Sunday, August 30, 2009

Bolivia... we made it. Another border crossing.

Leaving Salta... and Argentina today. First stage is by bus to a town on the Argentinian border – La Quiacha. Once again we passed through spectacular scenery, climbed the mountains before travelling across the high pampa flatlands. I's not difficult to imagine how this mountainous area came about ... all the layers show how the landscape was formed as well as the movement and turmoil that must have taken place millions of years ago. The vertical, angular as well as rolling strata layers (if that's the right terminology) is really amazing.

At the border, we collected our luggage, enlisted the services of a local and his taxi-barrow to carry our gear the several hundred yards from the bus station .... through the township, and the border crossing ... to the Bolivian side.

Well, we were now at 3700m ... and feeling the altitude on the brisk walk trying to keep up with our barrow pusher .. an elderly, small but sprightly man. Once we arrived at the Border Control checkpoint, we joined the line of people waiting to have passports stamped, while our barrow pusher took the luggage along the roadway to the other side of the building ... and waited. This was a rather anxious time .. the line we were in wasn't moving, while a steady steam of locals and what looked like large groups of tourists filed straight past us and the checkpoint. At first we weren't able to see our barrow pusher or luggage, and there was much joking about whether he would wait to be paid the 10 Bolivianos promised ... or nicked off and sold our luggage for considerably more.

But he appeared at the other side of the building ... waiting and watching for us – rather hoped he might be watching our luggage. Zac had planned the trip to allow about 3 hours to get through both crossings and on to the station for the train leg.... but with talk of closing the office for lunch on top of the time we had already waited ... we surged towards the window ... Zac handed over all passports for us like a tour group ... and suddenly we were through. Lucky, 'cos Jill was freaking out about not having the Argentinian entry form that we completed on entering Argentina ... and which is collected when you leave the country. Not her fault ... cos the border guard on entry kept both copies of her form ... and we were told not to worry about it ... I'm sure she did.

On to the border ... show passports again and explain that our barrow pusher had our luggage ... and yes it was all clothes (ropas). Yes our barrow pusher was still there with ALL of our bags - woohoo.

Now to enter Bolivia ... more queues ... and forms. The queue was huge .... but this time it looked like locals, not tourists – so we followed Zac into the the office – completed our entry forms, had passports stamped ... and entered Bolivia.

Our barrow pusher, unfortunately couldn't go any further so our luggage was unloaded from the Argentinian barrow to a Bolivian barrow – the station was supposedly only 6 blocks from there ... and a price was negotiated.

Nearly got myself into some really hot water at this point ... boys went off to change some money, and I stepped back to take a photo of Jill and Milka with our barrow load of luggage on the Bolivian side ... when one of the other barrow pushers started shouting, jumping about wielding a lump of wood ... and apparently threatening to kick me. i got the message that he didn't want me to take a photo ... even though the camera wasn't pointed at him ... so I took refuge with the guys ... in the Cambio, leaving Milka and Jill to guard our load with our new Bolivian barrow pusher – who turned out to be a real whinger. Yes, he did have to push uphill, and it was much more than 6 blocks – but he agreed to the price.

The station left much to be desired – nothing like bus stations which are full of people selling food, drinks etc. There was nothing there ... and nothing to indicate it was a station. Zac and Milka managed to get chicken, rice and chips for all back in town ... a very greasy birthday lunch which was supplemented by some beer and coke from the shop across the road. Beer, just off the shelf, was cold enough, but care was definitely needed when opening ... and effect of altitude.

A few more beers were acquired ... hasitly ... for the train trip only to find out that the sell beer on the train so don't permit BYOs. That didn't deter these three Aussie drinkers ... who had to hide their cans every time the Beer Police (aka guards) came through.

Writing this whilst on the train ... scenery continued to be spectacular, we've been served a meal ... fruit juice, black coffee, biscuits and butter and jam. YUM!! Another terrifiic birthday meal.

It's now dark, so we're unable to appreciate the scenery – movies are shown in Spanish, so might be time to catch some shut eye. I think we may be on the train until 1am ... time keeps creeping back, but the good thing is that we are booked in to a hotel for whatever time we arrive. Also have a tour booked to visit the salt flats in the morning .... and then a night bus for the long trio to La Paz .... which is even higher.

The adventure continues ... will try to upload whenever I can.

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