per night (think that´s around $30) including bus transfers (2 taxis and the hotel paid), and breakfast. Not bad.
Checked in and then off to find a restaurant open at 11pm ... for some Argentinian beef. It was good!!!!
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| From Peru - 2009 |
More later... have overstretched my free 15 minutes ... and I need to find a power adapter ´cos I didn´t bring the right ones ... the Australian ones for here! Buggar!!
Monday, August 24, 2009
San Pedro de Atacama
... writing this from Salta, Argentina.... 3 countries in 3 days ... but that´s another story.
San Pedro first... sorry, pictures will have to wait.
Arrived in San Pedro by bus from Arica... not sure how long, but it was an overnight bus. We got on the bus around 10pm ... and arrived at San Pedro next morning sometime around 8 or 9 or 10am. Life is a blur. Another interesting bus trip. We had our big bags inspected and tagged at the bus station so when we arrived at a Control point somewhere in the middle of the night we only had to take our hand luggage off the bus... put it up on a bench and open the bags. No big deal, then back on the bus and back to sleep. We had our sleeping bags and were very comfortable - Semi-Cama bus and the seats recline well back.
The desert is spectacular. We must have climbed a long way up through the night - think Zac said we´d reach 5000m overnight, and then we went a long way down .... long, almost straight roads ... all the way to San Pedro.
Strange place ... reminds me a little of Lightning Ridge. All dwellings appear to be mud brick, low set and behind mud brick walls ... very dusty. Several touts for hostals met the bus, and Zac picked out a bargain for us ... 2 blocks (... plus) from the Plaza. That was an experience - bet you can´t wait to see the pictures of that place. ;-)
We took an afternoon tour to Moon Valley - included a walk through a Salt Canyon, a couple of other places and a sunset view of the desert from a high point ... which was a really hard climb - we were still at 2400m.
Once back in town Zac organised a bus out to Salta the next morning - so we settled in for a meal ... and a few Chilean reds to complete our visit to Chile. Jeff even managed to do some work on the hot water system ... on the roof of the hostal during the night.... No wonder there was no water for Milka´s shower the next morning.
Chile is so much more expensive than other places .... but it is also so much harder to get used to the currency - BIG numbers with lots of zeros. Toilet stop costs 200 pesos. Large french fries at Maccas in Arica was 900 pesos. Pizza for lunch at San Pedro was 8,500 pesos - think that´s about $17 US - change that to Peruvian soles and it´s about 51 soles .... expensive in Zac and Milka´s eyes when you consider we had meals in top class restaurant with fantastic service for 35 soles.
San Pedro first... sorry, pictures will have to wait.
Arrived in San Pedro by bus from Arica... not sure how long, but it was an overnight bus. We got on the bus around 10pm ... and arrived at San Pedro next morning sometime around 8 or 9 or 10am. Life is a blur. Another interesting bus trip. We had our big bags inspected and tagged at the bus station so when we arrived at a Control point somewhere in the middle of the night we only had to take our hand luggage off the bus... put it up on a bench and open the bags. No big deal, then back on the bus and back to sleep. We had our sleeping bags and were very comfortable - Semi-Cama bus and the seats recline well back.
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| From Peru - 2009 |
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| From Peru - 2009 |
The desert is spectacular. We must have climbed a long way up through the night - think Zac said we´d reach 5000m overnight, and then we went a long way down .... long, almost straight roads ... all the way to San Pedro.
Strange place ... reminds me a little of Lightning Ridge. All dwellings appear to be mud brick, low set and behind mud brick walls ... very dusty. Several touts for hostals met the bus, and Zac picked out a bargain for us ... 2 blocks (... plus) from the Plaza. That was an experience - bet you can´t wait to see the pictures of that place. ;-)
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| From Peru - 2009 |
We took an afternoon tour to Moon Valley - included a walk through a Salt Canyon, a couple of other places and a sunset view of the desert from a high point ... which was a really hard climb - we were still at 2400m.
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| From Peru - 2009 |
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| From Peru - 2009 |
Once back in town Zac organised a bus out to Salta the next morning - so we settled in for a meal ... and a few Chilean reds to complete our visit to Chile. Jeff even managed to do some work on the hot water system ... on the roof of the hostal during the night.... No wonder there was no water for Milka´s shower the next morning.
Chile is so much more expensive than other places .... but it is also so much harder to get used to the currency - BIG numbers with lots of zeros. Toilet stop costs 200 pesos. Large french fries at Maccas in Arica was 900 pesos. Pizza for lunch at San Pedro was 8,500 pesos - think that´s about $17 US - change that to Peruvian soles and it´s about 51 soles .... expensive in Zac and Milka´s eyes when you consider we had meals in top class restaurant with fantastic service for 35 soles.
Saturday, August 22, 2009
Macdonalds in Arica Chile
We're just having papas frittas at Maccas in Chile. A long bus trip ... followed by a taxi ride ... border crossing which we could only manage with the assistance of Spanish speakers ... with some knowledge of how things work here. What an eventful day ... again.
Throughout the day I think of so many things to write about but just now they all evade me. I started off in the front seat of the bus ... on the top . Spectacular views - but all got too much for me with incredibly winding roads, passing other buses and trucks ... on double lines. I just had to swap places with Jill for a third row seat. It's such barren desolate country.
