Leaving on a jet plane....

We're on our way home, and as you can imagine, leaving what has become our second home and our extended family was quite difficult. It was an early start ... flight changes and all, leaving us very short of time for the Lima change-over.

We arrived, to be greeted by Milka's Lima family, Gladys, Miguel and Sara ... who arrived with a present for Lex. How awesome - it's probably a one hour taxi ride from their place to the airport - and we were so short of time we only had time to say 'hi', 'thanks' and 'goodbye until we return' - but it was good to see them again... really must learn more Spanish for our next trip. The present was a new hat - so I now have his other hat to wear home. Check this out....

we have about 5 hours here ... so might be looking for a power point - on our trip over we only had wifi for a short time. May be different this time.

Last night's darts night was a good farewell to Cusco for us - sharing the time not only with Zac and Milka but also several of their friends. They all make us feel so welcome, and the kilt wearing Scotsman, gave us a short farewell speech on behalf of all ... commenting that of all the expats in the group, Zac was the only one whose parents had visited for such an extended period ... 11 weeks - and he thought that was awesome! They also mentioned that Zac and Milka had fielded several comments at various times about having parents/in-laws living with them for almost 3 months, and both said, 'No problem!' It really wasn't a problem either!

We have lots of adjusting to do when we get home ....

• work for me ... I know that's going to be a challenge.
• not going out so much ... sitting in a bar for a few hours enjoying spectacular scenes, or eating out
  
• less rice ... maybe
• might have to remove the waste paper bin from the toilet for a while
• and the cost of everything in Oz ... our 2 course dinner with wine and live opera for 4 people cost less then $100, and of course you can eat well for much less than that.
• shopping ... not so many opportunities in Clermont
• and may be lots more

No doubt we will be back again sometime ... although, much to Milka's disappointment, we can't name a time.

Signing off from South America 25 September 2009.

Last days in Cusco .... and here's still more to see.

What an amazing place ... a place of contrasts .... always throws up something different.

Yesterday, being our second last day in Cusco, we headed in to town for the afternoon - I browsed some of the markets again whilst Lex made himself comfortable at Paddy's. Not a bad way to spend an afternoon. I even bought a couple of hand-painted cards from a young man - these are alwys interesting exchanges ... but ones we mostly try to avoid. The conversation goes like this (and if you've been here yourself, you'll relate to this)...

You look at my paintings lady. It's my work. One sol..... (it's never one sol)... No thanks.
Maybe later. Maybe next week. Maybe next life. ( I love their sense of humour.) No Thanks. Walk into another shop ... only to find him still waiting for me when I come out.
Where you come from lady? Australia, I say, not wanting to be rude ... but BAD move 'cos it always opens more dialogue.
Kevin Rudd the Prime Minister. Who you like best, Kevin Rudd or John Howard?
I asked where it learnt about them ... and he says at school.
I don't like either ... Politics. Country needs politics, but it's full of corruption. You like Cusco? How many times you been here?
Twice
Bit more conversation... and I say Ciao ... and go into the next market, but he is still waiting when I come out 30 mins later..... So I look at his work. We negotiate a price, and I now have 2 hand painted cards.

I met up with Lex later in Paddy's ... and find he's got into some conversation with a couple of Irishmen and a Scot, who were wanting to find out where you get the drink made from a frog in a blender!!!!! (brings to mind a cartoon I saw years ago) Haven't heard of this drink ... but the waitress says she's had the soup, not the drink, but she thinks you can get it at San Pedro market .... where Zac introduced Lex who introduced Jeff to a special drink ... fruit, milk, beer ... etc. Don't think we have time for another trip to San Pedro market before we leave ... ;-)

After Paddy's we met Zac and Milka for church - not their local church, but one near the Plaza since we were going out for tea after. Just happened to be the Saint's day at La Merced church, so it was packed, with different blessings being made etc. Voices in these churches are very beautiful!

And a new experience for tea ... dinner and entertainment at Divina Comedia - a couple of streets up the hill from the plaza. Dinner and live opera performances .... in Cusco!!!!

From Peru 2 - 2009

What a unique experience - the food was superb, and the entertainment was amazing ... and so effortless!!! Dessert was also unique ... a shared plate with small serves of 5 different desserts. What a great idea when you can't decide on one!!! or just want to try them all!!!

From Peru 2 - 2009

The restaurant is in one of those magnificent, well maintained colonial buildings ... very old stone-work, courtyard in the middle. Even the toilet was an experience. Lights came on automatically as you walked along the corridor. The hand basin had a stone puma head for the water .. but there was no obvious tap ... small pressure plate on the floor, turns on the water and it comes out of the puma's mouth!! Glad I wasn't the first to go ...

Tonight we are in for a different experience. Last night in Cusco and Zac's friends have brought their weekly darts night forward to Thurs for us... so we are off to Cross Keys ... a very nice, English style pub.

But wait .... there's more!

Spectacular Spring Sunday continues .....

Lex and I walked down from Sacsayhuaman to Cusco .... (rather walk down than up as some people were!!!!) and thinking ... breakfast at Jack's would top off a fabulous morning ... but the sights and sounds of Plaza de Armas were calling ... yet again.

A band was playing ... and could be heard from the church at San Christobel (where Jill and I had explored a parade with Zac some weeks earlier). A crowd was gathering ... I just had to check it out - give breakfast a miss.

From Peru 2 - 2009

There was the usual military presence assembled in front of the Cathedral ...

From Peru 2 - 2009

but thousands more people were gathered on the street in front of the Jesuit Church ... along the whole length of the street. Many of the group on the Norton's end were very young children ...and parents - but the kids were nearly all in costumes.

From Peru 2 - 2009

When the parade began ... after the military marching and bands - the groups of kids followed. It appeared to be kindergarten groups ... and all groups had a theme for their costumes ... but the kids were sooo young - from about 2yr old. Parents and or teachers carried some very young ones ... but most marched along.

From Peru 2 - 2009

One group, slightly oder, about 4 or 5 were in school uniform ... what a sight to see them 'goose-stepping' their way along the street.

Groups of adults (possibly teachers) followed - but there were still thousands of people waiting for their turn around the plaza. From what we were able to read from the banners, it looked like a parade celebrating education in Cusco.... but Milka explained later, that it was a Spring Festival Parade ...which probably explains some of the costumes on the littlies - flowers, bees, cows....maybe! But it was spectacular. People here seem to LOVE parades ... and costumes.

We didn't wait to see it all ... tired and hungry - although I did manage a bit more shopping before heading home for the rest of our previous night's sleep!!

First day of Spring in Cusco ... apparently

Sunday ... what a spectacular day!!!

We'd heard about a festival at Sacsayhuaman ... not sure that we got to that one, buut this was definitely one of those 'special' moments. Milka came home one night from Tourism class talking about an event in the Valley of the Moon ... somewhere near Qenko. Details were sketchy ... except 5.30am. Another trip to this area of the valley ... in the early morning was certainly appealing to Lex and I ... so all agreed - not only would we be there, but we would buy an Andian tree the day before for a special tree planting ceremony at Sacsayhuaman. No one figured on the late night of social darts at Mark and Cecilia's the night before.... ;-(

But we were up early ... caught a taxi (a driver with some supposed knowledge of the place) ... and were eventually deposited somewhere in the hills. Not many people in sight ... but the arrival of a few others walking along, carrying small trees gave us hope that we were in the right place.

Lex and I felt very privileged to be included with a small group of locals in this ceremony. Most of the ceremony was in Quechan, with an occasional explanation in Spanish ... so we had little hope of understanding anything. We go the idea it was a tribute to Pachamama (Mother Earth). There was also a purification (cleansing) ceremony - involving smoke -

From Peru 2 - 2009

ridding the body of all bad thoughts and making a wish for the future. (maybe that's off the mark - but it was an incredible feeling to not only be there ... but to be welcomed there and included by those conducting the event). The surroundings added to the magic of the moment.

We followed along with the group to Sacsayhuaman with drums beating

From Peru 2 - 2009

(past an accident scene involving a bus and a car - first accident we've seen here, amazingly, considering the road and the vehicles ... and the drivers). Some sections we had walked previously with Jeff, Jill and our friend ... but at times we went down back lanes, and into the back entry to Sacsayhuaman, where the tree planting ceremony took place. Much ritual with all of this - in Quechan again. We all were asked to select 3 + 2 coca leaves - similar significance to the smoke... put your wishes into the coca leaves - which were placed carefully into the bottom of a hole. Then all the items which were part of the ceremony were placed into the hole (including the ceramic containers) .... flower petals, seeds, water, and lots more we didn't understand .... as well as chocolate, red wine, apple!!!