Whenn we reached the coast ... over the border in Chile, it really isn't much different.... still desolate, barren, but desert. So much sand. Will have to wait for the pictures.
The taxi ride across the border was well worth the 60 soles - our driver was in and out of the car on the Peruvian side as well as the Chilean side ... paperwork and customs checks. Another experience to add to our kitbag. Interesting that when you cross the Chilean border by car, you don't pay the $56US that you pay with entry into the Santiago airport.
Love to all....
FYI - Milka was most upset when we left Cusco that Lac and Katrina weren't coming with us, and today we left Mitch behind in Arequipa .... the group is getting smaller ... so more sadness.
Throughout the day I think of so many things to write about but just now they all evade me. I started off in the front seat of the bus ... on the top . Spectacular views - but all got too much for me with incredibly winding roads, passing other buses and trucks ... on double lines. I just had to swap places with Jill for a third row seat. It's such barren desolate country.
Whenn we reached the coast ... over the border in Chile, it really isn't much different.... still desolate, barren, but desert. So much sand. Will have to wait for the pictures.
The taxi ride across the border was well worth the 60 soles - our driver was in and out of the car on the Peruvian side as well as the Chilean side ... paperwork and customs checks. Another experience to add to our kitbag. Interesting that when you cross the Chilean border by car, you don't pay the $56US that you pay with entry into the Santiago airport.
Love to all....
FYI - Milka was most upset when we left Cusco that Lac and Katrina weren't coming with us, and today we left Mitch behind in Arequipa .... the group is getting smaller ... so more sadness.
Friday, August 21, 2009
Message to all
So much to write about ... I am behind again. We had an awesome day in the Colca Canyon - spectacular scenery, saw several condors ... just overheard, another great feast for lunch - even greater range than the previous day. Every day exceeds our expectations.
Gladys and Miguel have returned to Lima - today is Mitch's birthday, and his last day with us, so we celebrated in another amazing restaurant. Very classy place ... mains were about 35 soles. Still cheap.
Today we managed a bus trip around Arequipa and a tour of the Santa Catalina Monestry .... which I missed last time. HUGE place - lots of great photo opportunities.
Tomorrow morning ... early ... we are off on an early bus to Tacna ... somewhere near thee border ... then we're crossing the border into Chile ... and heading for San Pedro in the Atacama Desert ... well that's the plan. See how we go. We have tickets for the first bus trip ... but that doesn't mean much here.
Not sure when I will have an opportunity to update this. Also having trouble adding pics to the blog so please check the Picassa web ablum instead ... click on the slideshow or try this link http://picasaweb.google.com/lj4721/Peru2009#
Cheers Judy
Gladys and Miguel have returned to Lima - today is Mitch's birthday, and his last day with us, so we celebrated in another amazing restaurant. Very classy place ... mains were about 35 soles. Still cheap.
Today we managed a bus trip around Arequipa and a tour of the Santa Catalina Monestry .... which I missed last time. HUGE place - lots of great photo opportunities.
Tomorrow morning ... early ... we are off on an early bus to Tacna ... somewhere near thee border ... then we're crossing the border into Chile ... and heading for San Pedro in the Atacama Desert ... well that's the plan. See how we go. We have tickets for the first bus trip ... but that doesn't mean much here.
Not sure when I will have an opportunity to update this. Also having trouble adding pics to the blog so please check the Picassa web ablum instead ... click on the slideshow or try this link http://picasaweb.google.com/lj4721/Peru2009#
Cheers Judy
Off to see the birds
Day 2 was an early start to join a tour to the Colca Canyon with an overnight stay
The road out of Arequipa passes through high snow-capped peaks to extremely dry – moonscape-like landscape.
Really hard to describe these scenes. The tour leader pointed out different community areas on the outskirts of this large city of over 1 million people, with 15% percent unemployment, large populations moving to the cities in the hope of better life ... and growing slums.
Out of Arequipa, we passed the antiplano, where we stopped several times to see vicuna, alpaca... and even something like a rabbit. Higest point on the journey was 4900m .... cold, but even at this vista point, several traders were out to sell their wares.
After going up for most of the morning we then descended into the fertile Colca Valley - where, after travelling on some rough roads we arrived as a small village of 750 people, and stopped at a magnificent hotel - what a treat in what is otherwise very poor areas with most dwellings made of rock or mud brick. Not only was the place spectacular, the buffet lunch - barbequed chicken and alpaca steaks along with a huge range of other dishes, followed by passionfruit mousse and cactus fruit mousse ... was soooo delicious. Evening buffet was just as stunning - we are definitely NOT going hungry. BTW - full 3 course buffet cost 22 soles ... less than $10.
The road out of Arequipa passes through high snow-capped peaks to extremely dry – moonscape-like landscape.
Really hard to describe these scenes. The tour leader pointed out different community areas on the outskirts of this large city of over 1 million people, with 15% percent unemployment, large populations moving to the cities in the hope of better life ... and growing slums.
Out of Arequipa, we passed the antiplano, where we stopped several times to see vicuna, alpaca... and even something like a rabbit. Higest point on the journey was 4900m .... cold, but even at this vista point, several traders were out to sell their wares.