From Peru 2 - 2009

Everyone was invited to cover these items with some soil, and then our trees were blessed with some special water.

And then we planted our trees.

Lex was in his element ... sitting in a hole, covered in dirt with Sacsayhuaman in the background - what a treat!! By this stage, Zac and Milka had ducked away, leaving Lex and I with a group of Quechan and Spanish speaking locals.... and we were very comfortable with it too.

From Peru 2 - 2009

Last days in Cusco

.... so we had to do more .... shopping, walking, eating out, relaxing at the locals.... and whatever else Cusco delivers, which BTW is always something.

From Peru 2 - 2009

Walking the streets we came across this enterprising young girl - about 8yrs old ... out on her own. She talked us into taking photos - something we usually ignore. Her name was Flor.

First night back ... really felt like I had arrived home. Just love this city and we spent a wonderful evening at Norton's with the owner/manager, Milka's friend. Beans are definitely NOT the best thing to eat on first night return to altitude .... well that's what I'm blaming ... not the red wine we had!

One day Lex and I walked around several streets - which are always fascinating, and ended up at Norton's ... and from the balcony we watched as the traffic flow decreased (police motor-cyclist parked in the middle of the road will do it). A group entered the plaza carrying beautiful lanterns ... planes, boats, flowers etc... As they paraded round the plaza and past our balcony, we realised it was a Bi-lingual School ... and discovered later, when we dined at Cross Keys (another of Zac's local spots) that the group was celebrating their 9th anniversary ... some of Zac's friends had been in the parade and were also dining at Cross Keys.

That same evening, we were attracted by more music ... to find a band near La Merced church ... thumping out popular music. Also spent some time at a Book Sale in the square ... bought a recipe book ... in Spanish and English - not all ingredients will be available in OZ!

From Peru 2 - 2009

Cusco is never dull!

More about school

Forgot to mention student writing. Our kids generally learn print script first, then exits and entries leading to cursive script. Often our students continue, or revert to print script as their preferred option.

Here the students learn cursive script from the start!!! Interesting.

Off to school ... Peru style

Went to school one morning whilst in Lima with Milka's niece and her mum. Very interesting. Schools generally are surrounded by high (approx 10 ft with wire above that), solid concrete walls. The gate is only open at certain times.

When we arrived ... around 7.45am .. the gate was open, many parents were standing around outside, and children were filing through the gate, with their control book (bit like a student diary), open to be stamped on entry. We weren't permitted in ... but Sara caught the eye of the director across the concrete sports area. He beckoned us in and greeted Sara with the usual SA greeting .... kiss on the cheek. I was introduced .... and greeted in a similar fashion. First time I've been been greeted by a school principal in such a fashion!!! Sara explained that I am a teacher visiting from Oz and would like to see how a class operates here ... could we visit the room. Well, not right then, but come back at 12 noon.

So we did, but we had to have the 'control' book with us or we wouldn't have been allowed in. We arrived at the room hile a science lesson was in progress ... I think. Took me a while to work out what was going on. Then it all changed. Another teacher arrived to take an English lesson. They were doing numbers from 11 to 20. At least I could communicate with the English teacher.

The room was ground floor ... bare concrete floor. Walls has some posters about science and maths topics. There was a large cupboard which appeared to contain class resources .... including roll of toilet paper which was collected by students when they left the room to go to the toilet. Desks were small, 2 person wooden tables painted brown, arranged in rows and chairs were small brown wooden ones. They had a new flat screen TV above the large blackboard, but it was covered, and apparently was new and hadn't been used. The teacher's desk, at the front of the room, was small... similar to student desks.

At 1pm, small plastic bags of milk and a bread roll were distributed to all students. ALL books were packed into school ports ... which were sitting under desks. Groups of older students were gathering outside the room ... I thought they were most likely siblings waiting to collect their younger brothers or sisters / this was a second grade class - students were around 7 yrs old. But NO.... this was the next class arriving for their school day. At 1pm, the first groups who have been there since 8am .... with only a 15 min break .... go home and the older students arrive for their school day .... probably until 6pm.

As we left the school, vendors with mobile carts were there to sell drinks, food, lollies etc to the kids, but there was also a guy with a wooden fram, and several small plastic bags containing goldfish for sale. Kids walked home or were picked up in motor taxis.

Later in the afternoon, the homework began, and I started to get a greater appreciation of how the school worked. The day is planned around 45 min periods - and students ONLY take to school the books required for that day. Sounds like what happens in high schools back home .... but these are second grade!!!! Five hours at school, with only one 15 min break!!!

From Peru 2 - 2009

Each subject has homework ... and in addition there is a weekly project ... which requires a great deal of parent input!!! The maths I saw included multiplication, division and fraction. The project for this week was about water filtration ... a model and experiment had to be created and demonstrated. On Friday, when the project was due... we were a bit late...around 8.15. The gates were shut, and apparently the director was addressing the students. Many students were also late, and lined up outside. When the talking finished, the gates opened, students filed in, but we weren't allowed in (we were acrrying all the bits for the science project). Eventually we were allowed through the solid steel gate, but had to wait by the gate. After a short time we were allowed to speak with the director in the middle of the concrete area. Usual greeting all around along with much loud talking ... by him, and a few parents also carring objects for their children. BUT ... there was no way he was allowing any of the group to go to classrooms .... our items were taken by the groundsman, or cleaner ... and delivered.

One other day, the students were to go home at 11am ... apparently there was a teachers' meeting after that.

ALL very interesting.

Party time in Lima .... and do they know how to party!!!

Last night we went to a double party ... seventh birthday for Milka's niece and fifth wedding anniversary for her cousin (the birthday girl's parents). What a night!!! The birthday party was first ... starting at 7pm.... massive decorations, about 50 kids.... and their parents ....loud music ... all the usual party food etc ... then the clowns arrived – the entertainment wasn't a sit down affair. They revved the kids up ... with much dancing and jumping around, ... accompanied by whistles, blown in time with the thumping music (every one of the kids had one), as well as rattles, balloons, glow sticks, pinata full of toys, birthday cake etc... At 9pm, when the kids left, the place was cleared ready for the adult's party. A live band arrived, ready to start playing sometime after 11pm. Groups of people arrived, food was served, and a Peruvian custom for drinks began ..... a small jug containing a mixture of wine and pisco along with a very small glass began to bee passed around. A person pours a small amount into the glass, then passes the jug on to another person – usually someone they wish to 'have cheers with'. That person holds on to the jug until the glass has been emptied and passed to them. And so it goes..... A similar process worked with a small flask of straight pisco, and a small jug of cubra libre (usually rum, coke and lime .... although I think this was just rum and lime juice).

About the same time as the band started (LOUD music.... PA system, HUGE speakers, and really LOUD Peruvian MC), a couple of plastic crates of beer (tallies) were carried in and distributed around the groups ..... one bottle and one glass per group. Same process worked for the beer too .... and interestingly, the person holding the bottle .... waiting for the glass, waited patiently, never drinking from the bottle.

Once the band stared, and music began thumping out ... dancing began.... Latin American style. Boy ... these people can dance!!! The music and dancing continued until 3.30am.... the band packed up and left. At that point, the stereo started .... even LOUDER!!! Streets are narrow and neighbours are very close .... no-one would have got any sleep, but no-one complained. Definitely NOT like Australia. There was no group of males around the keg outside either!!! Everybody was dancing.... Throughout the night, as 2 crates of empties were filled, someone would take them out the door .... and reappear shortly after with 2 full crates ..... even at 5am!!!!! I asked about this sometime later ... and the beer was purchased from a local shop.... whenever needed. Some service!

We left for home around 5.30am.... the crowd had dwindled, but the music was still thumping out and people were still dancing!!!!

No wonder Milka says she doesn't want to come to Australia because we don't dance much. Maybe she is right!!!

BTW ... the family next door looks like having a party tonight. There's an arch of pink balloons around the doorway. Maybe we won't get much sleep tonight .... (we share a wall). OH... the PA system has just started .... and the thumping music ..... arreba, areba!!!!!!! )

Reflections of Lima

What a mixture ... in some ways, Lima is a HUGE city(over 9 million people apparently ) with some very modern areas as well as beautiful historic areas - beautiful plazas, elaborate balconies, well-maintained parks (people don't walk on the grass areas) ... and particularly the Parque de Luz – park of Lights, which has magnificent fountains with light and laser show. Spectacular ... and definitely worth a visit ... for 4 sole entry!!