After going up for most of the morning we then descended into the fertile Colca Valley - where, after travelling on some rough roads we arrived as a small village of 750 people, and stopped at a magnificent hotel - what a treat in what is otherwise very poor areas with most dwellings made of rock or mud brick. Not only was the place spectacular, the buffet lunch - barbequed chicken and alpaca steaks along with a huge range of other dishes, followed by passionfruit mousse and cactus fruit mousse ... was soooo delicious. Evening buffet was just as stunning - we are definitely NOT going hungry. BTW - full 3 course buffet cost 22 soles ... less than $10.
Thursday, August 20, 2009
Road Trip - Day 1
First day was a long bus trip from Cusco to Arequipa so tickets were bought for the deluxe, comfy bus leaving at 9am and travelling direct, instead of the 6am bus which is cheaper and makes frequent stops.
Short taxi ride to the bus station for 9 of us... only to find that the bus had broken down and a different bus would make the trip as far as Hulaycha, where we'd be able to board the deluxe bus. Not happy Jan! After much venting by Zac (after all this was his honeymoon trip) and some money refunded we were loaded onto the alternative bus. Interesting to see how careful he is to ensure that luggage is securely loaded together and preferably away from the general cargo/luggage area which would be accessed numerous times throughout the trip ... and where there was a distinct smell of fish from a previous cargo. Not for the first time that I have been thankful for the skill and determination of our tour leader .... Senor Tour Leader as Milka likes to call him. We'd been travelling for hours, when Milka asked, “Senor Tour Leader, what time is the lunch?” Lunch would have been served on the deluxe bus ... but not on this one. It was about 3 or 4pm when we pulled in to Hulyacha to change buses ... but there was little time to get anything other than packets of biscuits from nearby traders. The bus was waiting for us ... and why not – the 9 of us outnumbered the other passengers.
Back to that trip – we passed through amazing scenery. You don't have to go farout of Cusco to find small farming communities, mud brick houses, people in traditional clothing tending small numbers of animals, small festival groups dancing and singing, Inka ruins and vistas of snow capped mountains. Schools are interesting – often quite large, and students mostly very well dressed in uniforms.
The bus stopped several times to pick up passengers ... the first stop was just outside the bus station gates, where apparently cheaper tickets can be obtained. On one occasion 2 women carrying huge bundles wrapped in the usual bright cloth boarded the bus in the middle of nowhere. They struggled up to the top deck, and just as I was wondering how they were going to get it down the aisle with their load, they heaved it up onto a platform and started selling stuff from it. We didn't understand any of the language, but one went up and down the bus taking orders while the other proceeded to pull the bundle apart enough to dig into and chop servings of roasted lamb ribs off, shove them into a plastic bag along with a couple of potatoes. Our camera wasn't quick enough to capture this chopping action, sadly. When all customers had been served, they hopped off the bus, not doubt waiting for another bus in the opposite direction to take them back again.
No – we didn't have lamb and potatoes for lunch ... just biscuits.
Hulayaca has to be seen to be believed. Apparently it's not far from Puno and the Bolivian border ... and is a mecca for imported, black market goods. Biscuits we bought were made in Bolivia .... so for 2 soles, we got 1 packet wafer cream biscuits and a bottle of soft drink. It's also a dry, dustbowl with so much construction, unfinished buildings and litter. Don't stop there unless you have to.
The new bus was spacious – only 3 seats across, good recliners and footrests ... but really bad movies. Japanese or Chinese films with Spanish subtitles...
Arrived at Arequipa late – but really looking forward to checking out the sites I missed on our last visit here – no problems with 'altitude sickness' this time.
Monday, August 17, 2009
Peruvian Wedding
It´s Monday morning here ... and I am sneaking a little time on the computer (hoping that none of the other 11 people here tonight urgently need to use the computer because I MUST write about the wedding today). Why the rush .... well this morning we are off on the honeymoon with the bride and groom... unusual - Yes, but so is everything here in Peru. Their planned honeymoon had to be postponed due to Visa issues, so this trip is al alternative ... and we´re not here for very long so, we´re joining them. In fact 9 of us will be heading off together this morning in less than one hour.
The fantastic wedding day started off with breakfast in an amazing surroundings .... Royal Inka Hotel in the Pisac Valley, surrounded by high mountains, Inca terraces and ruins, quaint mud brick houses and gum trees!!!! Breakfast was individually cooked omelettes ... with ingredients of your choice. Chef was a real showman as well.
After breakfast the procession of people in the hotel´s salon began with 2 family friends taking over the salon and for makeup and hair styling. ... I was first in line. Interesting ... with no common communication - all good.
Getting ready was a communial affair as people moved between the ´grande´rooms - sharing whatever they had, and other guests arriving, beging introduced etc. The boys looked spectacular.... I was very proud of both of them. The eyes were starting to leak already ... and in my head I could hear Milka saying to me ...´no woman no cry!´. I was trying very hard, but it didn´t work.
Party and celebration mode was already in full swing ... but Peru time was also working overtime. Things just don´t always go to plan. A bus organised to pick up many of the guests in Cusco didn´t arrive on time with some guests then arranging taxis so they would arrive in time. Some, including members of the official wedding party didn´t make it before the ceremony began ... but made it by the end - all good. They were there to sign paperwork and take part in photo sessions.
The bride and groom just beamed with happiness and emotions all round were overflowing. The service, in a very small 16th century church was in both Spanish and English ... and was very emotional. Milka did a reading in Spanish and Zac did one in English. The priest included the Australian visitors throughout the service, even commenting on the great distance we all travelled to be here etc. There was much standing and sitting sitting -no room for kneeling, and when the ceremony was over, many photos were taken IN the church - so much shuffling took place as various groups took their place beside the bride and groom ... with this amazing church background.
Many photos were taken in and around the hotle grounds, before Zac and Milka took off to have more photos taken around Pisac surrounds. Guests drifted off to the reception area to await the arrival of the bride and groom. When they arrived, they were introduced, champagne flowed and the wedding dance began - Zac and Milka danced together and then family members were introduced to dance with them.
Can´t remember the sequence of events - there was lots of champagne, wine and Zac´s beers (several different brews), good food, loud music and MUCH dancing. Somewhere in the middle of it all there was another ceremony - a civil service, cutting of the cake, boquet throwing, Zac taking off Milka´s garter, which was then trhown for the guys to catch, something else with a lot of ribbons hanging out of a large glass, and much more dancing. Pervuians certainly can dance!!! The music continued non-stop until about 9pm - not bad for a wedding that took place at 12.30pm. Some Aussie guests were even seen to be getting dance lessons throughout the night!
It was a great party - which continued the next day with a cricket game, golf, swimming, local markets(for some) and some crazy 4-wheel bike racing.
Sorry - have to go - look for more photos whenever I can. Love to all.
Sunday, August 16, 2009
Wedding day in Pisac
It´s the morning after here in Pisac.... the wedding was another AMAZING experience ... so much to write about, but unfortunately that will have to wait until we are somewhere else with better internet connection. 
It was a HUGE day with lots of special moments... starting with breakfast... , 2 wedding ceremonies - a church one in both English and Spanish as well as a civil ceremony later in the afternoon, after much merry-making. Hope to have more details for all later today or tonight.
Saturday, August 15, 2009
Pisac
Friday night ... and we are out at Pisac for the wedding ... that in itself is another adventure. Zac and Milka left early in the day to travel out to meet up with the priest. The rest of us travelled out after lunch. We were expecting a bus capable of seating 18 people .... a 15 seater arrived (for 17 of us), bags were thrown up on to the roof, 15 cases of wine were stowed on the roof or under seats, people were loaded on along with the wedding attire, numerous suit bags etc,... and 5 kegs of beer (brewed by Zac ) and the gas tank. What a load... then off along another winding mountain road and down into the spectacular valley.
Royal Inka Hotel is quite a sight. Our rooms are massive, the church is tiny, and the place has loads of interesting features. Today we cleaned the church ... ready for the wedding. Will try to get the pics up`loaded soon.
Royal Inka Hotel is quite a sight. Our rooms are massive, the church is tiny, and the place has loads of interesting features. Today we cleaned the church ... ready for the wedding. Will try to get the pics up`loaded soon.
Familia grande
The family is growing and the house expands.
We came home from our Machu Picchu trip to find the house had grown to 13 people. Friday and people came and went and the place took on the air of a hair salon. Such a busy place.
We came home from our Machu Picchu trip to find the house had grown to 13 people. Friday and people came and went and the place took on the air of a hair salon. Such a busy place.
Family members arrive from OZ
Sorry about the delay in posting ... for those who are waiting for updates and pictures. Life has been hectic, but the house has been moreso.
Lac, Katrina, Mike and Lou arrived last Monday, and Mitch arrived on Tuesday. Lac and Kat were extremely tired after almost 40 hours in transit .... shattered, but still on their feet, so we kept them going until night. Since their arrival we have visited numerous markets with everyone getting right into the spirit of bargaining, much to the disgust and disadvantage of the local traders. Everyone will have a little more to carry home.
We also had a family lunch at Senor Carbon - the meat restaurant mentioned previously. We all enjoyed that too. Didn´t give the new-comers long to settle into the high altitude conditions before tripping off to Machu Picchu. Our package included pickup in the city at 5.30 - so for those of us staying with Zac, it was a 4.30am wakeup and a taxi pickup into the city. Unfortunately Katrina was really ill - but keen to go, so we headed off with a bucket and several liners.... As Zac had predicted she came good as we descended from altitude into the lower heights of Machu Picchu .... and was able to enjoy the sites of this magnificent place.
In the city we were met by a guide, taken to a waiting bus for the 2 hour ride through snow capped mountains to Ollantaytambo, then onto the Vista Dome train .... train with glass panels in the roof to enable great views of the mountainous scenery. Spectacular ... and so much better than the Backpackers Train that we went on last time. Liek planes, we were served meals ... and on the home journey the staff provided entertainment - local dancing as well as a fashion parade of alpaca garments.
In Agues Callientes we were met by another guide, taken to our hotels and then back to the bus station for the zigzag ride up to Machu Picchu - with a 3 hour tour from another local guide followed by time to wander arounder by ourselves. This place is so impressive ... amazing amazing - even if you´ve seen it before. It´s simply breath-taking .. pictures /video don´t do it justice. Even the surrounding High mountains are spectacular. I love Agues Callientes ... village with a railway as the main street and pathways up the side of the mountain. The village has grown since we were here ... and there is so much construction taking place ... all rambling with no apparent plan.