From Peru 2 - 2009

But traffic is chaotic!!! We travelled home by local bus. Buses can be 3 lanes wide and passengers, or would be passengers need to dodge through choked lanes of buses to get on of off their bus in the middle of the road. Some of the buses are modern, but many appear to be very old indeed. All traffic weaves back and forth across 3, 4 or 5 lanes of constantly beeping, bumper to bumper traffic.... Well out of the city area, the road is shared with motor-taxis (like the tuk-tuks in Asia). Not sure what 'peak hour' is here.... but we struck traffic like this at 10pm on the night we arrived ..... as well as earlier on other nights.

In the suburban areas, not far out of the city, street vendors line the streets – even at night time. Many hot food stalls seem to become social meeting places. While there are very modern shopping areas, these local market areas are a way of life in Peru... something that seems to be valued and desirable as a cheaper way to purchase items, and probably necessary where wages are not so good.

Grande Familia .... Milka´s suegra meets more of the family

Met more of Milka's family today ... I met aunts, uncles, cousins as well as Milka's grandmother, who is 91, and has difficulty hearing. What an interesting lunch experience it was ... being the only English speaker in a room full of Spanish speakers. The air was filled with lots of laughter, and lots of very fast Spanish voices. Most of what was spoken went over my head, but I found myself laughing along with them – laughter was so contagious.

But they are incredibly welcoming and friendly ... in fact we are invited back for a family party this Friday.

From Peru 2 - 2009

Looking from the outside ..... to see the main gate of the prison

There's a prison near where we are staying in Lima and when they asked if I wanted to see the main gate to the prison ... I thought ... a gate is a gate ... do I want to see a gate.... not really. But apparently this is worth seeing ... so off we went.

The corner of the street leading up to the gate was filled with vendor's stalls and I innocently (or ignorantly) said...'Oh .. another market.' and Milka said, 'Similar'. We wandered along through the stalls selling food items , drinks, fruit, hot food as well as skirts and sandals. Milka explained that the skirts and sandals are for sale as well as for rent ... by women visiting the jail as they aren't allowed in wearing jeans or closed-in shoes. What an innocent, protected life I lead.

As we got further along the rows of stalls the crowd was thicker ... and the girls whispered amongst themselves and directed me onto the street . .. away, apparently from the long queue that was waiting to enter the prison for visiting day. Today it was women's visiting day, and the area was filled with women and children laden with bags of food and personal items to be taken into the prison. Obviously, given my previous faux pas with photos, we kept the camera well hidden – so no photos of the prison gate ... or the crowds outside

Long bus trip .... and more

One day when I'm back home I plan to check out the road from Cusco to Lima via Ica on Google Earth .... I'm sure it's as picturesque as other trips over the mountains that we've taken, but my experience was somewhat different.

Milka and I took a night bus ... so we were never going to see very much. The bus was very comfortable ...only 3 seats across (2 + 1) – almost horizontal recline, blanket and pillow supplied, good meals – we even got earphones and toothbrushes. But the road was very twisty!!! We seemed to be coming down the mountain FOREVER!!!! I awoke from 'bus-sleep' early dawn, and through slightly open curtains could see some of the landscape. We were winding our way across the top of a very high plain. I couldn't believe that we were still soooo high!! As we continued our torturous descent, my stomach began the journey up, and we still had 3-4 more hours to go. We'd been on several bus trips in recent weeks ... but nothing affected me like this one – it must be an amazing road .... one I will have to see on Google Earth. Our return to Cusco will be a flight!!!!

We got off the bus in Ica, then took a local bus to Paracas (about 50km). Ica is in a valley in what looks like a desert. It's amazing to see crops and particularly grapes growing in pure sand.

Milka has a block of land near Paracas – an new area of land has been released ... and for a small amount of money, blocks can be obtained, some improvements are required and someone needs to live there .... but there are no services!! Eventually, when more people live in the area, services will be provided. Not quite the way development happens in our world ... but also VERY different amounts of money involved. So Milka's mum lives out there part of the time ... to help meet the requirements. It's a way for Milka to eventually have land in her name, something that is not as common as home.

The area could be described as ... sandy beach area (apparently 8km from the coast), views of sand dunes, rich soil (can grow anything ... when you get rid of the salt ... and if you can provide enough water) ... there is water to the area .... 1 tap for all.

From Peru 2 - 2009

I think she is a special lady .... don't think I could live out there. We were picked up from the bus by Milka's uncle who also lives out there with his wife. His car has to be seen to be believed ... even older and more dilapidated than Cusco taxis ... station wagon, but didn't need to open the back for our bags ... they went in the front where the passenger seat used to be. He filled the oil and put a bit of fuel in the tank, and we were off.... LOUDLY ... at a walking pace. About 4-6kms, we turned off the bitumen and took a sandy track for 20-25 minutes.

The 'house' is basic one room ... but from others I've seen, this is 'grande' ... solid timber (not woven straw). The also have a few other common structures – kitchen as well as animal enclosures.

In years to come .... this place may well be something else!!!

Late in the afternoon, we went back to the highway and waited for a bus to Lima, 245kms, which took more than 4 hours.

As a local bus, it made frequent stops to pick up and drop off passengers as well as numerous vendors who hop on the bus and travel between stops .... hawking things like drinks, sandwiches, lollies, fruit, jellies etc.

In Lima with my daughter in law

We are still in Lima with Milka's grande familia ... and she's doing an amazing job translating for me. Everything .... EVERYTHING is very different!!! Will try to record some of these experiences, but photos will have to wait.

We're at the airport this morning to see Jeff and Jill before they return to OZ ... and since our laptop is sooo small, we have it with us ... hence this brief message.

Festival day is Cusco

Collected a September calendar from Tourist Information office in Cusco - lists all the festivals for the month- and discovered that there was a festival in Cusco Saturday for World Tourism Day. Then we discovered that Milka was participating in the parade with her Tourism school. Awesome ... and so that we didn't miss a good vantage spot, we started reasonably early with breakfast at Jack's ... anyone who's been to Cusco will know about Jacks... and luck was on our side and we didn't have to queue at the door.

Got a good vantage spot around 11am - people at the tourist office thought the parade started at 10am ... Milka was told to be there around 1pm... so we weren't taking any chances. It was the hottest day yet in SA... and we were in full sun, on the top of the stand in the plaza... awesome.

People watching was very interesting .... lots of hat sellers (yes we bought more hats), ice blocks, drinks, food as well as the usual tourist items.

Around 11.30 the first of the groups entered the plaza. Apparently they had assembled and marched from a long way up the hill through several other plazas before reaching Plaza de Aramas. The whole parade was very colourful and at times quite loud. A fantastic spectacle as various groups danced their way through the streets. Zac joined us and got frequent updates from Milka ... we're about 30 mins away ... Not quite. About 4pm, Milka's school group entered the plaza ... they were awesome. Two groups dresses in either orange or green predominately led the group and danced back and forth in front of us, then another group in assorted costumes representing various cultural groups and areas carried colourful strips of material representing the Cusco flag. Milka was dressed in a costume from the jungle where she was born. Lucky it was a warm day ... but I'm sure many others sweltered in teir thick, dark, multi;lyered costumes.

BTW ... today I am taking a bus with Milk ... we're going to Lima for a few days. I also have a Spanish dictionary with me ... as Lex is staying here with Zac. Should be fun. Jeff and Jill got an early start this morning - they have hired a car and are taking a road trip to visit some alpaca places. Another adventure...

We made it home

Our 5 hour bus ride back to Cusco turned out to be an 8 hour ride. It seems our new tour guide did OK, although there was one occasion where the words 'stick with us, we'll show you a good time' were echoing in our ears. Not far out of Puno, we struck some roadworks. The side-track was 'cross-country' ... across the flat. There was congestion as trucks, buses and cars from both directions pushed forward. Our driver obviously took the wrong path .... through very slippery mud from previous night's rain, and we started to slide ... sideways!!!

A couple of guys on the roadside smiled and lay back on the bank to watch the spectacle ....I thought we could be stuck for a while. Bus boys hopped out and started gathering stones to put under the back wheels and just ahead of us the path was blocked by a truck. The scene didn't look promising, but before too long we were inching our way forward and onto firmer ground.... and on our way again.

The bus stopped at Juliaca around 10.30am, and we considered buying something from the ladies lined up outside the bus station fence, with arms stretched through the fence holding their wares.... plastic bags of coloured liquid or buns, empanadas or similar .... we couldn't be sure. At an earlier stop, women had been selling plastic bags of potatoes and cheese or trout, potatoes and rice. We were thinking ... 5 hours ... our water should be enough. More than 6 hours on the road, at a control point stop, more bags of unknown food were proffered to bus patrons. From other scenes around that area, we think the item might have been pork crackling.