We stayed the night and had time the following day to wander around, see a demonstration of musical instruments an, and scout around the markets before the trip home.
Lac, Katrina, Mike and Lou arrived last Monday, and Mitch arrived on Tuesday. Lac and Kat were extremely tired after almost 40 hours in transit .... shattered, but still on their feet, so we kept them going until night. Since their arrival we have visited numerous markets with everyone getting right into the spirit of bargaining, much to the disgust and disadvantage of the local traders. Everyone will have a little more to carry home.
We also had a family lunch at Senor Carbon - the meat restaurant mentioned previously. We all enjoyed that too. Didn´t give the new-comers long to settle into the high altitude conditions before tripping off to Machu Picchu. Our package included pickup in the city at 5.30 - so for those of us staying with Zac, it was a 4.30am wakeup and a taxi pickup into the city. Unfortunately Katrina was really ill - but keen to go, so we headed off with a bucket and several liners.... As Zac had predicted she came good as we descended from altitude into the lower heights of Machu Picchu .... and was able to enjoy the sites of this magnificent place.
In the city we were met by a guide, taken to a waiting bus for the 2 hour ride through snow capped mountains to Ollantaytambo, then onto the Vista Dome train .... train with glass panels in the roof to enable great views of the mountainous scenery. Spectacular ... and so much better than the Backpackers Train that we went on last time. Liek planes, we were served meals ... and on the home journey the staff provided entertainment - local dancing as well as a fashion parade of alpaca garments.
In Agues Callientes we were met by another guide, taken to our hotels and then back to the bus station for the zigzag ride up to Machu Picchu - with a 3 hour tour from another local guide followed by time to wander arounder by ourselves. This place is so impressive ... amazing amazing - even if you´ve seen it before. It´s simply breath-taking .. pictures /video don´t do it justice. Even the surrounding High mountains are spectacular. I love Agues Callientes ... village with a railway as the main street and pathways up the side of the mountain. The village has grown since we were here ... and there is so much construction taking place ... all rambling with no apparent plan.
We stayed the night and had time the following day to wander around, see a demonstration of musical instruments an, and scout around the markets before the trip home.
Monday, August 10, 2009
Sunday lunch with the family
Another surreal experience... It´s almost 4.30 pm, and lunch is almost ready... but so much has gone on before. Milka´s family are all here for Sunday lunch - Milka´s mum and dad, who have come from Lima with a grandaughter, Ximena, Milka´s sister, Mercy and brother in law, Rod (who is Australian) and 3 kids, and one of the bridesmaids from Lima, Isabella plus us Australians. We´ve already had delicious scallops in the shells, brought from Lima by Miguel, Milka´s dad, and cooked under the griller with cheese, garlic butter and lime.
Next we´re having a lamb roast, bought from the local market this morning, with gravy Australian style, courtesy of the Gravox brought from Oz. It´s been a riot - a mix of English and Spanish with bilinguals working hard! They have been so welcoming to us foreigners, it´s been wonderful! Plenty of drinks - Zac´s homebrew and a couple of nice wines, and we haven´t started lunch yet.
Many ´salud´s happening - a great day, on top of of the buck´s party - a bit of the hair of the dog! The boys woke up a bit slowly, but are in fine form now. Prior to the visitors arriving, we were banished to the bedrooms so that Milka and her mum could do the cleaning, which happens quite regularly. Everyone does exactly what Milka says - no doubt who wears the pants in this family! This is Jill blogging because Judy has a bit of a glow up and has difficulty with the typing - I put it down to emotional overload!
The house is filling up
By this stage we are congratulating ourselves on our progress with Spanish... now for another experience – sharing a meal with Milka's mum, dad and niece, none of whom speak very much English, and no translators. Milka understands quite a bit of English, but sometimes has difficulty finding the English words to express what she wants to say. On these occasions she usually refers to Zac, or calls him on the phone if he's not around, and passes the phone to us for him to explain what she is trying to say. Tonight, Jill and I are on our own with Gladys, Miguel and Ximena ..... and a dictionary!!!!
We got the message that Milka's family think very highly of Zac ... opressio – esteem.
The house is filling up – lucky we're no longer in the small flat! There's 10 of us here tonight.
Lex said he met a young lady tonight, danced with her, and when it was time for home she got into the taxi with them - he wondered where they were dropping her off.... to discover she's staying here with us. Jeff tells a different story ... about a girl he met last night and brought home in a taxi...
Meet Isabelle, one of Milka's bridesmaids. Zac, Milka and Isabelle are on the floor tonight .... and although we feel somewhat uncomfortable, they wouldn't have it any other way. The more the merrier!!
The house is filling up – lucky we're no longer in the small flat! There's 10 of us here tonight.
Lex said he met a young lady tonight, danced with her, and when it was time for home she got into the taxi with them - he wondered where they were dropping her off.... to discover she's staying here with us. Jeff tells a different story ... about a girl he met last night and brought home in a taxi...
Meet Isabelle, one of Milka's bridesmaids. Zac, Milka and Isabelle are on the floor tonight .... and although we feel somewhat uncomfortable, they wouldn't have it any other way. The more the merrier!!
A different shopping experience
(No photos for this ....)