From Puno to Cusco, we passed through high flat plains beside Lake Titikaka, though valleys surrounded by high peaks, over ranges between he valleys – there's always something interesting to see. In the fertile valleys, intensive agriculture is mostly done by hand, and on the higher plains cattle, sheep or alpacas graze, usually tended by a herder. Mud brick is the most common building material .. and in some areas newly made bricks are laid out too dry.

Streets of towns we passed though around 1pm were filled with children coming out of school – kids all dressed in school uniforms, often making purchases from local street vendors on their way. We've been told on more than one occasion (and in more than one country) that school starts at 7.30 and goes until 1pm when the kids come home ... that would give 5 hrs of tuition with half hour break. Kids have to take all their books home, because the classrooms are used by other classes during the afternoon. Interesting...

We finished our day with lunch at Two Nations restaurant (run by an Aussie) in Cusco (around 6pm). Promised Aussie Burgers will have to wait for another day ... as the rest of the menu was too enticing.

Note to self.... don't believe a lady in the boot when she tells you the bus trip from Puno to Cusco takes 5 hours .... it's definitely more like 8 hours!!!

A day on the lake

Lake Titikaka is one of those special places. It's a HUGE lake shared between Peru and Bolivia - the floating islands of Uros and Taquile Is are both on the Peruvian side. Our trip visited both these areas - the floating islands are not far from Puno, but Taquile Is is some distance.

Tourism is their main source of income. There are so many boats making these trips and the island people are well prepared for visitors. Boats visit different islands in the Uros group - we were met by the family, treated to an explanation of how the islands are built and how they live and trade, before being invited to look around their small island and into their homes. One man (can't remember his name ... only his son's name - Frank) invited us into his one room home - half of it was taken up with a bed. He explained that the house is small because it is easier to warm a small room.

Meanwhile the women are outside with their handicrafts are spread out for sale. Earlier they asked us not to give their children money as it sets up a bad precedent where they will expect it in future - best way to help is to buy some of their handicrafts. We did.

We also took a ride in one of their reed boats ... to another island. Boats last for 2 years .. and interestingly they contain 2000 plastic soft drink bottles to give the flotation. Great recycling...

Next on to Taquille island ... brisk uphill walk to our lunch venue. Long tables were set up near a group of family homes ... not in the township. We were treated to loacl music dancing ... some of the group even got to join in the dancing - not bad at altitude (says Jill), before a lunch of quinoua soup followed by grilled trout, rice and papas fritas. DELICIOUS.

Then up to the top of the village .... more steep uphill, and only a short time to look around and make some purchases. Suffice to say here, Peruvians are extremely reluctant to take American dollars which have even the slightest rip, tear or mark!!!

Long boat ride home ...and the wind and swell made it even longer, I think.

Back to Cusco today.....

Nancy in the boot ... turns up a gem.

Remember the lady who met us at the bus station (touting) - well she met us at the hotel yesterday morning to escort us to the port for our day trip on Lake Titikaka ... once again travelling in the boot. She's arranged our bus tickets for today, so she will meet us this morning for our trip to the bus station and will most likely travel in to boot again ... along with our growing luggage - can't be comfortable.

BUT ... the boat trip she organised for us yesterday turned up a real find. Jeff (the alpaca breeder) has been trying to find out about a particular alpaca place between Puno and Cusco (won't even try to spell it) ... and whilst talking to our guide for the day ... who had to say everything twice ... in Spanish and English.. we discovered she comes from a small (very small village) with the same name. Amazing - we had searched the internet for info ... but nothing.

We got talking with her about her village ... which she only visits once a year - in December and January during the rainy season so she can help her family on the farm. To get there she travels part way by bus and then she has to take a donkey or a llama the rest of the way.

She and Jeff also talked about alpacas ... it seems the shear their alpacas by hand ...not with shears but using tin from sardine tins. Life is certainly different over here.

We made it to Puno

I'm sure you're all waiting to hear that news!!!!

We even managed a taxi ride ... with an extra person ... to a hotel.... negotiated a better price ... after we asked about wifi from our room (we are feeling starved without ready internet access) and then after we settled in to our room ... moved to ones with wifi.

The extra passenger.... well as we came through Puno bus station we were approached by a woman - thought she may have been touting for hotels etc, and it seems she was. First told us how much a taxi would cost to town, asked about hotels and suggested some but we had Zac's recommendation in mind. She escorted us out to our taxi and told him where we wanted to go, helped us pile our bags into the back (we now have an extra bag so the count was 2 big bags, 2 medium bags, and 3 back packs), and then she squeezed in as well. Must have been very uncomfortable.

We booked a tour with her to the islands tomorrow.... so she got something for her trouble.

“Stick with us. We'll show you a good time.”

The above statement came from Jeff and Lex ... as we headed out of La Paz this morning.

They had bought tickets the previous day ... to Puno, and returned feeling very chuffed with their achievements!! Bus going to Puno (tick), Good bus (Cama ... should be lay back seats) (tick) Good seats – not next to the toilet (tick), Good price – 240 Bolivianos for 4 of us ... that's less than $10 each (tick) and a reasonable start time at the station at 8am (tick).

Was this the bus we would be travelling on?? No comment.....

From Peru 2 - 2009

Well we were at the station anxiously waiting to see this bus .... short delay, and we were on. Promised 'GOOD' seats didn't turn out so good. Yes they were front row, which on a double decker would mean great views, but front row on a single level bus is behind the driver's cabin which is secluded by curtains ... so we only had limited side views.

No problem ... most of the valley was covered in haze this morning so the view wasn't that good anyway. El Alto is the bustling satellite city at the top of the valley .... and it was very busy. Stopped for a fuel stop somewhere along El Alto .... no sooner got going then we did a U turn and entered the fuel stop on the opposite side of the road. Weren't there long and we took off again ... back towards La Paz one hour after leaving it. No explanation ... one of the passengers came forward and tapped on the conductor's door ... and although we couldn't understand the exchange, we gathered from what was said by her and other passengers we were headed back to La Paz.

Well not quite ... another turn and we realised we were headed for Uyuni .... remember the nightmare night bus ride??? None of us were keen to do that again. After 4 stops to try to refuel this bus .... many back streets and U-turns, we ended up back at the second fuel stop we'd made .... and waited in line. It was now more than 2 hours since leaving La Paz, and the conductor came through with a bag of empanadas and plastic cups. Naturally we took what was offered ... but the looks on our faces were priceless when he produced a thermos container that looked more like a fuel can and poured steamy yellow liquid into each of the cups.

There was a long pause as we each waited to see who would taste the liquid first. It turned out to be very sweet tea. We were fit to burst by this stage ... and Jeff says “Stick with us. Didn't we say we'd show you a good time!” Jeff even added a nip of ron (rum) to his to make it more palatable ... not!

And I could hear Zac whispering in my ear ....'That's Bolivia!'

Great to get news of Dea and Jothy's baby at this stage of our journey. Congratulations to all, and thanks for getting the news to us.

Eventually we were on our way ... and managed the border crossing, quite uneventfully. We even caught up with the Tucan bus which was leaving La Paz about the same time and were including the tour of Tiwinaku. The border was sooo much less chaotic than last time wee were here ... not a market day, so queues were short and our entry to Peru went smoothly.

Yes Milka ... we can do it. We did it!

Check back later for photos .....

Highlights from La paz

We had a day in La Paz on our own – but we managed to fill it up with shopping. Things in Bolivia are very cheap ... particularly if you earn your money in Au dollars and spend it in Bolivianos. Thee exchange rate of Bolivianos to US$ is about 7 to 1. So a meal costing around 45 Bs would be less than $8 US so a bit more in Aussie money.

Also seems ridiculous to be bargaining the price of items down ... such as reducing thee price of a bag down from 45Bs to 40 Bs ... but we do it. Item is still less than $10

Streets in certain areas of the city are huge market areas – some selling tourist type items, but we also went through a huge area of local markets selling clothing, food, shoes as well as grog. Stalls selling similar items or services are all grouped together. Some traders have shops but many, many more are set up on stands in the street. At night, everything gets packed away or wrapped up using plastic tarps.

Many street traders are selling drinks or juice. They usually have a few glasses filled ready to go. These need to be consumed at the stall, but if you want a take-away, you get it in a small plastic bag tied at the top – was reminded about these this morning at the bus station, when I saw a girl with plastic bag full of yellow liquid and a straw sticking out of the top. Seems to be common in Peru and Bolivia.

Photos

Have uploaded LOTS of pictures today from Uyuni and our salt adventures - Click on the slide show to view them. No pictures from La Paz yet. Going out soon to check out some more of the town.
Bye to all - hope you are enjoying our trip too...

Another night bus

We topped off our Uyuni visit with a fantastic pizza dinner at the hotel restaurant – Minuteman Pizza ... Pizza with Altitude 3670m. Been there – done that - Bought a T-Shirt. Really was the best pizza we've had in South America. Great food, great atmosphere and really friendly staff.

Shouldn't have enjoyed so much pizza and vino tinto ... because we followed our dinner with an overnight bus to La Paz – not so bad ... but about half the trip was on the roughest road ever. Worse than the Mistake Creek road ... or any other we have travelled on in Australia. We were sitting in the FRONT row on the TOP deck, so had a great view of the road ... when a view was possible through the clouds of dust. I should say that Lex had a great view, because I pulled the curtain across my view!!!! He reckons the 'road' ran along a creek bed for parts of the way. The vibrations (is there a stronger word than this???) shook everything ... moving our shoes and Jeff's laptop several rows back. They were lucky to rescue the laptop just before it slid down the stairs 2 rows behind their seat.

We arrived in La Paz just before daylight ... 11 hours on the bus and not game to brave the bus toilet ... the lights of this city from El Alto .. the top of the valley... is spectacular but not as good as the daylight view in my opinion.

Zac and Milka caught up with some sleep while we explored the streets and markets with Lex as the Tour Guide. I had remembered Zac's warnings from our previous trip – remove jewellery – carry as little as possible – be careful about people's sensitivities when taking pictures.
But we still drew attention to ourselves.

We wandered through market areas – tourist markets, witches markets (with all the llama fetuses etc) as well as local markets – clothing, food, party things etc. The scenes of bags stuffed with all sorts of items, people loaded with large heavy bags on their backs, babies sleeping amidst the goods or playing in cardboard boxes beside the stall, all the women in their colourful skirts, shawls and hats .... we just had to sneak a few snaps.

A local said something to us about 'la bolsa' – wasn't sure if he was warning us to be careful about the small bag containing a few purchases or to put the camera in the bag (balsa). But I put the camera away anyway ... to be on the safe side. Traffic around this area is chaotic with stalls set up on the roadway, pedestrians all over the roadway and cars and small minivans (buses) ploughing on through. Crossing these roads is a nightmare – and can only be achieved in stages, leaving us stranded in the middle of traffic often.

So when a group of local police ran passed me down the road and stopped the others (Lex, Jeff and Jill) .... with conversation in broken English and Spanish ... we were left wondering if we were being chatted because of – jay walking – taking photos in sensitive areas or violating peoples' privacy... or warning us about being in dangerous areas.

We hung about the street a bit longer (we weren't far from our hotel by this stage) as Jeff was getting his glasses fixed, and the group of police also remained in the area ... watching us. Not for long, because they approached us again, this time with an officer who could speak English. He explained that the area we'd been in was not safe for tourists – thieves, bag snatchers etc, and they wanted to warn us to be careful. They also asked if we needed help (as we hadn't moved on). They were very friendly and very caring about our safety.

Needless to say, Zac's reaction was a classic .... Mum, didn't I tell you to be careful about taking photos ... etc, etc, etc. Who's lecturing who now???

Next time we went out we went with Zac and Milka (our guardians).

Will be different today though ... as Zac and Milka have caught a plane back to Cusco - some people have to work, while we will stay in La Paz for another day before heading off to Puno. Should be interesting .... a border crossing on our own - without Zac.

Wait for the next entry .... hope there is a next!!!!

So much sal!!!

Arrived in Uyuni around 2am ... piled into a taxi – all 6 of us, 5 big bags, 4 backpacks.... (Hey this is Bolivia isn't it.) and then checked into a hotel ... across the road from the Bolivian Army Barracks .. so NO FOTOS there – in fact signs all around the hotel warn people against taking photos in the military zone.

Zac has a great rapport with hotel and restaurant staff so we were treated to a superb breakfast ... even brought out the large jar of vegemite for us. We had a tour of the salt flats booked, so around 10.30am we headed out in a 4-wheel drive – 6 of us, a driver and a cook ... lunch was provided.


Stopped at a small village on the edge of the salt flat ... explanation of their process for drying and packaging salt – all done by hand, and a look around a few market stalls – few salt carved products which were interesting. Wonder how they will stand up to a bit of humidity.

Next stop was a train cemetery ... not sure of the history, but there was talk about Butch Cassidy county.

Now for a drive out onto the salt flat ... which is so much smoother than the rough dirt road we had driven on to get there. But why would you keep driving further out into the salt flat (I thinks to meself ... afterall it{s all the same). But keep driving we did ... miles. Then we stopped for a photo shoot ... well playing around on the salt flat.... now this was more like it. May have to wait for the best of those pics ... they are still on Zac{s camera. (oops... I am on a Spanish keyboard in and Internet Cafe .. no wifi in our hotel, sadly)

From Peru - 2009

Then we kept driving... to an island in the salt. Looked as deserted as the rest ... had only seen a few vehicles ... but around the back of the island... and it was like being on Fraser ... lots of 4-wheel drives all parked up to the island ... and loads of people sitting at picnic tables ... made from salt.

It wasn{t long until our picnic was ready too and we sat down to chicken and salad, which we followed up with a walk around the island, more photos with HUGE cactus plants ... then more playing around on the salt.

It was another amazing, amazing day ... and so much more than had expected. Just like every other day.

More to write about our next adventure ... we are in La Paz now ... and there{s lots to go and look at so more will have to wait until later.... Bye.

Bolivia... we made it. Another border crossing.

Leaving Salta... and Argentina today. First stage is by bus to a town on the Argentinian border – La Quiacha. Once again we passed through spectacular scenery, climbed the mountains before travelling across the high pampa flatlands. I's not difficult to imagine how this mountainous area came about ... all the layers show how the landscape was formed as well as the movement and turmoil that must have taken place millions of years ago. The vertical, angular as well as rolling strata layers (if that's the right terminology) is really amazing.

At the border, we collected our luggage, enlisted the services of a local and his taxi-barrow to carry our gear the several hundred yards from the bus station .... through the township, and the border crossing ... to the Bolivian side.

Well, we were now at 3700m ... and feeling the altitude on the brisk walk trying to keep up with our barrow pusher .. an elderly, small but sprightly man. Once we arrived at the Border Control checkpoint, we joined the line of people waiting to have passports stamped, while our barrow pusher took the luggage along the roadway to the other side of the building ... and waited. This was a rather anxious time .. the line we were in wasn't moving, while a steady steam of locals and what looked like large groups of tourists filed straight past us and the checkpoint. At first we weren't able to see our barrow pusher or luggage, and there was much joking about whether he would wait to be paid the 10 Bolivianos promised ... or nicked off and sold our luggage for considerably more.

But he appeared at the other side of the building ... waiting and watching for us – rather hoped he might be watching our luggage. Zac had planned the trip to allow about 3 hours to get through both crossings and on to the station for the train leg.... but with talk of closing the office for lunch on top of the time we had already waited ... we surged towards the window ... Zac handed over all passports for us like a tour group ... and suddenly we were through. Lucky, 'cos Jill was freaking out about not having the Argentinian entry form that we completed on entering Argentina ... and which is collected when you leave the country. Not her fault ... cos the border guard on entry kept both copies of her form ... and we were told not to worry about it ... I'm sure she did.

On to the border ... show passports again and explain that our barrow pusher had our luggage ... and yes it was all clothes (ropas). Yes our barrow pusher was still there with ALL of our bags - woohoo.

Now to enter Bolivia ... more queues ... and forms. The queue was huge .... but this time it looked like locals, not tourists – so we followed Zac into the the office – completed our entry forms, had passports stamped ... and entered Bolivia.

Our barrow pusher, unfortunately couldn't go any further so our luggage was unloaded from the Argentinian barrow to a Bolivian barrow – the station was supposedly only 6 blocks from there ... and a price was negotiated.

Nearly got myself into some really hot water at this point ... boys went off to change some money, and I stepped back to take a photo of Jill and Milka with our barrow load of luggage on the Bolivian side ... when one of the other barrow pushers started shouting, jumping about wielding a lump of wood ... and apparently threatening to kick me. i got the message that he didn't want me to take a photo ... even though the camera wasn't pointed at him ... so I took refuge with the guys ... in the Cambio, leaving Milka and Jill to guard our load with our new Bolivian barrow pusher – who turned out to be a real whinger. Yes, he did have to push uphill, and it was much more than 6 blocks – but he agreed to the price.

The station left much to be desired – nothing like bus stations which are full of people selling food, drinks etc. There was nothing there ... and nothing to indicate it was a station. Zac and Milka managed to get chicken, rice and chips for all back in town ... a very greasy birthday lunch which was supplemented by some beer and coke from the shop across the road. Beer, just off the shelf, was cold enough, but care was definitely needed when opening ... and effect of altitude.