We set off with Milka ... warned that we would be going into an area where it wasn't safe to carry bags, cameras, etc and where pick-pockets might frequent. Get the picture .... 4 of us carrying nothing, minus our jewellery, money stashed in internal pockets or hiding places.
We'd previously driven through this commercial area (nothing like the commercial areas we are used to) but today, Saturday it was alive. The railway line which runs through the centre of the street was filled with people selling livestock... puppies, kittens, ducks, chooks.... A side-street was a sea of tarps all the way up the hill – a double row of stalls up the middle of the street and footpaths lined with more stalls ... all crowded with bargain hunters. All the spaces in buildings lining this street were also full of stalls – alley ways, courtyards, unfinished buildings ... every available space. One space we went into was such a building ... up 3 flights of concrete steps – open floors of an unfinished building where dozens of stall holders had laid out their wares on tarps or blankets.
Some of the stock was new, but much of it was second hand ... clothing, curtains, sheets, apparently from North America, Other sections were tools, old computer parts (motherboards .... crapppp!!!) even second hand traditional clothing – woven shawls with big holes in them.
We traipsed along .... Milka leading the way, Jill and I trying to keep up .. and Gladys bringing up the rear ... often falling behind because she stopped to check out a bargain. After a while it became apparent we were on a mission to get items for Milka's 'costume' for her hen's night - a Pimps and Prostitutes party. The shopping expedition for boots for Jill and I was to come later. Milka, tried on coats, leather jackets, searched for bags etc before setting off for another area where other items were added to the costume collection and boots were purchased ... for 50 soles!
Whist we were shopping with Milka, Jeff and Lex were assigned the task of looking after Zac during his bucks' event – can't call it a party as it was an all day event, starting with breakfast during the Rugby Tri-Nations match, followed by go-kart racing, then paintball, then off to Senor Carbon's for lunch (all you can eat meat), then a 'show' involving flesh, and finally to meet up with the girls event for a night of dancing, drinking and merrymaking.
Pleased to note that all made it home safely, although somewhat bruised and sore, but generally in better condition than a previous night out.
We set off with Milka ... warned that we would be going into an area where it wasn't safe to carry bags, cameras, etc and where pick-pockets might frequent. Get the picture .... 4 of us carrying nothing, minus our jewellery, money stashed in internal pockets or hiding places.
We'd previously driven through this commercial area (nothing like the commercial areas we are used to) but today, Saturday it was alive. The railway line which runs through the centre of the street was filled with people selling livestock... puppies, kittens, ducks, chooks.... A side-street was a sea of tarps all the way up the hill – a double row of stalls up the middle of the street and footpaths lined with more stalls ... all crowded with bargain hunters. All the spaces in buildings lining this street were also full of stalls – alley ways, courtyards, unfinished buildings ... every available space. One space we went into was such a building ... up 3 flights of concrete steps – open floors of an unfinished building where dozens of stall holders had laid out their wares on tarps or blankets.
Some of the stock was new, but much of it was second hand ... clothing, curtains, sheets, apparently from North America, Other sections were tools, old computer parts (motherboards .... crapppp!!!) even second hand traditional clothing – woven shawls with big holes in them.
We traipsed along .... Milka leading the way, Jill and I trying to keep up .. and Gladys bringing up the rear ... often falling behind because she stopped to check out a bargain. After a while it became apparent we were on a mission to get items for Milka's 'costume' for her hen's night - a Pimps and Prostitutes party. The shopping expedition for boots for Jill and I was to come later. Milka, tried on coats, leather jackets, searched for bags etc before setting off for another area where other items were added to the costume collection and boots were purchased ... for 50 soles!
Whist we were shopping with Milka, Jeff and Lex were assigned the task of looking after Zac during his bucks' event – can't call it a party as it was an all day event, starting with breakfast during the Rugby Tri-Nations match, followed by go-kart racing, then paintball, then off to Senor Carbon's for lunch (all you can eat meat), then a 'show' involving flesh, and finally to meet up with the girls event for a night of dancing, drinking and merrymaking.
Pleased to note that all made it home safely, although somewhat bruised and sore, but generally in better condition than a previous night out.
Shopping with Gladys
Gladys is a super shopper (aka bargainer). On our big day out, Gladys bought a jumper at one of the road-side stalls. Not only did she get the price down, she also managed to get a 'regale' (gift) at the end of the transaction ... because it was her birthday the next day. Really wish I could understand the transaction which took place – but watching the faces and listening to the inflections of the voices was an experience in itself.
Another occasion we went to get some jewellery to go with Milka's wedding dress. Here again, she got the price down and walked out with a small ring (not sure if it was silver like the rest of the stuff in the store or not .. but quite possibly) ... which could either go on the wedding cake or be a present for Gladisita's birthday.
Even our boots purchase was negotiated downwards by Gladys...
Another occasion we went to get some jewellery to go with Milka's wedding dress. Here again, she got the price down and walked out with a small ring (not sure if it was silver like the rest of the stuff in the store or not .. but quite possibly) ... which could either go on the wedding cake or be a present for Gladisita's birthday.
Even our boots purchase was negotiated downwards by Gladys...
Morning with Milka
Plan was for haircuts and shopping for boots. But every event here turns out to be so much more. I've seen hair dressers in the local market stalls – just a chair with a mirror, some hair dressing shop fronts that I haven't ventured into, but today we found something else. Like many of the places we've been taken to this one was through an alley, up some stairs, ring a buzzer to be let in .... and a busy salon opens up. While Jill and I both got hair cuts ( for 25 soles) Gladys got a colour and cut and Milka got a French manicure!!!