A few more beers were acquired ... hasitly ... for the train trip only to find out that the sell beer on the train so don't permit BYOs. That didn't deter these three Aussie drinkers ... who had to hide their cans every time the Beer Police (aka guards) came through.

Writing this whilst on the train ... scenery continued to be spectacular, we've been served a meal ... fruit juice, black coffee, biscuits and butter and jam. YUM!! Another terrifiic birthday meal.

It's now dark, so we're unable to appreciate the scenery – movies are shown in Spanish, so might be time to catch some shut eye. I think we may be on the train until 1am ... time keeps creeping back, but the good thing is that we are booked in to a hotel for whatever time we arrive. Also have a tour booked to visit the salt flats in the morning .... and then a night bus for the long trio to La Paz .... which is even higher.

The adventure continues ... will try to upload whenever I can.

Big day out ... more than wine tour

Another HUGE day today ... in Argentina. We set off reasonably early (7.30 is much earlier than we have been getting up lately ... but not as early as we need to be up tomorrow ... 4.30!!!) and didn't get home until 9pm.

We headed south from Salta for the wine area of Cafayate, 180km or so ... but it takes hours .. about 4 hours. 75 km through an amazing gorge ... spectacular rock formations and scenery. On the way out we stopped a couplee of times ... to take photos, but stopped for even more on the way home, when the light was better for photos.

From Peru - 2009

At Cafayate, we visited 2 wineries, had a super lunch at a really nice hotel/hacienda, and a bit of time to browse around the plaza (and shops) while Zac and Milka went horse riding.

We're all tired tonight.... a pity it's too late for an early night (11pm here already), because we have to be out of here at 5am ... for the next stage of our mystery tour.

We have a bus trip to a touwn on this side of the Argentine-Bolivian border ... after that I understand we need to cross the border, possibly on foot, and then a train ride to somewhere in Bolivia .... our tour leader has told us to be prepared for a long train ride... and possibly cold conditions. So here we go again...

Thanks all for the birthday wishes. Celebrated my birthday today ... Australian time ... rather than tomorrow, witth a big travel (bus and train) day.

Argentinian experience

I'm sitting quietly in a bar ... with wireless internet access (and a nearby power point) and very thankful for this tiny (and often frustrating) laptop.

I've just had a visit from a young girl, who'd only be about 6 or 7 ... trying to sell a handful of socks and stockings. Last night we had a couple of young kids in the restaurant around 11pm (one was about 10 and he had his arm around a younger boy about 4 or 5) ... they were just asking for money. Restaurant owners seem to tolerate them for a short while and then usher them to the door.

Sad to see kids out in the streets and bars like that....

The Artesan shops have many of the same items as Peru and Chile ... (maybe) alpaca jumpers, scarves, beanies etc ... but there's also a lot of leather, slightly different ceramics, silver aand jewellery. They also don't seem to enter into haggling so much, although it does happen on the more expensive items. I usually think I should have bought things ... after we leave a place. I like to look at things, but I'm not much of a shopper, really. Does that surprise anyone?

Our hotel is right on the Plaza, where there is a magnificient Cathedral. it's painted pink and pale yellow, it looks spectacular all lit up at night, but while we have been here it has been full of large groups of school students. Groups flood into the plaza and then into the Cathedral - not sure how long they stay, but we've seen them going in in the morning, and throughout the day and even around 5pm. So we've been in a couple of times to check it out .... it is really spectacular - no photos sorry, and the singing that we've heard (with responses from students) is very moving.

Shopping here is interesting. Not sure what time shops open up as we haven't been up early - our room has no external window or light source, but everything seems to shut around 1pm or so and doesn't re-open until 5.30pm - then they are open until about 9 or 10pm. Difficult to get used to.

Tomorrow we have a wine tour planned ...mmmm should be good.

Peace and quiet has just been disturbed by loud bangs, rhythmic drumming and whistling. A small group of people in costume protesting .... about tourism I think.... Something to follow up on later

Across the Andes in a bus

We´re getting comfortable with bus travel here ... but still couldn´t do it without Zac.

Caught a bus from San Pedro ... forgot to tell you the bus office was closed when we got back from out sunset desert tour ... but Zac managed to phone the office ... meet the lady AND get the last 6 seats on the bus to Salta leaving 10.30 next morning. So here we were waiting for a bus in the middle of a dusty paddock, that served as the bus stop (he didn´t tell us how long the trip would take ... just that we would be going over 5000m so pack warm clothes for the bus. Certainly was a mystery tour).

From Peru - 2009

Breakfast boxes are handed out - great because we´d had strange Chilean bread and bananas for breakfast ... don´t get too excited, it was juice and a couple of small biscuits. 200m down the road and we stop for the Chilean border control point. Paperwork handed out for the Argentinian border as well. We file out of the bus ... through the control point, passports stamped and back on the bus. Then we wait .... for about an hour ... someone´s documents weren´t right.

On for a couple of hours ... through amazing desert mountain scenery ... barren ... and going up ... up ... up... almost straight up the mountains. Then another stop ... for the Argentinian Border Control point. By now we were very high ... probably around 5000m ... and the wind chill factor was at freezing. And we felt it because the passport check point office was very small and they only allowed groups of 5 into the room at a time. VERY chilly. Then back to the bus ... pick up a lunch box ... biscuit, juice and fruit... and then another long wait. We were there just over 2 hours ... someone else hadn´t done their paperwork properly - more people on the bus than paperwork stamped!!!!

More spectacular scenery - small frozen patches on some peaks, frozen creeks and lakes on the high plains, some vicunas, alpacas --- but so little vegetation. Late afternoon, and we seemed to be going downhill forever and then we passed a sign .... 4100m. We were still way up in the Andes... and the mountains stretched forever before us. We were on TOP of the world.

From Peru - 2009

From Peru - 2009

Sadly were were losing light as we continued the descent down the other side - not that I like being on the window seat and looking down from such great heights - but it was truly spectacular (I was on the aisle seat). The mountains are massive, huge folds of land, deep gorges from thousands (probably millions) of years of erosion. We passed through deep canyons, down long, straight sections and eventually down zig-zag, multi-hairpin bends. Looking up, we had travelled down a long way ... looking forward, we were still above the further peaks.... and still the road wound down .... It was so breath-taking - just wish there were some pictures to so ... but the light was fading. And amazingly, as remote and barren as this area is, we passed the occassional dwelling ... or even a person walking along.

From Peru - 2009

Finally thought we saw the bright lights of a city way off in the distance. Still more than an hour away.... and down, down ,down. I wouldn´t like to be driving this road myself, and was thankful for the skill of our driver as we swerved onto the gravel at a much lower altitude.

Town was Jujuy .... not Salta which was still anout hour and a half away.... and more down. Arrived at Salta ... late, think it was around 10.30pm ... Zac picked out a hotel from the people touting. Good find ... close to the plaza, negotiated the price DOWN ... 100 pesos per room per night (think that´s around $30) including bus transfers (2 taxis and the hotel paid), and breakfast. Not bad.

Checked in and then off to find a restaurant open at 11pm ... for some Argentinian beef. It was good!!!!

From Peru - 2009

More later... have overstretched my free 15 minutes ... and I need to find a power adapter ´cos I didn´t bring the right ones ... the Australian ones for here! Buggar!!

San Pedro de Atacama

... writing this from Salta, Argentina.... 3 countries in 3 days ... but that´s another story.

San Pedro first... sorry, pictures will have to wait.

Arrived in San Pedro by bus from Arica... not sure how long, but it was an overnight bus. We got on the bus around 10pm ... and arrived at San Pedro next morning sometime around 8 or 9 or 10am. Life is a blur. Another interesting bus trip. We had our big bags inspected and tagged at the bus station so when we arrived at a Control point somewhere in the middle of the night we only had to take our hand luggage off the bus... put it up on a bench and open the bags. No big deal, then back on the bus and back to sleep. We had our sleeping bags and were very comfortable - Semi-Cama bus and the seats recline well back.

From Peru - 2009

From Peru - 2009

The desert is spectacular. We must have climbed a long way up through the night - think Zac said we´d reach 5000m overnight, and then we went a long way down .... long, almost straight roads ... all the way to San Pedro.

Strange place ... reminds me a little of Lightning Ridge. All dwellings appear to be mud brick, low set and behind mud brick walls ... very dusty. Several touts for hostals met the bus, and Zac picked out a bargain for us ... 2 blocks (... plus) from the Plaza. That was an experience - bet you can´t wait to see the pictures of that place. ;-)

From Peru - 2009

We took an afternoon tour to Moon Valley - included a walk through a Salt Canyon, a couple of other places and a sunset view of the desert from a high point ... which was a really hard climb - we were still at 2400m.

From Peru - 2009

From Peru - 2009

Once back in town Zac organised a bus out to Salta the next morning - so we settled in for a meal ... and a few Chilean reds to complete our visit to Chile. Jeff even managed to do some work on the hot water system ... on the roof of the hostal during the night.... No wonder there was no water for Milka´s shower the next morning.

Chile is so much more expensive than other places .... but it is also so much harder to get used to the currency - BIG numbers with lots of zeros. Toilet stop costs 200 pesos. Large french fries at Maccas in Arica was 900 pesos. Pizza for lunch at San Pedro was 8,500 pesos - think that´s about $17 US - change that to Peruvian soles and it´s about 51 soles .... expensive in Zac and Milka´s eyes when you consider we had meals in top class restaurant with fantastic service for 35 soles.

Macdonalds in Arica Chile

We're just having papas frittas at Maccas in Chile. A long bus trip ... followed by a taxi ride ... border crossing which we could only manage with the assistance of Spanish speakers ... with some knowledge of how things work here. What an eventful day ... again.

Throughout the day I think of so many things to write about but just now they all evade me. I started off in the front seat of the bus ... on the top . Spectacular views - but all got too much for me with incredibly winding roads, passing other buses and trucks ... on double lines. I just had to swap places with Jill for a third row seat. It's such barren desolate country.

Whenn we reached the coast ... over the border in Chile, it really isn't much different.... still desolate, barren, but desert. So much sand. Will have to wait for the pictures.

The taxi ride across the border was well worth the 60 soles - our driver was in and out of the car on the Peruvian side as well as the Chilean side ... paperwork and customs checks. Another experience to add to our kitbag. Interesting that when you cross the Chilean border by car, you don't pay the $56US that you pay with entry into the Santiago airport.

Love to all....

FYI - Milka was most upset when we left Cusco that Lac and Katrina weren't coming with us, and today we left Mitch behind in Arequipa .... the group is getting smaller ... so more sadness.

Message to all

So much to write about ... I am behind again. We had an awesome day in the Colca Canyon - spectacular scenery, saw several condors ... just overheard, another great feast for lunch - even greater range than the previous day. Every day exceeds our expectations.

Gladys and Miguel have returned to Lima - today is Mitch's birthday, and his last day with us, so we celebrated in another amazing restaurant. Very classy place ... mains were about 35 soles. Still cheap.

Today we managed a bus trip around Arequipa and a tour of the Santa Catalina Monestry .... which I missed last time. HUGE place - lots of great photo opportunities.

Tomorrow morning ... early ... we are off on an early bus to Tacna ... somewhere near thee border ... then we're crossing the border into Chile ... and heading for San Pedro in the Atacama Desert ... well that's the plan. See how we go. We have tickets for the first bus trip ... but that doesn't mean much here.

Not sure when I will have an opportunity to update this. Also having trouble adding pics to the blog so please check the Picassa web ablum instead ... click on the slideshow or try this link http://picasaweb.google.com/lj4721/Peru2009#

Cheers Judy

Off to see the birds

Day 2 was an early start to join a tour to the Colca Canyon with an overnight stay

The road out of Arequipa passes through high snow-capped peaks to extremely dry – moonscape-like landscape.

Really hard to describe these scenes. The tour leader pointed out different community areas on the outskirts of this large city of over 1 million people, with 15% percent unemployment, large populations moving to the cities in the hope of better life ... and growing slums.

Out of Arequipa, we passed the antiplano, where we stopped several times to see vicuna, alpaca... and even something like a rabbit. Higest point on the journey was 4900m .... cold, but even at this vista point, several traders were out to sell their wares.


After going up for most of the morning we then descended into the fertile Colca Valley - where, after travelling on some rough roads we arrived as a small village of 750 people, and stopped at a magnificent hotel - what a treat in what is otherwise very poor areas with most dwellings made of rock or mud brick. Not only was the place spectacular, the buffet lunch - barbequed chicken and alpaca steaks along with a huge range of other dishes, followed by passionfruit mousse and cactus fruit mousse ... was soooo delicious. Evening buffet was just as stunning - we are definitely NOT going hungry. BTW - full 3 course buffet cost 22 soles ... less than $10.

Road Trip - Day 1

First day was a long bus trip from Cusco to Arequipa so tickets were bought for the deluxe, comfy bus leaving at 9am and travelling direct, instead of the 6am bus which is cheaper and makes frequent stops.

Short taxi ride to the bus station for 9 of us... only to find that the bus had broken down and a different bus would make the trip as far as Hulaycha, where we'd be able to board the deluxe bus. Not happy Jan! After much venting by Zac (after all this was his honeymoon trip) and some money refunded we were loaded onto the alternative bus. Interesting to see how careful he is to ensure that luggage is securely loaded together and preferably away from the general cargo/luggage area which would be accessed numerous times throughout the trip ... and where there was a distinct smell of fish from a previous cargo. Not for the first time that I have been thankful for the skill and determination of our tour leader .... Senor Tour Leader as Milka likes to call him. We'd been travelling for hours, when Milka asked, “Senor Tour Leader, what time is the lunch?” Lunch would have been served on the deluxe bus ... but not on this one. It was about 3 or 4pm when we pulled in to Hulyacha to change buses ... but there was little time to get anything other than packets of biscuits from nearby traders. The bus was waiting for us ... and why not – the 9 of us outnumbered the other passengers.

Back to that trip – we passed through amazing scenery. You don't have to go farout of Cusco to find small farming communities, mud brick houses, people in traditional clothing tending small numbers of animals, small festival groups dancing and singing, Inka ruins and vistas of snow capped mountains. Schools are interesting – often quite large, and students mostly very well dressed in uniforms.

The bus stopped several times to pick up passengers ... the first stop was just outside the bus station gates, where apparently cheaper tickets can be obtained. On one occasion 2 women carrying huge bundles wrapped in the usual bright cloth boarded the bus in the middle of nowhere. They struggled up to the top deck, and just as I was wondering how they were going to get it down the aisle with their load, they heaved it up onto a platform and started selling stuff from it. We didn't understand any of the language, but one went up and down the bus taking orders while the other proceeded to pull the bundle apart enough to dig into and chop servings of roasted lamb ribs off, shove them into a plastic bag along with a couple of potatoes. Our camera wasn't quick enough to capture this chopping action, sadly. When all customers had been served, they hopped off the bus, not doubt waiting for another bus in the opposite direction to take them back again.

No – we didn't have lamb and potatoes for lunch ... just biscuits.

Hulayaca has to be seen to be believed. Apparently it's not far from Puno and the Bolivian border ... and is a mecca for imported, black market goods. Biscuits we bought were made in Bolivia .... so for 2 soles, we got 1 packet wafer cream biscuits and a bottle of soft drink. It's also a dry, dustbowl with so much construction, unfinished buildings and litter. Don't stop there unless you have to.

The new bus was spacious – only 3 seats across, good recliners and footrests ... but really bad movies. Japanese or Chinese films with Spanish subtitles...

Arrived at Arequipa late – but really looking forward to checking out the sites I missed on our last visit here – no problems with 'altitude sickness' this time.

Peruvian Wedding

It´s Monday morning here ... and I am sneaking a little time on the computer (hoping that none of the other 11 people here tonight urgently need to use the computer because I MUST write about the wedding today). Why the rush .... well this morning we are off on the honeymoon with the bride and groom... unusual - Yes, but so is everything here in Peru. Their planned honeymoon had to be postponed due to Visa issues, so this trip is al alternative ... and we´re not here for very long so, we´re joining them. In fact 9 of us will be heading off together this morning in less than one hour.

The fantastic wedding day started off with breakfast in an amazing surroundings .... Royal Inka Hotel in the Pisac Valley, surrounded by high mountains, Inca terraces and ruins, quaint mud brick houses and gum trees!!!! Breakfast was individually cooked omelettes ... with ingredients of your choice. Chef was a real showman as well.

After breakfast the procession of people in the hotel´s salon began with 2 family friends taking over the salon and for makeup and hair styling. ... I was first in line. Interesting ... with no common communication - all good.

Getting ready was a communial affair as people moved between the ´grande´rooms - sharing whatever they had, and other guests arriving, beging introduced etc. The boys looked spectacular.... I was very proud of both of them. The eyes were starting to leak already ... and in my head I could hear Milka saying to me ...´no woman no cry!´. I was trying very hard, but it didn´t work.