We've certainly been treated to some amazing eating experiences – all terrific!
Big day out...
Zac managed to arrange hire of a car and driver for us (for $60 US) so that we could visit some of the outlying tourist sites. Bargain, I reckon. We left home at 9am and didn't get back until 6.30pm and he had the cost of a flat tyre as well.
The scenery is spectacular – high snow capped mountains, terraced hillsides, deep valleys, local villages as well as Inca ruins and salt terraces. We tried to capture the scenery – with video as well as stills, but it is so immense - you just have to see it for yourself.
The Morays HUGE... terraced areas ... miles from anywhere ... where the Incas experimented with different climatic conditions for agriculture. Apparently there are several degrees of temperature between the various levels. Amazing, amazing
Moras – Salt Terraces – we drove more miles on rocky dirt roads, often quite narrow, up steep sections where the driver constantly tooted his horn to alert on-coming traffic, which could be taxis, cars or big tourist buses!!!
We approached this site from a high point, and the sight is breath-taking – the whole side of the valley is sectioned into terraces. We stopped to take in the scene ... and stopped again shortly after to change a tyre before driving down to the entrance to the terraces. From this point we were able to walk along the narrow top of the salt terraces, see how the water comes out of the mountain and is channeled into the various areas, and then down a road/track which is where mountain bike groups also venture to meet our car at the bottom. Interestingly this is also where Zac came off a mountain bike some weeks ago.
Next stop, Ollyatatambo. This is a really interesting village with much original Incan construction as well as Inca construction and terracing on the steep mountain sides (read this as MANY steps up). We've been here before, and since it was quite late by this time, Jill and Jeff took a quick look at the ruins while the rest of us opted for a late lunch. Two hour drive home with spectacular scenery topped off a brilliant day out.
Saturday, August 08, 2009
More than we expected ... everytime we go out
Some days ago we took off to catch a local bus to Tambomachay ... with a plan to check out those ruins and then walk back towards Cusco, visiting 3 more Inca sites along the way.
Incredibly, we caught a taxi (that´s not the incredible part) and managed to communicate to the driver that we wanted to get to the bus station in some street (can´t remember the name). He obviously didn´t really understand our destination ... but said something from which Lex recognised ´Pisac´so said´Si´. We had previously caught a taxi from the bus station with Zac and Milka ... to Pisac, but both Lex and I wondered if we were going to end up at the bus station, or be taken all the way to Pisac by this driver - a problem if one hasn´t previously negotiated a price. However we were taken to the bus station .. - a yard with a couple of buses in it. As we were wondering how we go about getting a ticket (hadn´t seen anything resembling a ticket office), a guy popped out of the gate sprouting several names ... including Tambomachay, which we recognised. WOW what luck, but our luck continued, we got on the bus, picked out a couple of seats (that weren´t broken) and settled in .. to later discover that our tickets had seat numbers on them ... and we were in the right seats. Double WOW as the bus was beyond FULL. With this luck we were in for a great day ... for a princely sum of less than 10 sol.
To be continued.....
Quick catchup .... full day in a nutshell ...
We had 4 sites to visit for the day ... starting at Tambomachay ... and visiting the others as we walked back to Cusco. Our intention was to self guide our way through these... even that changed early in the day ... and it was well worth it.
Tambomachay was a small site which we wandered around by ourselves - Jeff ventured up the hills to check out the farming areas.
Across the road, past some ladies sitting spinning and weaving (in the middle of nowhere) to the next site Pukapukara ... where we met a Peruvian man who offered to show us around this site ... for a price - donation I think he said. He told us he was a trained/qualified guide and this was his day off. We accepted his offer and certainly had an informed (we hope) description of the site, after which he said visitors usually pay 10 soles each for the guided tour but we could pay what we thought it was worth... It was only a small site so we gave him 5 each.
After further discussion we enlisted him to continue the day with us ... also for a price. Instead of walking to the next site (1 hour walk) he suggested we take a local bus for 60 centimos. Another interesting adventure... local buses fill up rather quickly... should say over-fill.
The day continued with lots of unexpected adventures - we certainly saw the sites we had planned but saw aspects that we hadn´t known about - especially at Sachsayhuaman - where Lex and I had been before. Previously we´d seen the huge construction area, but on the other side there are tunnels where mummies had been found as well as the huge rock slides .... and much more.
We were also taken to a textile and silver shop and factory - got a tour of that ... also the place where Jill bought a jacket and Lex bought me a silver bracelet. Not far from the factory we stopped for a strawberry maize beer ... different - but also a place we wouldn´t have ventured into.
Our guide turned out to be enjoyable and informative company - but he was also dead keen to show us a restaurant ... not a tourist place, but a place where loacls eat...´very cheap´.... well NOT but Peruvian standards - but it was a special place , way up on the hill and overlooking Cusco, and the food was good. We had expected things that happened - like when we went to the shops, he would probably get a cut, and possibly even the restaurant ... where he disappeared when the bill arrived - but it was still a great day out.
Thursday, August 06, 2009
Meeting the family...