Party and celebration mode was already in full swing ... but Peru time was also working overtime. Things just don´t always go to plan. A bus organised to pick up many of the guests in Cusco didn´t arrive on time with some guests then arranging taxis so they would arrive in time. Some, including members of the official wedding party didn´t make it before the ceremony began ... but made it by the end - all good. They were there to sign paperwork and take part in photo sessions.

The bride and groom just beamed with happiness and emotions all round were overflowing. The service, in a very small 16th century church was in both Spanish and English ... and was very emotional. Milka did a reading in Spanish and Zac did one in English. The priest included the Australian visitors throughout the service, even commenting on the great distance we all travelled to be here etc. There was much standing and sitting sitting -no room for kneeling, and when the ceremony was over, many photos were taken IN the church - so much shuffling took place as various groups took their place beside the bride and groom ... with this amazing church background.

Many photos were taken in and around the hotle grounds, before Zac and Milka took off to have more photos taken around Pisac surrounds. Guests drifted off to the reception area to await the arrival of the bride and groom. When they arrived, they were introduced, champagne flowed and the wedding dance began - Zac and Milka danced together and then family members were introduced to dance with them.

Can´t remember the sequence of events - there was lots of champagne, wine and Zac´s beers (several different brews), good food, loud music and MUCH dancing. Somewhere in the middle of it all there was another ceremony - a civil service, cutting of the cake, boquet throwing, Zac taking off Milka´s garter, which was then trhown for the guys to catch, something else with a lot of ribbons hanging out of a large glass, and much more dancing. Pervuians certainly can dance!!! The music continued non-stop until about 9pm - not bad for a wedding that took place at 12.30pm. Some Aussie guests were even seen to be getting dance lessons throughout the night!

It was a great party - which continued the next day with a cricket game, golf, swimming, local markets(for some) and some crazy 4-wheel bike racing.

Sorry - have to go - look for more photos whenever I can. Love to all.

Wedding day in Pisac

It´s the morning after here in Pisac.... the wedding was another AMAZING experience ... so much to write about, but unfortunately that will have to wait until we are somewhere else with better internet connection.

It was a HUGE day with lots of special moments... starting with breakfast... , 2 wedding ceremonies - a church one in both English and Spanish as well as a civil ceremony later in the afternoon, after much merry-making. Hope to have more details for all later today or tonight.

Pisac

Friday night ... and we are out at Pisac for the wedding ... that in itself is another adventure. Zac and Milka left early in the day to travel out to meet up with the priest. The rest of us travelled out after lunch. We were expecting a bus capable of seating 18 people .... a 15 seater arrived (for 17 of us), bags were thrown up on to the roof, 15 cases of wine were stowed on the roof or under seats, people were loaded on along with the wedding attire, numerous suit bags etc,... and 5 kegs of beer (brewed by Zac ) and the gas tank. What a load... then off along another winding mountain road and down into the spectacular valley.

Royal Inka Hotel is quite a sight. Our rooms are massive, the church is tiny, and the place has loads of interesting features. Today we cleaned the church ... ready for the wedding. Will try to get the pics up`loaded soon.

Familia grande

The family is growing and the house expands.

We came home from our Machu Picchu trip to find the house had grown to 13 people. Friday and people came and went and the place took on the air of a hair salon. Such a busy place.

Family members arrive from OZ

Sorry about the delay in posting ... for those who are waiting for updates and pictures. Life has been hectic, but the house has been moreso.

Lac, Katrina, Mike and Lou arrived last Monday, and Mitch arrived on Tuesday. Lac and Kat were extremely tired after almost 40 hours in transit .... shattered, but still on their feet, so we kept them going until night. Since their arrival we have visited numerous markets with everyone getting right into the spirit of bargaining, much to the disgust and disadvantage of the local traders. Everyone will have a little more to carry home.

We also had a family lunch at Senor Carbon - the meat restaurant mentioned previously. We all enjoyed that too. Didn´t give the new-comers long to settle into the high altitude conditions before tripping off to Machu Picchu. Our package included pickup in the city at 5.30 - so for those of us staying with Zac, it was a 4.30am wakeup and a taxi pickup into the city. Unfortunately Katrina was really ill - but keen to go, so we headed off with a bucket and several liners.... As Zac had predicted she came good as we descended from altitude into the lower heights of Machu Picchu .... and was able to enjoy the sites of this magnificent place.

In the city we were met by a guide, taken to a waiting bus for the 2 hour ride through snow capped mountains to Ollantaytambo, then onto the Vista Dome train .... train with glass panels in the roof to enable great views of the mountainous scenery. Spectacular ... and so much better than the Backpackers Train that we went on last time. Liek planes, we were served meals ... and on the home journey the staff provided entertainment - local dancing as well as a fashion parade of alpaca garments.

In Agues Callientes we were met by another guide, taken to our hotels and then back to the bus station for the zigzag ride up to Machu Picchu - with a 3 hour tour from another local guide followed by time to wander arounder by ourselves. This place is so impressive ... amazing amazing - even if you´ve seen it before. It´s simply breath-taking .. pictures /video don´t do it justice. Even the surrounding High mountains are spectacular. I love Agues Callientes ... village with a railway as the main street and pathways up the side of the mountain. The village has grown since we were here ... and there is so much construction taking place ... all rambling with no apparent plan.

We stayed the night and had time the following day to wander around, see a demonstration of musical instruments an, and scout around the markets before the trip home.

Sunday lunch with the family

Another surreal experience... It´s almost 4.30 pm, and lunch is almost ready... but so much has gone on before. Milka´s family are all here for Sunday lunch - Milka´s mum and dad, who have come from Lima with a grandaughter, Ximena, Milka´s sister, Mercy and brother in law, Rod (who is Australian) and 3 kids, and one of the bridesmaids from Lima, Isabella plus us Australians. We´ve already had delicious scallops in the shells, brought from Lima by Miguel, Milka´s dad, and cooked under the griller with cheese, garlic butter and lime.

Next we´re having a lamb roast, bought from the local market this morning, with gravy Australian style, courtesy of the Gravox brought from Oz. It´s been a riot - a mix of English and Spanish with bilinguals working hard! They have been so welcoming to us foreigners, it´s been wonderful! Plenty of drinks - Zac´s homebrew and a couple of nice wines, and we haven´t started lunch yet.

Many ´salud´s happening - a great day, on top of of the buck´s party - a bit of the hair of the dog! The boys woke up a bit slowly, but are in fine form now. Prior to the visitors arriving, we were banished to the bedrooms so that Milka and her mum could do the cleaning, which happens quite regularly. Everyone does exactly what Milka says - no doubt who wears the pants in this family! This is Jill blogging because Judy has a bit of a glow up and has difficulty with the typing - I put it down to emotional overload!

The house is filling up

Deciding to opt out of the hen's night, Jill and I came home from a successful shopping experience to meet Milka's dad. By successful, I mean we successfully managed to get from the Artisans Market where some purchases were bargained for. to a supermarket to buy household necessities, and home again. A simple task you might think – but think again. We managed to hail a taxi (stick your hand out and hope the car that stops is a taxi), tell the driver that you want to go to the 'Mega Mart' and how much will that cost– and he then comes back with a string of Spanish (I presume he's asking me which Mega Mart ... I know of at least 2 here) ... all I can say is 'No entiendo' and hope that we arrive at a Mega mart. The cost of 3 soles is now the least of our concerns ... but we are dropped off at a mega mart which I am familiar with, successfully make our purchases, and then get another taxi to home ... 'A Kennedy A, enfrente Inca Sur' .... see I have memorized our address, but that's the first time I have had to give the directions. I count that as 'successful'!

By this stage we are congratulating ourselves on our progress with Spanish... now for another experience – sharing a meal with Milka's mum, dad and niece, none of whom speak very much English, and no translators. Milka understands quite a bit of English, but sometimes has difficulty finding the English words to express what she wants to say. On these occasions she usually refers to Zac, or calls him on the phone if he's not around, and passes the phone to us for him to explain what she is trying to say. Tonight, Jill and I are on our own with Gladys, Miguel and Ximena ..... and a dictionary!!!!

We got the message that Milka's family think very highly of Zac ... opressio – esteem.

The house is filling up – lucky we're no longer in the small flat! There's 10 of us here tonight.

Lex said he met a young lady tonight, danced with her, and when it was time for home she got into the taxi with them - he wondered where they were dropping her off.... to discover she's staying here with us. Jeff tells a different story ... about a girl he met last night and brought home in a taxi...

Meet Isabelle, one of Milka's bridesmaids. Zac, Milka and Isabelle are on the floor tonight .... and although we feel somewhat uncomfortable, they wouldn't have it any other way. The more the merrier!!