Getting behind
3 days since I last blogged and now it´s out of control. Will upload as many pics as I can .... and add some highlights.
We often seem to start off with only a brief plan... maybe even start somewhere, but we always end up with more than expected. Last Monday we met Zac for lunch ... another place we wouldn
´t ever have found, but another delight. After that we wandered around the city... and stumbled across a courtyard full of HUGE papier mache models. Apparently this was an art school. We
may even have seen some of these being paraded around the streets... not sure how they get them through the arch and out of the courtyard.
Then we wandered down to San Pedro Market ... a local market area - been here before with Zac and Milka, and Lex wanted to treat Jeff to a local ´special fruit juice´... made with everything on the stand, including milk, fruit, carrots, honey, black beer.......
Jill and I explored a bit while they sat there and ´talked´to their juice lady. We even managed to purchase some bananas and some palta -avocados. Some parts of the market were not so enticing ... the offal section.
Monday, August 03, 2009
Another adventure....
From our vantage spot in La Plaza (well from the balcony of Norton´s bar), we noticed a number of tents and a huge crowd up on the hill above the plaza near San Christobel church. Just had to investigate..... I managed to talk Zac into taking Jill and I up the hill in a taxi to see what happening while Lex and Jeff remained in Nortons.What an adventure.
We got up the hill to find a massive crowd of people gathered around a statue- looked like an Inca ruler, with other banners, statues and crowds up ahead. Close by the statue were numerous men clad in traditional costumes ... many of them drinking from 1.25L bottles of cervesa, carried in crates on ther backs by young women.
After we pushed our way past the group, we realised that the procession was getting ready to move on after their rest break. Forty or so men heaved the massive statue up into the air, and a similar group of boys heaved the wooden stand out from underneath it. What a sight ..... and quite a worrying one actually, because each group strained under the weight, staggered around the narrow road.... moved metres backwards, and sideways before being pushed back into the centre of the road by other groups.... and eventually moving forwards up the steep incline.
The crowd pushed forward to keep out of danger .... but we thought we might be better off to keep to the edge until it passed.... Then we took the stairs up to the next level.... trying to avoid the stream of liquid flowing down the steps (not water).
Up on the next level, the crowd was even greater - we could only manage to get a short way into the gathering. All the tents were food or drink tents and crowds of people were sitting around eating and drinking - often passing around and sharing the one bottle of beer and the one plastic cup. Trays of food included roast chickens and cuy (guinea pig).
We waited around until the statues, bands, and procession continued into the church before attempting to fight our way back through the crowd, down the hill again, leaving the locals to their merry-making. It was a privilege to be there to see just a small part of the event.
Each day is filled with new experiences - today was extra special.
Cerviche for lunchToday Zac took us to a Cerviche Restaurant for lunch - raw fish marinated in lemon or lime juice. It was actually much better than I expected. The restaurant was quite unique - a wall of swords made from the swords of sword fish ....quite stunning.
It was quite a large restaurant, in a suburban area (not the tourist areas) ... and very busy. Customers waiting for our table.
It is good to have Zac with us to interpret the menu and order for us - much more adventurous that way.
We had this HUGE platter of cerviche, seafood rice and some crispy fried seafood ..... we made a dent in it but it was too much for 5 of us!
Markets ... and more markets
There are so many market stalls here in Cusco - all selling much the same thing. But with some family members arriving here for the first time we just had to visit a few. needles to say, someone walked out with a new alpaca jumper.We tried on hats, bargained for purses and bags and bought a selection of finger puppets. All part of the Cusco experience and great fun.
Jill also managed to buy a piece of tapestry - from a young lady who spoke quite good English and told us that the fleece came from her grandfather´s alpacas.
Saturday, August 01, 2009
Met a man with a dog today.
Took a walk up Gringo Alley - found a great shop with Alpaca knitwear -all hand done. More expensive than the ´Maybe Alpaca´ jumpers sold in most of the markets, but cheaper than the ones sold in the top class shops.
More up, up, up as we had a bit of time to fill in before meeting Zac and Milka for lunch in Paddy´s Bar.
Still feel the effects of altitude, so I stopped for a break near the top of the stairs, and looked up to see a man standing on a small concrete platform on the side of a hill ... behind a high wall. He was telling me to take it easy and rest ... in English.
He invited us into his work place to take in the view, so we headed up the last few steps, along the road beside an adobe wall to a door which popped open. In we went - joining him on this small
concrete platform along with his 2 dogs and lots of bits and pieces.
He explained that he farmed this hillside - the only agricultural land in the city of Cusco. It appeared that he also recycled whatever he could. He pointed out several points of interest visible from this spectacular vantage point, and was happy to answer any questions we had for him - although he was somewhat deaf, so Lex had to write the questions down for him. He could even read the questions written in English.
Catholic churches dominate the skyline and he gave us a bit of the history - how churches were built using the stone from the Inca constructions ... not good! No skyscrapers evident in this skyline - how precious is that!
We left him... not sure if we should be offering him some money (which so often the case when people offer to let you take pictures of them, their work or surroundings), or if that would be an insult.
Visited a great museum before lunch with Zac and Milka... and just because we are on holidays and we can, we stayed on a bit (extended lunch).... before stopping in at a few markets on our way home.
Topped off another special day in Cusco. Gotta love this place.
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